i am just stunned that this is still a topic. i got an email telling me about it, and it just boggles my mind.
while it is true that heat is the biggest enemy on mods like this, it is not nearly as bad as what is being touted here. i did EXTENSIVE testing on this, with multiple temperature probes, in multiple locations, in multiple driving conditions. the intake temp is the same as the engine bay temp while sitting still, or at extremely low speeds. as long as you are rolling at a speed of about 20mph or more, the intake temp is essentially ambient. some testing showed temps actually went down. recovery is also only about 1 second. this makes temperature relatively a non-issue. if you are experiencing lag or power loss, the problem is likely elsewhere (like low octane fuel, which would cause the ECU to retard timing, costing a lot of power) the wrong spark plugs can also affect this.
the key to the airbox mod working best is to use the early trim piece that closes off the entry point from the rest of the engine bay. also, you have to make sure that ALL intake entry air is coming from a cool location. the snorkel works against you. fluted port rings (no square edges) are the best here, and deleting the snorkel.
also, just as a math note, relative to intake temperature, power increases and decreases on a normally aspirated engine are only 1-2hp for each 10 degrees, not 10-20.
again, read the article, and the thread that relates to it.
just as a side note, turbo cars use intercoolers because the temps are increased by anywhere from 30-100 degrees under boost, depending on boost level. it is a whole different world. it's like saying covid is like the flu because you get a fever with both. (sorry - couldn't help myself there)
we now return you to your regularly scheduled programming
94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating
www.968forums.com
"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."