[Gentleman Driver]

[quote name='flash' post='47749' date='Feb 19 2008, 09:21 AM']not too bad - the critical parts are the length of the housing, and the centering of the hole at the bottom - i've done the job - no fear - measure twice and cut once - it can be messy though when you drill the hole, so prepare for that



removing the struts can be made MUCH easier than the instructions generally indicate - you DO NOT need a spring compressor - merely remove the front swaybar first - then remove the big nut in the center of the strut mount - no need to remove the upper strut bearing - the control arm will then swing down freely, and after compressing the strut shaft a bit, you can slip the spring out[/quote]

That is comforting news... what about fitting the new H&R springs? Is it simply a reinstall the same way you uninstall? Also, I was reading some older posts indicating you may need additional parts for the springs and to reindex the torsion bars to counter the increased spring rate in the front. Is this true?

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[flash]

yup - even easier, since they are shorter



you will need to reset the rear ride height, which would need to be done as a part of the now necessary 4 wheel alignment, and that will get you very close, but not quite perfect - because the rear adjustment does not go quite far enough to counter the 1" drop in the front, to get perfect, you would need to reindex - this will not change the rear spring rate however - only thicker torsion bars would do that



the H&R springs that i have seen are 190/230 versus stock of 160 - the 28mm bars would be a pretty good match to that, but it isn't horrible with the stock bars - plenty of guys are doing that, and seem to be fine with it



i would just drop the eccentrics in the rear and see how you like it, before going through the painful process of either reindexing or installing bigger torsions - it's a really big job for most people, and i've heard horror stories of having to do it 3 times to get it right, at 8 hours each time

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