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How to clean/lube door locks?
#1

I have my passenger door lock apart awaiting replacement parts and thought it would be a good time to clean and lube everything. I was going to use WD-40 to clean everything up then apply graphite to everything but it appears there is some sort of grease in there now. It's mostly dirt now but I wasn't sure if there was some different lube for the actual door lock cylinder?
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#2

never use WD-40 on anything like that. the solvent in there is great for cleaning things, and getting things to move (hence the "squeaky hinge" commercials), but not so great for lubrication. if you want a good spray lube, use Tri-Flow instead.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#3

I was going to use the WD-40 for cleaning, then use a separate lube afterwards.
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#4

yeah - that should be fine. it does a decent job of dissolving grease and such. as i said, tri-flow is a great spray lube.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#5

Thanks, I'll pick up some tri-flow today. Just got confirmation my parts are at the house. I'm excited to have a working passenger door once I get everything back together which could be worse than taking it apart <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/whine.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#6

So, related to my door card project I’ve finally admitted that to do it right, I need to remove the cards. (to get the tweeter out)

 

Sooo, as long as I’m doing that I think I should dig into my 30 year old sticky door lock/latches and R&R them, along with replacing the plastic bit that broke when I tried to open the passenger door when it was only half unlocked (because, sticky hard, 30 year old grease) 

 

I’ve found Gene’s excellent door card DIY, and bits and pieces re: replacing the door handle gaskets (which I’ll do as well) but I remember a good how-to on fixing that broken plastic bit. And I can’t find it.  Is it here? Clarks? Pelican Parts?

 

Eta: NVM, I found it on Clark’s. 

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#7

Also, if anyone has BTDT, which parts is it? (I know that this is kind of like asking “how long is a piece of string?” but I’m hoping someone knows.

   

I’m guessing it’s 8, 9, or 40?

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#8

PET  wil tell.

 

and i only ever seen nr 8 or 9 broken .

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#9

I figured as much after enlarging the photo and reading the remove/adjust thread on Clark’s. I went ahead and ordered them, along with the gaskets, from Sunset last night. 

 

Everything else works fine. Locking (w/key) unlocking, opening door with the inside handle. The only thing that’s broken is opening the door with the outside handle. After reading the article in Clark’s, I realized my driver’s door needs adjusting, too. So I ordered 2 #8s. They were only $8.  9 was $3! I wish th3 gaskets had been as cheap! 

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#10

part 46 breaks as well, thats the lever in the handle, not shocking at $8,

 

the handle rubbers are shown in PET as $11 each so $44 for the set
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#11

Thx. Got a part number? The Sunset Porsche site only lists the entire handle for $170.  

 

The good news is that they list the whole lever (#40) for $68, whereas the part # I got from the Porsche fiche for #40 wasn’t listed anywhere. (In case it’s that plastic top piece that attaches to the handle is what broke) 

 

Here’s Sunset’s fiche:

   

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#12

Nevermind, it was on my PET. Doh!

944 537 672 00

 

Well, let’s hope that’s not what’s broken.  :glare:

   

 

eta: Pelican still has them. $18.95 shipped. 

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#13

Thats a 944 picture
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#14

Yeah, I know. That’s what comes up on Sunset’s page for the “reversing lever.” (#7)

   

I assume it’s because it’s the same part number for the late 944.  

 

As for the “actuating lever” you mentioned, it’s NLA on Sunset’s page, but pelican had 4. 

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#15

The arm that breaks is number 6 on this picture or 7



That seems expensive
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#16

Quote:The arm that breaks is number 6 on this picture or 7



That seems expensive
#6 is cheap, as is the plastic adjustment heim on the end of #7. (Both under $5) The whole lever, not so much. 

The actuating lever you suggested is also cheap ($12) but I’m having trouble finding one. I ordered from Pelican only to find they weren’t in stock when it never arrived. (PP has gone downhill since Wayne sold it to AZ Autohaus) Waiting to hear back from AASE to see if they can get one from Germany. 

   

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