[memphoman]

This is very frustrating. I had this creaking sound in the front driver's side suspension. We determined it was the strut. New struts in, sound gone. . .until this past week. The sound has returned. It's a creaking noise bordering a popping noise. Noticeable when front wheel hits a bump especially when turning to the right and hitting bumbs, etc. I just checked for wheel bearing, and I could not make it wiggle. Thoughts?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rustech]

I've heard a lot of people start getting weird noises once the sway bar bushings begin to go. Though it is most often the passanger side, give the drivers side bushings a look. Also check to see if the bar has walked over to one side.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Silver BLT]

Sounds like the sway bar bushings to me also, I second Rustechs post. I had a Capri (German one) that made the same clunking poping noise as you describe, almost as bad as a bad U joint going out. I replaced the bushings and Voila! No more creak, clunk, plop noise.

Silver BLT

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Brett968]

I'll third the sway bar bushings as the culprit.



Brett

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[apex]

Interesting thread - I get a noticeable popping noise from the front with the steering almost locked one side or the other with car moving - I mostly hear it backing up but also a little bit when moving forward. Seems to happen mostly after the car has been parked for a while. My struts are new so the sway bar bushing suggestion has my attention. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/dry.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Question: can you tell a sway bar bushing is "bad" by visual inspection? I've had the entire sway bar off recently and both bushings seemed fine as far as I could tell - no cracks or other deformities. The car did have a PS fluid leak for a number of months - and I've heard that PS fluid will compromise the passenger side bushing - but what exactly happens to it?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[memphoman]

Same with me apex. It's more notieable when the whell is turned tight. That will be my first course of action. I'll let you know how it goes. To repeat apex's question, can you tell from visual inspection? Thanks everyone.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[bob blackwell]

Yes, visual inspection will reveal a Sway Bar Bushing which has been degraded by power steering fluid (or other petroleum product) leak. The bushing gets soft and swells up to the extent that it will be forced out of the retaining bracket. Very apparent when compared to the other side bushing which has not been damaged. Similar noises will be made by CV joints but will come from the rear of the car of course. Good luck, Bob Blackwell.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[memphoman]

Thanks Bob. Is this an easy fix, or should I plan on a mechanic getting involved? Anyone have pictures of this event? <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/unsure.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

it's a pretty easy fix if the source of the problem has been resolved - if you have had leakage on there, you really need to address that first or you will have the problem reoccur



after that, replacing the bushing is pretty easy, though you will need to lift the car up on both front corners and release the preload from the swaybar - this means dropping the lower belly pan, and disconnecting the swaybar from both ends - not too bad, especially if you use a floor jack to lift up a bit on one control arm to release the preload on the link

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[memphoman]

Sorry about the doble reply. Dumb question. Is the Sway bar the same as the stablizer? <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/unsure.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

stabilizer bar, anti roll bar, sway bar, anti sway bar - different names for the same part - it's that big bar that runs from one control arm to the other, is attached at the center by 2 bushings and at the ends by a bushing and a link to the control arm



you need to know what size you have before replacing the center bushings - factory sizes are 26mm (normal) and 30mm (M030) - i believe the end bushings are the same for both size bars, but better check to be sure



you can permanently resolve this, and gain some improved handling, by changing the material to delrin, but more mods will be required to prevent them from making noise - let me know if you opt for this route - i am preparing a DIY for the mods now

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[memphoman]

Old subject, new twist. Greasing the sway bushings helped, but there was another knocking/creaking sound that persisted, especially when making hard right turns and hitting a bump (such as entering a driveway, etc). It was the strut brace hitting the variocam. Go figure. So if you have one, and you have this noise, then this may be what you're experiencing.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

try loosening the vanity cover and then shifting it toward the driver side and then snugging it back down - this may give you a bit more clearance



are your motor mounts ok? - it shouldn't be moving aroung that much

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[memphoman]

I had it thouroughly checked out, and they would be the first to tell me if it's the MMs, but I guess there's a chance they could have missed that. We'll keep you posted.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[968 Cab]

WHen you have the front end up on jack stands, check the lower "A" arm ball joints while you are there. It's easy to do - basically big channel lock pliers and a big flat blade screwdriver to pry - do a searh here or on Rennlist for complete DIY procedures. Lot of times the front end clunking, wander, etc is from worm lower ball joint (yep, the so called "sealed for life" kingpin to A arm ball). There are ways to rebuild the regular 944/951 arns - but on inspection of the 968 arms with the pressed in plate, it does not look possible. In which case, the cost is pretty high to replace the arms.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.