09-01-2017, 11:20 AM
Not sure if the following event is what caused my CEL to come on, and stay on for several days, but I'll convey the experience nonetheless . ( The blink test fault codes indicated it was the knock sensor # 2 . )
I park the car on our street which has a pretty decent incline grade so I always curb the wheels, to their near maximum turn position. Before I start the car I do straighten the wheels , which actually takes less effort that I'd think , because I was informed that starting the engine with that additional load on it ( though I never understood the technicality of how steering position puts load on the engine ) is not optimum .. but last week I forgot to straighten the wheels and started the car with them turned sharply . The engine shook and rattled like a tractor, so badly that it sounded as if every metal component on it would come apart.. It was idling at the stall point somewhere < 600 . So I shut it off and then started it again, with the wheels back to normal, and the engine started and idled just fine. What I did not realize until much later on is that the CE light at the bottom right of the panel came on . Just that one, the big center " ! " light was not on. My CE light is extremely faint and in strong sunlight , as was the case all of last week it's practically invisible . The light stayed on for a few days and I was planning to use the Duramatric to confirm that indeed it was the knock sensor, but before I had a chance to do that the light turned off by itself and it's gone . I even had the car smog tested a couple of days ago and if that CE fault would have been there, even with the light off, it would not have passed . So it cleared itself of that particular issue, but I'm thinking the curbed wheel load start and engine rattle / noise must have been the trigger of the knock sensor and ensuing CE light .. it'd be too much of a coincidence to be anything else I think..
I park the car on our street which has a pretty decent incline grade so I always curb the wheels, to their near maximum turn position. Before I start the car I do straighten the wheels , which actually takes less effort that I'd think , because I was informed that starting the engine with that additional load on it ( though I never understood the technicality of how steering position puts load on the engine ) is not optimum .. but last week I forgot to straighten the wheels and started the car with them turned sharply . The engine shook and rattled like a tractor, so badly that it sounded as if every metal component on it would come apart.. It was idling at the stall point somewhere < 600 . So I shut it off and then started it again, with the wheels back to normal, and the engine started and idled just fine. What I did not realize until much later on is that the CE light at the bottom right of the panel came on . Just that one, the big center " ! " light was not on. My CE light is extremely faint and in strong sunlight , as was the case all of last week it's practically invisible . The light stayed on for a few days and I was planning to use the Duramatric to confirm that indeed it was the knock sensor, but before I had a chance to do that the light turned off by itself and it's gone . I even had the car smog tested a couple of days ago and if that CE fault would have been there, even with the light off, it would not have passed . So it cleared itself of that particular issue, but I'm thinking the curbed wheel load start and engine rattle / noise must have been the trigger of the knock sensor and ensuing CE light .. it'd be too much of a coincidence to be anything else I think..
