[mick968]

Just noticed temp gauge spending more time in the upper half of acceptable range(from half to 3/4 range).Does not overheat or climb past just below the 3/4 mark and cooling fans come on and temp comes back down.In past the only time it acted like this would be very hot outside temp. and A/C on.About a month ago I had opposite scenario(gauge) itself would not show above 1/4 range and was jumping around(thought it was due to cold and sending unit?Always something(17 yr old car)(what do I expect).Could it be first signs of thermostat wacking out?I was hoping it was (gauge) related but would the cooling fans kick on due to false signal?Any thoughts?

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[RPM]

That gauge will make you crazy. It is very sensitive and moves within a small temperature range (Flash will probably know the exact temps...). I have had to learn to ignore the dumb thing, particularly in the spring and fall when the ambient temp is warm but I am not running the AC and extra fan.

Now having said that, obviously the engine temp is serious stuff and the gauge bears watching as it can be an early detector of something going really wrong. That is the very reason it is so frustrating.

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[Johannvb]

I had the same issue with my car a couple of months ago. The temp guage would go up to almost 3/4 when I was sitting in traffic. The fans were comming on when the guage was somewhere around 1/3 but the temperature didn't come down fast enough for me to feel secure. I replaced the thermostat and the problem is now gone. My gauge is mostly on or just above the 1/3 line after the replacement.

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[mick968]

Come to think of it,I replaced H2O pump(last spring?) and thermostat.Mine too, usually runs around the 1/3 line or so.Gauges are antiquated and with mileage(90,000 ish) and age could be culprit.But on flip side don't want to ignore(beginning symptoms of head gasket)?Coolant level appears normal.Runs great.Always does.It's been awesom car.Thanks for feedback.

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[mick968]

More Hot Topic-yesterday(stupid hot in St.louis)I was in rush hr(usually avoid but) and with AC on my temp gauge got precariously close to Red area before I noticed(shut off AC) and even after I started moving at speed it(temp) stayed close to 2/3 line.When I got home and shut off the fans ran for a short time and shut off.This morning(not as hot yet) drove it and it seemed normal(1/3-1/2) most of time.One detail to add is I have front nose bra on it(cause some of my cooling issue?).Don't know what real train of thought is on (bras).Coolant is full.Runs great.Is this a(it was just f#$%ing hot out or is anyone else in a hot climate with similar(or not )issues?

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[banditsc]

I can run with the A/C on with 100 degree temps and it will be just a tick above the first white mark. If I start driving hard in that condition it will creep up between the white marks, but settle back down when I drop the revs. You might need to check for air in the system, try bleeding it. Also might want to try a different rad cap on there.

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[mick968]

<!--quoteo(post=74191:date=Jun 18 2009, 12:26 PM:name=banditsc)-->QUOTE (banditsc @ Jun 18 2009, 12:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->I can run with the A/C on with 100 degree temps and it will be just a tick above the first white mark. If I start driving hard in that condition it will creep up between the white marks, but settle back down when I drop the revs. You might need to check for air in the system, try bleeding it. Also might want to try a different rad cap on there.

Don't want to sound stupid here but where is the bleed valve and what is proper tecnique in doing so.I used to do stuff like that on my 944's but this unit has been so trouble free(and I have got older and would rather be playing golf instead of being mechanically intimate with my vehicle).I might give it a go when I get home.Expansion tank is full(more full than I remember) but it was in shop (recent service/oil change) and they may have topped it off.It looked dirty through reservoir but I took off lid and it looks like anti freeze to me.Any guidance would be helpful.Thanks.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

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[banditsc]

Is there any black residue in the reservoir or floating in the coolant?

To bleed the system, get the front end a little higher then the back, drive it up on some boards or something, or on a hill. Turn the heat on full and fire up the car. Locate the bleeder bolts, it's on the coolant neck on the top of the motor, where the upper coolant hose attach's to. There should be a 12mm bolt there, place some rags around it and crack the bolt. You should eventually start seeing some bubbles, keep bleeding till the bubbles stop.

I see you have a 92, so it maybe the early one with the hidden bleed screw. I'll let someone with experience on a early car chime in on that.

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[mick968]

<!--quoteo(post=74202:date=Jun 18 2009, 01:00 PM:name=banditsc)-->QUOTE (banditsc @ Jun 18 2009, 01:00 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Is there any black residue in the reservoir or floating in the coolant?

To bleed the system, get the front end a little higher then the back, drive it up on some boards or something, or on a hill. Turn the heat on full and fire up the car. Locate the bleeder bolts, it's on the coolant neck on the top of the motor, where the upper coolant hose attach's to. There should be a 12mm bolt there, place some rags around it and crack the bolt. You should eventually start seeing some bubbles, keep bleeding till the bubbles stop.

I see you have a 92, so it maybe the early one with the hidden bleed screw. I'll let someone with experience on a early car chime in on that.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Of course I have the one with the hidden something. As far as (oil) in the coolant it looked clear to me. Is there any rule of thumb for(unscrewing) the expansion tank cap (engine on or off?). I guess I will drop off at shop next week just to give it the go over.

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[banditsc]

You can unscrew the cap with the engine running as long as the coolant isn't hot and pressurized. If the cap is hot to the touch, then use caution and a rag over the cap.

I think the hiddent bleeder is farther back on the neck, under the vanity cover. I think there was a pic of it in a thread on here.

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[mick968]

<!--quoteo(post=74209:date=Jun 18 2009, 02:52 PM:name=banditsc)-->QUOTE (banditsc @ Jun 18 2009, 02:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->You can unscrew the cap with the engine running as long as the coolant isn't hot and pressurized. If the cap is hot to the touch, then use caution and a rag over the cap.

I think the hiddent bleeder is farther back on the neck, under the vanity cover. I think there was a pic of it in a thread on here.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->


How about unscrewing it while cold and engine off? Can I put it back on cold or do I need to start the motor(so no air in system?).

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[banditsc]

You can put it back on cold, not a problem. If your going to be adding fluid when the bottle is really low, you would want to crack the bleeder.

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[Mark]

After having some crazy temp gauge issues, the first thing i would recommend is find out if it really is as hot as the gauge shows. Mine was not and turn out to be wiring issues. So check your grounds as well. Mine was fixed by put in the super duper power cables by one of our sponsors, sponsor name has changed and the top of the page does not show in my browser so look up top. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

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[flash]

it's still the same name - "Higher Connections" - the button is on the home page and the index page

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