[badberry68]

I am planning on installing my AJS steering wheel myself in the near future. I have been researching everyting on 968.net. and I have found some very useful info. The only part that is confusing me is a step that requires loosening or removing a 8mm bolt and nut holding a swich assembly to the steering colum. Does this swich assembly just need to be moved or is it removed or replaced? Also i ordered the horn contact pn 928-652-104-00, I am assuming that is still the preferred part for the horn contact. Any help would be appreciated. Bob Blackwell, if you are listening, many of the threads that I referenced were yours.

Thanks for any help.

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[Anchorman]

The switch assembly you're describing is the one that contains the levers (etc.) for the cruise control, windshield wipers, and directional signal/high beams. I'm sure you're not replacing that assembly with anything else, so you must need to loosen it for repositioning.



When I changed my steering wheel to a 996 wheel, I did not have to move the switch assembly, but I did have to remove and replace it when I replaced my dashboard last summer.

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[bob blackwell]

Anchorman is right, it is the bolt and nut that retains the cruise control switch, etc. in position. After I installed the AJS wheel the turn signal would not self-cancel and I had to loosen the bolt and nut to reposition the switch assembly closer to the wheel and engage the self-cancel trigger. It wasn't difficult once you found where the nut and bolt are located. good luck, Bob Blackwell.

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[rustech]

...and yes, that is the horn contact part number that is used for non-airbag steering wheels.

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[badberry68]

Cool, I will give it my best shot this weekend. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/unsure.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Anchorman]

The bolt in question is through a bracket that holds the switch assembly around the steering column. IIRC, the bolt is under the column, angled so that the head of the bolt is pointing towards the center console. Since you will have removed the steering wheel, the plastic cover over the clockspring mechanism, and the clockspring mechanism itself, the bolt should then be quite accessible.

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[badberry68]

[quote name='Anchorman' post='33063' date='Mar 23 2007, 05:52 AM']The bolt in question is through a bracket that holds the switch assembly around the steering column. IIRC, the bolt is under the column, angled so that the head of the bolt is pointing towards the center console. Since you will have removed the steering wheel, the plastic cover over the clockspring mechanism, and the clockspring mechanism itself, the bolt should then be quite accessible.[/quote]



Pardon my ignorance... <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/huh.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> .. I have no clue what a clockspring is, I guess I will find out soon enough. I am assuming springs are'nt going to fly everywhere when I pull this thing.

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[rustech]

The clock spring mech Anchorman is referring to is the Airbag/Horn unit that you will be replacing with the simple 928 part. It is a contained unit. You know how not to trigger the airbag light when doing all of this, right?

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[badberry68]

[quote name='rustech' post='33080' date='Mar 23 2007, 10:24 AM']The clock spring mech Anchorman is referring to is the Airbag/Horn unit that you will be replacing with the simple 928 part. It is a contained unit. You know how not to trigger the airbag light when doing all of this, right?[/quote]



I think I am supposed to disconect the battery for 2 hours before I start as well as either cut a black and white wire or use that 2 olm resistor and plug it into an orange connector??? Actually I don't know, how do you avoid triggering the light in the first place?

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[unknown4u]

Read the topic of resetting the airbaglight. If you have triggered it.

If you disconnect the airbag, and turn on the ignition before installing the resistor you will get faultcode 30 and a triggered light.



It is possible to reset it with a small interface and a laptop.

You must read the topic I wrote.

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[rustech]

The two methods you mentioned are the only ways to possibly avoid it, and even they aren't guaranteed.

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[badberry68]

O.K. I have removed my steering wheel and I have a few questions. First, the three wires that are connected to the circular piece ( I don't know what it is called but it is pictured), I assume two of those have to do with the airbag and one for the horn. What should I do with these wires? Are the two that went to the airbag the ones that I connect the resistor to? Second, the adaptor hub is not circular and therefore will not fit inside the trim piece pictured. Should I grind the lip off of the hub or enlarge the hole in the plastic trim piece?         [attachment=3614:attachm

ent]        



This is the AJS wheel BTW, thanks for any help.

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[SILVY968]

Go to the DIY section.

search " 930s steering wheel installation.

You will find this .pdf file "Installation instructions are attached to this post. Attached File 930swheel.pdf ( 287.47k ) "

Download and print.

Excellent write-up.

It answers all of your questions, and more.

Brian

P.S. when I did mine I found that if you trim off a bit off the feet that are on the plastic trim piece it moves it away from the wheel which makes it clear and not rub.

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[badberry68]

[quote name='SILVY968' post='33223' date='Mar 25 2007, 03:27 PM']Go to the DIY section.

search " 930s steering wheel installation.

You will find this .pdf file "Installation instructions are attached to this post. Attached File 930swheel.pdf ( 287.47k ) "

Download and print.

Excellent write-up.

It answers all of your questions, and more.

Brian

P.S. when I did mine I found that if you trim off a bit off the feet that are on the plastic trim piece it moves it away from the wheel which makes it clear and not rub.[/quote]



Thanks, got it...looks great <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/cool.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> I am going to look for the resistor tomorrow to finish up! Once I found the connectors under the dash, everything made sense. Thanks for the tip on the trim piece, it barely rubs so that should work.

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[SILVY968]

If you can not find the correct value, 2 resistors in parallel are additive; just make them both the same current rate.

Make sure to fold the leads back so that they are double thick when you shove them into the connector. If you do not they will wiggle away for a second and turn on the airbag RED LIGHT.

It can only be turned off with a BOSCH HAMMER which will involve a trip to a Porsche dealer or mechanic.



Brian

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[jaap]

[quote name='SILVY968' post='33235' date='Mar 26 2007, 04:23 AM']If you can not find the correct value, 2 resistors in parallel are additive; just make them both the same current rate.





Brian[/quote]



Brian, probably just a typo but two resistors in series are additive and two equal resistors in parallel will give you half the resistor value.



Jaap

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[Anchorman]

Re the BOSCH HAMMER comment - follow this thread http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=3684 as it looks like this is an alternative. I'm working on it with the superb guidance of unknown4u (Ritchie).

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[badberry68]

[quote name='jaap' post='33240' date='Mar 26 2007, 12:28 AM']Brian, probably just a typo but two resistors in series are additive and two equal resistors in parallel will give you half the resistor value.



Jaap[/quote]



I could'nt believe the exact instructions were right here on this site, I never thought to look. The 968 Engineering instructions were so easy to follow, great pictures too.



Does your local Rado Shack carry resistors? That is where I was going to try after work today. I do not plan to go back to stock so should I solder the connection? If the light goes on anyway, I guess I will be real interested in the latest topic on this.

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[Anchorman]

Your local Radio Shack should have what you need. And, leaving sufficient "pig tail" length in case you need to make any changes, you should solder.

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[SILVY968]

[quote name='jaap' post='33240' date='Mar 26 2007, 12:28 AM']Brian, probably just a typo but two resistors in series are additive and two equal resistors in parallel will give you half the resistor value.



Jaap[/quote]





You are correct. Must have been beyond my capacity to get that one correct, get it?





[quote name='Anchorman' post='33261' date='Mar 26 2007, 09:19 AM']Your local Radio Shack should have what you need. And, leaving sufficient "pig tail" length in case you need to make any changes, you should solder.[/quote]

Good luck with Radio Shack. They have so few parts now. Times have changed. I had to get mine at a surplus electronics store.

Brian

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