[Cloud9...68]

As much of a blast as I'm having climbing in and out of my drivers seat through the passenger door (and you all thought just getting in and out the normal way without scuffing the side bolsters was tough!), it appears that my drivers side door lock mechanism isn't going to come back to life on its own (as did my broken turn signal stalk and sunroof switch - I call it my self-healing car...), so it's finally time to do what I've been dreading - removing the door panel to take a look. Turning the key in the "unlock" direction (or the locc direction, for that matter) on the drivers side door doesn't do anything. The door stays locked no matter what. Turning the passenger side unlocks and locks the passenger door perfectly, but has no effect on the drivers side. I can't open the drivers side door from the inside, either. So it appears that the lock mechanism on the drivers side is dead.

Actually, I'm not all that worried about it anymore, and I know there are some good threads to help me through the process. I may actually end up taking off both panels, so I can compare the working to the non-working side. Plus, I need to replace the door handle rubber gaskets on both sides, anyway.

So, I'm all set to tear in, but before I do, I have one question - I've noticed the red light on the door lock switch in the center console is now always on. It doesn't appear to be doing anything, as I can still open the passenger side from the inside, and nothing happens when I press the button on the console. Any ideas as to why this light on, and whether it might have any bearing on the inability to unlock or open the drivers side door? Thanks.

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[flash]

that's the central locking system switch - sounds like you might have a control issue - could be that switch is knackered

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[PorscheDude]

You need the plastic clip that attaches the lock mechanisim to actuator. $5 part.
I think this will also extinguish the lock light.

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[Cloud9...68]

"You need the plastic clip that attaches the lock mechanisim to actuator. $5 part.
I think this will also extinguish the lock light. "

Cool! I hope that's all it is. I plan to dive into this project this weekend.

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[rhudeboye]

I have the same issue but on the passenger door and no light on console. Because turning the key doesnt pop the lock on the drivers side, I would be surprised if fixing the switch on the console solved the problem. But since you its in need of repair anyway might as well start there and try it.

keep us posted.

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[Cloud9...68]

Rhude,

I'm going to start with the door panel removal, as the clip Porschedude is referring to is in the door (someone correct me if that's not right). I'll let everybody know how it goes, as this appears to be a somewhat common problem.

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[flash]

ooh! panel coming off - good time to dynamat

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[Cloud9...68]

"ooh! panel coming off - good time to dynamat"

Good idea, as the thing I find most irritating about this car is its level of road noise. But on the other hand, I have visions of moving it more toward the direction of a track car, so I'm not sure I want to add the weight. I'll have to think on that...

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[Cloud9...68]

OK, the panel is off, and the plastic bits (as the Brits would say) all seem to be intact. The problem really seems to be with the actuator itself. When I remove the bolts that hold the actuator to the door frame, so that the actuator is left hanging, and I move the key to the lock and unlock positions in the door lock, the actuator usually (but not always) moves back and forth inside the frame. But when I bolt the actuator back to the door frame, and then turn the key (so the actuator now has to do some work and push the lock mechanism open), it generally doesn't work, and sometimes makes a sound like a dying ferret (I have no idea how a dying ferret actually sounds, but it's the best analogy I could come up with). It's kind of a muffled groaning sound, with a slight tinge of a whine.

So, it sounds to me like the actuator has given up its ghost. For those of you who have gone through this, does it sound like this is the case? If so, where can I generally get the best price on an actuator? Sunset? I suppose that while I replace the actuator, I should also replace the plastic connector that Porschedude referred to. Thanks.

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[Cloud9...68]

OK, I'm a little unclear as to which exact part is likely to be the cause of my problem. The part that pushes the lever against the door lock mechanism has number 624.211.00 stamped on it. But when I look up the actuator on autohausaz.com, they only show the actuator harness, part No. 92861293000. I called my local Porsche dealer, and he wasn't particularly helpful.

I know a few people on this forum have diagnosed their door lock problem as being the actuator. For those who have, any chance of digging out the part number? Any tips on pinpointing which part is likely to be the cause of my problem? Again, the lock mechanism (on either side) basically isn't responding when I turn the key in the drivers side door handle. When I turn the key in the passenger side door handle, it opens the passenger side perfectly, but doesn't open the driver's side. So, it's as though the driver's side actuator either isn't getting a signal, or it isn't responding to the signal. Thanks.

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[PorscheDude]

I'd look for a used actuator. There like $20 used.

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[Cloud9...68]

"I'd look for a used actuator. There like $20 used."

I like saving money as much as the next guy (probably even more than most!), but given that the door lock is opened and closed so often, and how much of a pain it is to take off the door panel, wouldn't a new actuator make more sense, seeing as mine lasted 18 years? But if the cost of a new one causes me to reach for the smelling salts (I haven't checked prices yet, as I'm trying to figure out which part I actually need) and I decide to go used, where would you recommend looking? Thanks.

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[bob blackwell]

For used parts I have had good luck with 20th Street Auto Parts (www.20car.com) in Phoenix, AZ (800) 999-4911 or Oklahoma foreign Parts (www.oklahomaforeign.com) In OK City, OK (800) 462-2446. Good luck, Bob Blackwell.

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[Cloud9...68]

I got hold of Sunset, and new actuator is about $70. To (hopefully) avoid having to remove my door panel for another 18 years, it's very much worth it to me to buy new. But first, I want to make sure the problem is actually with the actuator, and not with the signal getting to the actuator. I think I'll remove the actuator, touch a voltmeter to the connectors, and turn the key to the lock and unlock position multiple times to confirm the signal is consistently being sent to the actuator. If so, I'll go ahead and order a new one. Thanks.

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[Cloud9...68]

OK, here are the results of my tests of the signal getting to the actuator. As I said in my last post, I removed the harness that connects to the drivers side actuator, and touched a voltmeter's leads to the hot connectors on the harness. I then turned the key in the door handle to the unlock position, and then to the lock position, several times over and over. When I turned to key clockwise to the unlock position, the voltmeter would register a positive voltage (about 12V), and when I turned the key counter-clockwise to the lock position, the voltmeter's needle moved to the negative direction. I repeated this over and over, and it worked every time... until about the eighth cycle, at which point the voltage stopped registering when I turned the key to the unlock position. It still moved in the negative voltage direction when I turned the key counter-clockwise.

Interestingly, with the actuator unplugged, turning the key in the driver's side door handle would unlock and lock the passenger lock mechanism (until that eighth cycle, anyway), which it wasn't doing with the actuator attached.

So, it seems that my problem isn't just with the actuator, although it may be contributing to the problem. Has anybody out there ever troubleshot a problem like this? I guess I'll next remove the door handle, and check out the wiring on it to see if something is loose. Is there another electrical element (like a relay) between the door handle and the actuator that could be going bad? I suppose I could remove the passenger door panel and install the driver's side actuator on that side and see if it still works, although I'm a little hesitant about getting in there and risking breaking some of these 18-year-old plastic linkages.

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[Cloud9...68]

New data point - I went to open the car today, and turned the key in the driver's side on and off about a half dozen times, and it locked and unlocked the passenger door successfully each time (remember, I have the driver's side actuator completely removed at the moment). Then I went to the passenger side, and turned the key back and forth to lock and unlock, and on the 11th attempt, it stopped working. I then left the car, and came back about an hour later, and successfully unlocked it from the passenger side.

So my question is this - Is there a 10-cycle limit for the door lock's ability to lock/unlock the door, which then resets after a period of time? If so, this really nails it that it's simply the driver's side actuator, and not a problem with the signal getting to the actuator.

I know there are lots of people on this forum who have worked on their door locks. Looking forward to confirmation (or refutation) of my theory... Thanks.

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[Cloud9...68]

Anybody?? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/unsure.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/blink.gif[/img]

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[Cloud9...68]

I have to say, I'm a bit dsimayed at the dearth of responses to this, considering how common door lock mechanism problems are (or so I thought...) on these aging cars. Maybe the people who have gone through the problem that I'm struggling with aren't active on this forum anymore. Plus, it is summer, and a lot of people are on vacation.

Anyway, I've talked myself into believing the actuator is at least a major contributor to my problem, so I went ahead and ordered a new one from Sunset ($72, vs. $109 from my local dealer - Sunset continues to set the standard in OEM parts pricing and service). I also ordered the plastic connector that connects the actuator to the lock mechanism. It was just over a buck (amazing that any part for a Porsche can be that cheap). Also, since I've had the driver's side actuator out, the light on the central lock switch has gone out, which seems to be further proof that the actuator is the root cause of my problem.

My plan is to install the new actuator, but leave the panel off for at least a few days, until I'm convinced the new actuator has fully solved the problem. Then I'll button everything back up. But first, I'm going to spray some lubricant on the moving parts in the window regulator, and on the tracks as well. Although I have to say, while window regulators are a major weak point in several of the other cars in my fleet, I haven't heard of too much trouble with them in the 968, and both of mine continue to work flawlessly. But a little preventative maintenance while I have the panel off can only be a good thing.

I'll let everybody know whether the new actuator fixes my door unlock problem.

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