[Dilbertnomore]

In psyching myself up to check the condition and tension of my belts I came to wonder about these tools offered by 9XAUTO.COM.



Here are description and pictures of the critters:



"9xauto have converted and modified this wrench, to be used on 944 engine overhauls. We added two stainless steel 1/4 thick prongs. This tool will substitute two wrenches designed by the Porsche for this purpose. They are Balance Bolt Wrench, and the Sprocket Wrench.



   



Sprocket Wrench Duty

Our tool can hold the rotating balance shaft sprocket in place while the retaining bolts are worked on. Based on our experience of numerous 944-engine overhauls, nothing else beside the original Porsche tool or our tool, will hold the sprocket in its place, while 45nm force is applied to the retaining bolt. However, more force must be applied to brake the retaining bolt loose from the sprocket, since a Locktite 574 was used. Our tool will successfully perform the duties of the Porsche sprocket wrench. (serial number 9244-Picture (A) (<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/cool.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />.



   



Balance Bolt Wrench Duty



The Porsche wrench is flat and wide, and was designed to hold the tension pulley in place, while the retaining nut is ‘torqued’. Our tool will confirm to perform this operation as well. The retaining-nut usually over hangs its base therefore the wrench has to be flat and slips under the ‘torque’ nut. No conventionally sold metric key-wrench will clear the base for the retaining-nut installation. Picture ©. Two types of tension pulleys are used in 924-944 today. The metal tension pulley. Picture D 1 and the plastic tension pulley, Picture D 2. The plastic pulley is widely used, since it is cheaper. Unfortunately, the Porsche wrench dos not fit D 2's retainer base and must be cut away or made wider. After it is made wider, it becomes useless or (loose) for the good metal sprocket installation if required. Picture E. By comparison, our modified wrench can be adjusted to accommodate any size tension sprocket, thus rendering Porsche tool absolute. The retail value of the original Porsche's Balance Bolt wrench is $52.00 and the Sprocket Wrench is $24.00. Total is $74.00. Our toll sells for much less, and has a proven success record among enthusiasts and “shade-tree” mechanics.



As an incentive, we have bundled our wrench with a KRIKIT1 tension-measuring gauge. It is not as good as $475 Porsche tool. But with practice, it becomes as useful as the original. This gauge is used by the Goodyear, for their entire belt-tensioning measurement requirements. It works very simple. Pressing this gauge against the serpentine belt will produce a torque-wrench click as a signal of the completed measurement. Swing indicator, will show the corresponding tension in Lbs. or Kg’s. Porsche tool will show measurments in Newton Meters, when KRIKIT tool will measure in LBS or KG. You must convert NM to LB. As the result, all 944 users should set their belt using 35 LB on timing belt and 35-40 on the balance shaft. If balance belt will make too much nose, set it to 35 LB.



   



Examine the tentsion measuring tool. Click Here to learn more



944 Mechanic Sprocket Tool (Add to Cart) $68.00





   



Need to install flywheel lock by removing a starter?

TOO MUCH WORK!

Do not bother. Just use this gadget to stop the piston. Install your positive stop device into the spark plug hole and extend the bolt. It will stop piston from moving.

WARNING do not use the starter motor or you will put a hole through the piston. Can only be combined with a tool above. Not sold separately. (Add to Cart) $14.00"



What do you think?



Rick

'93 968 coupe

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[BruceWard]

Sorry guys, I missed the "gadget to stop the piston" on my first response. Using that thing is way too much of a risk. Removing the starter is easy. A flywheel lock is very very cheap compared to a piston.



I have a Krikit and have used it. I later compared it to a factory P9201 tension tool when retensioning the balance belt. The three of us that compared them could not get an accurate reading with the Krikit.



If you can borrow or rent a P9201 I suggest you use it.

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[frank moran]

[quote name='Dilbertnomore' date='Dec 5 2005, 05:57 PM']In psyching myself up to check the condition and tension of my belts I came to wonder about these tools offered by 9XAUTO.COM.



Here are description and pictures of the critters:



"9xauto have converted and modified this wrench, to be used on 944 engine overhauls. We added two stainless steel 1/4 thick prongs. This tool will substitute two wrenches designed by the Porsche for this purpose. They are Balance Bolt Wrench, and the Sprocket Wrench.







Sprocket Wrench Duty

Our tool can hold the rotating balance shaft sprocket in place while the retaining bolts are worked on. Based on our experience of numerous 944-engine overhauls, nothing else beside the original Porsche tool or our tool, will hold the sprocket in its place, while 45nm force is applied to the retaining bolt. However, more force must be applied to brake the retaining bolt loose from the sprocket, since a Locktite 574 was used. Our tool will successfully perform the duties of the Porsche sprocket wrench. (serial number 9244-Picture (A) (<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/cool.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />.







Balance Bolt Wrench Duty



The Porsche wrench is flat and wide, and was designed to hold the tension pulley in place, while the retaining nut is ‘torqued’. Our tool will confirm to perform this operation as well. The retaining-nut usually over hangs its base therefore the wrench has to be flat and slips under the ‘torque’ nut. No conventionally sold metric key-wrench will clear the base for the retaining-nut installation. Picture ©. Two types of tension pulleys are used in 924-944 today. The metal tension pulley. Picture D 1 and the plastic tension pulley, Picture D 2. The plastic pulley is widely used, since it is cheaper. Unfortunately, the Porsche wrench dos not fit D 2's retainer base and must be cut away or made wider. After it is made wider, it becomes useless or (loose) for the good metal sprocket installation if required. Picture E. By comparison, our modified wrench can be adjusted to accommodate any size tension sprocket, thus rendering Porsche tool absolute. The retail value of the original Porsche's Balance Bolt wrench is $52.00 and the Sprocket Wrench is $24.00. Total is $74.00. Our toll sells for much less, and has a proven success record among enthusiasts and “shade-tree” mechanics.



As an incentive, we have bundled our wrench with a KRIKIT1 tension-measuring gauge. It is not as good as $475 Porsche tool. But with practice, it becomes as useful as the original. This gauge is used by the Goodyear, for their entire belt-tensioning measurement requirements. It works very simple. Pressing this gauge against the serpentine belt will produce a torque-wrench click as a signal of the completed measurement. Swing indicator, will show the corresponding tension in Lbs. or Kg’s. Porsche tool will show measurments in Newton Meters, when KRIKIT tool will measure in LBS or KG. You must convert NM to LB. As the result, all 944 users should set their belt using 35 LB on timing belt and 35-40 on the balance shaft. If balance belt will make too much nose, set it to 35 LB.







Examine the tentsion measuring tool. Click Here to learn more



944 Mechanic Sprocket Tool (Add to Cart) $68.00





Need to install flywheel lock by removing a starter?

TOO MUCH WORK!

Do not bother. Just use this gadget to stop the piston. Install your positive stop device into the spark plug hole and extend the bolt. It will stop piston from moving.

WARNING do not use the starter motor or you will put a hole through the piston. Can only be combined with a tool above. Not sold separately. (Add to Cart) $14.00"



What do you think?



Rick

'93 968 coupe

[right][post="13117"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



I would not use the piston locking tool they are selling, that looks like a disaster waiting to happen.. I will be doing belts and rollers this week and I don't think I'll need any of the above other then a flywheel lock. I'll let you know. I agree sometimes the right tool makes the job a lot easier, but you have to evaluate the cost effectivness of buying the items.

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[orphanowner]

Both the piston lock tool and the belt gauge are a joke. No way would I want to subject the piston to a blunt object or the rod bearings to any force without oil pressure while I broke away 160 ft lbs of torque on the crank bolt! A hundred bucks is not a lot of money in the scheme of Porsche maintenance. If you later sell the car, you can probably sell the tool on eBay for $60.



If you've ever seen the legitimate P9201 belt gauge, you'll understand why the Krickit is no substitute. The seller even acknowledges that the Kricket is not as good as the P9201 and you may have to fiddle with the belt adjustment if the belt makes too much noise! Might as well just set the belt tension with a pocket fish scale, or simply by thumb pressure! If I absolutely couldn’t get my hands on a belt gauge, I’d do all my repairs and find a friendly Porsche shop to check the balance belt tension for me. In my experience you can be a little off on the balance belt tension and not suffer for it. If it's little loud until the car is fully warmed up and then quiets down, it's darn close to being set correctly. The timing belt is the critical one and you don't need the belt gauge for the cam belt on this car.



You can pretty much do the belts without the pin spanner and the 27 mm flat wrench. Other tools will work.



As expensive as the parts for this engine are, I’d not experiment with anything related to the valve train.

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[apex]

Hi Rick - have you tried looking here?



Bruce Arnn makes tools for the 944/968 cars. I just noticed he has a new tension tool - he was a fan of the Krikit for a long time but obviously felt the need to create something better. I've never tried his tools myself - but they look good.



I gotta agree I would be scared to deploy the piston-puncher on my car.

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[Dano]

Ok, so it's my turn to attempt the timing / balance belt replacement. My original intent was to replace the belts and rollers and a number hoses but I think the water pump might be a good idea, and possibly seals?



So here are my questions...



Car Info:

1992 968 Cab, 63k, 6-speed, assembled (as opposed to a disassembled state with parts visable)



1) Should I replace the water pump while I'm in there?



1a) If Yes, what else is needed, parts wise, for the water pump besides the actual unit and pieces I already have listed below?



2) Should I replace some seals (crank, cams, or other? No known leaks currently)?



3) What specialty tools are really needed? (the posts in this thread really only say what tools not to use)



3a) 27mm thin wrench (aka Roller wrench?), Pin wrench, flywheel lock, belt tensioner?



3b) ArnnWorx website specifically says his flywheel lock won't work on Dual Mass Flywheels and the threads state the Krikit tool is pretty useless so that means on the 944/951/968 "Full Kit" two out of the four tools are useless. And I don't see any other alternative than the krikit tool for tensioning (besides factory Porsche tool).



3c) Can I get away without a belt tensioner if I do the job by hand and then take it to Porsche to adjust?



3d) Do boths belts "require" tensioning? Or is it just the balance belt and the auto adjuster takes care of the timing belt?



4) Any other "while you're in there" suggestions?



Lastly, I'd like to try to avoid days/weeks down (i.e because I didn't realize I was going to need this or that) once I've torn this thing apart. Especially being that everything has to be ordered and shipped. So... I'm trying to get it all ordered and in hand before starting the job.





Here are the parts I've ordered and have in hand so far:

(1) 944.105.323.00 - Timing Belt

(1) 944.102.219.04 - Balance Shaft Belt

(1) 944.102.025.07 - Balance Shaft Tensioner

(1) 944.105.241.02 - Timing Belt Roller

(1) 944.105.241.03 - Timing Belt Roller on Water Pump

(1) 944.102.277.06 - Tensioner Roller for Balance Shaft Belt

(1) 944.105.631.10 - Tensioner Roller for Camshaft Timing Belt

(1) 944.105.213.01 - Guide Plate

(2) 999.084.092.02 - Guide Plate Lock Nuts



Other misc. parts I ordered to do while doing the belt job:

(1) 944.106.129.05 - Thermostat + seal

(1) 951.606.481.00 - Thermoswitch

(1) 900.042.025.01 - Thermostat Snap Ring

(1) 900.234.160.00 - Thermostat Shim

(1) 951.106.155.00 - Thermostat Sealing Ring

(1) 999.707.283.40 - Round Seal (in pump)

(1) 944.106.132.12 - Water pump gasket

(x) A boat load of rubber hoses





As always, TIA!



-Dan

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[Tom in Austin]

I actually have a sprocket wrench that I used once and will part with for $40 (I think that's what I paid, but it's been a couple years). Also have a man trans flywheel lock (specific to 968 b/c of the DMF) that I paid $68 for. If you want both, let's say $100 plus shipping to the first taker (send a PM) and you're off to the races.



I did not figure out the need for the balance bolt wrench. I did just fine using a clunky Craftsman adjustable.



My thoughts on the rest:



1. Yes, for God's sake, do everything while you have it all apart. Definitely the water pump, thermostat, ALL rollers. Re-doing it all for something you skipped the first time would make me crazy



2. I removed the radiator and was very glad to have the extra working room in front. It's pretty easy while you have the coolant drained out



3. Compress the tensioner gradually as the instructions say. You have a wait a minute or so between turns of the vise (or C-clamp) to let the oil inside make it through the orifice. Can't hurry it any faster than that



4. If your new cam belt doesn't fall exactly on a cam gear tooth, turn the cam gear counter clockwise



5. I had no luck at all using either the P9201 or the Kriket. My advice would be to just snug up the balance belt so it's loose but not flopping around and take it to your mechanic for an adjustment. Mine charged me about $100 to do this.



There's only one significant risk with the balance belt ... if it's so far out of adjustment that it breaks (insanely tight) or flies off the rollers (too loose), it could get caught in the timing belt and then you'd be screwed. Otherwise, the worst you get is a whining noise, and possibly, some extra vibration from the balance system not working exactly right. The critical adjustment is the timing belt, and we, unlike 944 and 928 owners, have the lovely self-adjusting tensioner device to take care of that for us. In other words, we have a free pass from all the folklore and hysteria over the 'Porsche belt adjustment'. Personally, I doubt I could ever get the same reading twice with the P9201, and I spent a lot time trying to figure it out.



(btw, I'm getting ready to retrofit my 928 engine with an aftermarket self-adjusting tensioner so won't need to measure a Porsche belt adjustment ever again)



Good luck to you and congratulations on joining the ranks of Porsche timing belt replacers!

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[Dano]

Tom,



Thanks for the info. I feel better already. I think I was getting more confused the more I read. With all the talk of 944 pre this... post that... except if you've got those...etc, etc... it began to make me crazy.



No offense to you Tom but before I commit to buying tools I should at least ask the question to the forum:



Is there anyone in Phoenix that would either be willing to loan me their tools or rent me their tools?



Just looking for the pin wrench (for the balance gears), flywheel lock (for manual / DMF), and possibly the 27mm thin wrench. I'm on a tight budget as I don't have a job at the moment and won't start my new one for at least another week or so. If there is, it would seriously help me out.



Again, thanks in advance!



-Dan

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[doster]

In your situation Dano you might want to do an inspection and wait till you have what you need.

Find TDC check the marks and belts, You can adjust the balance belt with regular hand tools

and if you don't have any leaks your in good shape. everything you listed is a big job the first time around.

call jason at paragon he has all the tools you'll need

Good luck

Doug

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[Dano]

[quote name='doster' post='43404' date='Nov 9 2007, 09:55 PM']In your situation Dano you might want to do an inspection and wait till you have what you need.

Find TDC check the marks and belts, You can adjust the balance belt with regular hand tools

and if you don't have any leaks your in good shape. everything you listed is a big job the first time around.

call jason at paragon he has all the tools you'll need

Good luck

Doug[/quote]



Thanks for the tips! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='Dano' post='43349' date='Nov 8 2007, 09:21 PM']Ok, so it's my turn to attempt the timing / balance belt replacement. My original intent was to replace the belts and rollers and a number hoses but I think the water pump might be a good idea, and possibly seals?



So here are my questions...



Car Info:

1992 968 Cab, 63k, 6-speed, assembled (as opposed to a disassembled state with parts visable)



1) Should I replace the water pump while I'm in there?



1a) If Yes, what else is needed, parts wise, for the water pump besides the actual unit and pieces I already have listed below?



2) Should I replace some seals (crank, cams, or other? No known leaks currently)?



3) What specialty tools are really needed? (the posts in this thread really only say what tools not to use)



3a) 27mm thin wrench (aka Roller wrench?), Pin wrench, flywheel lock, belt tensioner?



3b) ArnnWorx website specifically says his flywheel lock won't work on Dual Mass Flywheels and the threads state the Krikit tool is pretty useless so that means on the 944/951/968 "Full Kit" two out of the four tools are useless. And I don't see any other alternative than the krikit tool for tensioning (besides factory Porsche tool).



3c) Can I get away without a belt tensioner if I do the job by hand and then take it to Porsche to adjust?



3d) Do boths belts "require" tensioning? Or is it just the balance belt and the auto adjuster takes care of the timing belt?



4) Any other "while you're in there" suggestions?



Lastly, I'd like to try to avoid days/weeks down (i.e because I didn't realize I was going to need this or that) once I've torn this thing apart. Especially being that everything has to be ordered and shipped. So... I'm trying to get it all ordered and in hand before starting the job.

Here are the parts I've ordered and have in hand so far:

(1) 944.105.323.00 - Timing Belt

(1) 944.102.219.04 - Balance Shaft Belt

(1) 944.102.025.07 - Balance Shaft Tensioner

(1) 944.105.241.02 - Timing Belt Roller

(1) 944.105.241.03 - Timing Belt Roller on Water Pump

(1) 944.102.277.06 - Tensioner Roller for Balance Shaft Belt

(1) 944.105.631.10 - Tensioner Roller for Camshaft Timing Belt

(1) 944.105.213.01 - Guide Plate

(2) 999.084.092.02 - Guide Plate Lock Nuts



Other misc. parts I ordered to do while doing the belt job:

(1) 944.106.129.05 - Thermostat + seal

(1) 951.606.481.00 - Thermoswitch

(1) 900.042.025.01 - Thermostat Snap Ring

(1) 900.234.160.00 - Thermostat Shim

(1) 951.106.155.00 - Thermostat Sealing Ring

(1) 999.707.283.40 - Round Seal (in pump)

(1) 944.106.132.12 - Water pump gasket

(x) A boat load of rubber hoses

As always, TIA!



-Dan[/quote]



Dan,



Thanks for the detailed list; this will help me when I do my belts soon. Where did you buy your rollers? I figure the prime candidates are Paragon, Pelican, or Sunset, but, as I've mentioned in another post, I noticed that Gates, who makes the belts, also makes rollers. Anybody have any experience with Gates rollers? Does it actually make a lot of difference where you buy the rollers and who makes them?



Also, did you buy a new or refurbished water pump? Thanks.

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[Scott Collins]

Hey Dan,



Having done this job twice, I can say it's one of those jobs that takes some time and planning. Looks like

you have a good list, and the presence of mind to ask lots of questions.



I don't see the oil seals on your list (maybe I missed them) for the upper and lower balance shafts and

the main crankshaft seal on the front of the motor. Doing these is a must for sure. They lose it over time, and the lower balance shaft seal tends to go before the others, primarily because it is closest to the exhaust and the heat it throws off. If you have any oil leaking out, leaving a spot on the ground, immediately suspect that lower seal and check it by pulling off the belt covers and getting a good look. If oil slings all around and on your belts, it won't be long before "boink" <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/huh.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> there goes t-belt and valves. Don't ask me how I know this.... <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/dry.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



I have used Paragon, and they made sure that I had everything I needed, including the small round seal that slides over the main crank shaft, and the two superthin clear seals that slide over the balance shafts after you remove the balance shaft seals and sprockets. They are so small you can throw them out by accident when

you unpack your stuff.



Sorry to be so long winded. Good luck and don't hesitate to drop a PM. Happy to exchange phone #'s

to answer any questions when you are under the car and can't make your next move without some

validation.



Cheers!



-Scott

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='Scott Collins' post='46463' date='Jan 27 2008, 08:15 PM']Hey Dan,



Having done this job twice, I can say it's one of those jobs that takes some time and planning. Looks like

you have a good list, and the presence of mind to ask lots of questions.



I don't see the oil seals on your list (maybe I missed them) for the upper and lower balance shafts and

the main crankshaft seal on the front of the motor. Doing these is a must for sure. They lose it over time, and the lower balance shaft seal tends to go before the others, primarily because it is closest to the exhaust and the heat it throws off. If you have any oil leaking out, leaving a spot on the ground, immediately suspect that lower seal and check it by pulling off the belt covers and getting a good look. If oil slings all around and on your belts, it won't be long before "boink" <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/huh.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> there goes t-belt and valves. Don't ask me how I know this.... <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/dry.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



-Scott[/quote]



How difficult is it to replace the balance shaft seals? Do the balance shafts have to come out to replace the seals? Somehow, I've had the impression that replacing these seals is a very big job, so I was putting it off to a very-distant full engine rebuild, but maybe I was mistaken about how extensive a job this is. I have a very small leak coming from my lower balance shaft belt front housing. Thanks for the info.

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[Ryan]

Cloud, I will let you know how big this job is soon enough. Parts are ordered. Balance shafts do not have to come out. Only the front of the housings are removed and there is a seal; bushing; O ring and washer to replace on each. Of course you have to strip the front of the engine to bare block. I am sure there will be some blood spilled and words said.

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[Cloud9...68]

Ryan,



Thanks; looking forward to hearing how it goes. Hopefully, once the belts are off, removing the balance shaft housings isn't too much more work. I'm planning to do the water pump and thermostat anyway, so hopefully I can take care of the very small but nonetheless annoying leak(s) coming from the balance shaft seal(s).

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[Cloud9...68]

OK, I've ordered all the parts I need for the job from Jason at Paragon, including belts, all rollers, timing belt tensioner, timing belt tensioner retaining pin (not sure exactly what it's called), water pump & gasket, thermostat & gasket, and front seal kit. I know several people have either recently done or are planning to do the full belt job, and I have a couple of questions. I'm not worried about the belt replacement - I replaced just my balance shaft belt a couple of years ago, and found that job to be quite simple - just R & R. But as for the pump and the seals:



- How difficult is it in general to get the pump off without stripping the bolts? I plan to soak mine overnight with PB Catalyst penetrant, and proceed very carefully from there, but I'm curious as to how common it is for the bolts to strip.



- How difficult is it to replace the front seals? My front seal kit didn't arrive with my shipment - I'll call Paragon in the morning to get this straightened out - so I don't even know exactly what the kit contains. I assume it's part number 944.101.000.01-968. I know it contains the seals and races for the two balance shaft belts, but what else? It's hard to tell from the picture on Paragon's site, since I've never done this job before. Anyway, are any special tools needed to replace the seals? I read through the description on Clark's garage, and didn't see anything, but of course the description was for a 944. The answer to this question will tip the scales to whether I do this job myself, or take it to someone.



- Would you guys also recommend replacing the front crank seal (part # 999.113.331.40, a very reasonable $11.41) and the oil pump sleeve (part $944.107.161.02, $35.45)? Mine isn't leaking, so I'm a little concerned about creating a problem where I don't currently have one.



Finally, still no luck finding a flywheel lock to borrow locally (Austin, TX). Anybody out there who could loan me one? Paragon sells them for about $84, which really isn't too bad, so I may go ahead and buy one (and then loan it out to anybody on this site who would need to borrow it). Thanks!

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[Scott Collins]

The balance shaft seals are same as 944, and getting those out can be a PITA. Upper and lower are differenct part numbers. Keep that in mind.... You will need

a heavy duty pic to slide in between and shaft and seal and just start pulling, carefully. I used a set of all metal pics, then clamped down on the handle (with "monster truck" force) with a pair of vice grips to really dig in. Two things contribute to the profanity you will be tempted to let loose with:



1. Position of lower seal (one closest to exhaust manifold) make for some awkward pulling. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/mad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

They say that's the seal most prone to failure due to the constant high heat of the nearby exhaust.



2. Careful not to scratch the shafts or the inside of the housing with a sharp metal object that will have a tendency to suddenly let go, with or without the seal coming out. Any scratches are likely to create a channel for oil to leak. Then, oil will gradually soak the belts, and <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/ohmy.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> , then <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/mad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> , then <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> .



I always did all of the front seals, including the main crank. It's a "while you're in there" kind of thing. You'll need a large socket to tap that one in.



Arnnworx.com is a good site for custom tools for this job, and DIY's are readily available here, or at

Clarks-garage.com.



If you need the car on Monday morning , and it's your first time doing this, do yourself a favor and start Friday right after work. Good luck. Also, don't forget to put all of the pulleys back on the main crank before re-torquing that bolt. Don't ask me how I know this.... <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/blink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Cheers!



-Scott

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[rxter]

orphan I can't even get through your posts with that avatar...

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[Cloud9...68]

Scott,



Thanks for the info - your post was VERY helpful. My car isn't a daily driver, so I won't be under any time pressure to have the car running to get me to work on Monday. A few follow-up questions:



- Jason at Paragon feels strongly that I should replace the races while I do the balance shaft seals. I'm embarassed to ask, but what exactly are these? They sound like parts of some bearings, but if so, I don't see how they could contribute to leaks. Did you replace your races? If so, how hard was it to do?



- Other than the flywheel lock, and picks and such, did you you any other "special" tools on any part of the job?



- Finally (I hope), did you replace the oil pump sleeve along with the crank seal? And how hard is it to get the crank seal out? Again, I'm concerned that if it's really difficuly to pry out, I may damage something (e.g. gouging the shaft the the seal goes around) when I don't currently have a problem.



Thanks again!

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[Ryan]

Cloud, check out the DIY at the arnnworx.com site. He shows using a drywall screw as a seal puller and other helpful hints and pictures.



I ran into a problem this past weekend stripping out the 2 hexhead screws that hold the bottom belt guide below the crank pullys. I can't get the stupid plastic belt cage off without those removed. Also the cheap pin wrench did not work on the b/s pully. Ordered a good one from bruce arnn that should be here for this weekends festivaties.



If everything goes well this would not be a bad job. In my case it is a PITA.

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