[Andre]

Yesterday, I discovered what appears to be a cut in my cab's rear plastic window (1.5-2" long, close to the seam). <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/mad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



I wonder if anyone has experience in replacing or repairing the plastic piece itself or a rear portion of the convertible top? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, on the process/costs as well as references of relevant repair shops in a tri-state area.



On that note, is anyone parting a cab with a blue top available?



Andre

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[flash]

can be done, but the top has to come off to do it, and at that point, you may as well change the whole darned thing - it's only about a grand, and you'll spend nearly that much just changing the back window

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[earossi]

Flash is right on.....almost. Here in the Chicago area, the lowest price that I could price out a new top was about $1700. Sure would like to pay the grand that Flash is apparently able to get in Southern California.



To add onto what Flash said......to replace the rear window (which is what I had originally planned on doing)......was "about" $600. They can take the top apart at the rear seam and then remove the rear section of the top.....and then replace the plastic window. The "about" in the above cost is a function of how tricky it is to get the top apart and then to reassemble it and get it properly adjusted.



I decided to try and find a "good" top off a wreck....and was successful. However, by the time I had purchased the top, had it shipped to Chicago.....and then had a top guy remove the old top assembly (which I was able to sell) and reinstalll and adjust the new top assembly....I had about $1100 net, in the project. Given all the hassle I had to go through......I would have been better off to have done the job for a new top for $1700......so be careful for what you ask for!



You can buy an OEM top for about $600 to $800......but, it is a labor intensive job to install and align the new top.......so, in Chicago.....you are looking at about $1000 in labor alone. In my opinion, replacing a top is NOT a DIY project.



My two cents.

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[flash]

1700 - wow - bummer - hmmm - for the extra dough, you could get it done here, and have a nice little road trip for the pleasure

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[smshirk]

[quote name='flash' date='May 29 2006, 06:59 PM']1700 - wow - bummer - hmmm - for the extra dough, you could get it done here, and have a nice little road trip for the pleasure

[right][post="21996"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



It cost me 45 bucks an hour in Atlanta for the labor. I found a Robbins top for 450 and ended up with just a bit less than a thousand for a new top installed. I had him fix a seat at the same time and the total was 1200. He quoted 800 just to replace the rear window so I would agree with everyone else about just getting a new top, even though the one I had looked fine except for the window. The new one looks much much better tho, and since it will no longer be left outside I would think it will stay looking that way.

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[flash]

yup - there ya go

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[968 Cab]

I had a small tear on the 968 cab top - about 1.25" long right at the top seam on the PS - appears that every time the top folds that is the side that "wrinkles" - now I make sure that I stop when the top is vertical and get out of the car to make sure the plastic window is folding completely into the well and make sure the wrinkle does not get worse as the top retracts completely. I suspect that the wrinkle actually pops into the correct position, but I'm sure that is why the window cracked in the first place as the top was new when I bought the car.



Now, for a temp repair or one that you can live with if you don't want "perfect". Go out and buy a tube of Elmers "Fix-ALL" Hi-Tech Adhesive - a 18ml tube costs about $3 from Home Depot or a arts and crafts store. It is a clear / opaque thick glue - kind of like silicone glue but much better once set up.



Inside a dry garage area - open the roof up 1/2 way so you can access the plastic window "tear" from the INSIDE



I gently cleaned the inside of the top with a little rubbing alcohol, then when dry - I applied a patch of 2" clear packing tape on the OUTSIDE of the window (might be easier to close the roof and keep it all taut), covering the tear in the plastic window area. Make sure it is as flat as possible as you are going to apply the Elmer's glue to the INSIDE of the window.



Now open the roof again to 1/2 way and from the INSIDE use some masking tape to make an outline around the area that is torn - leaving 1/8" away from the tear. When all that is done, apply the Elmer's glue forcing it into the "tear" and working it into the crevise, tapering the gllue in the 1/8" surrounding area and right into the fabric top. I use a small stick - Starbux coffee stir sticks work great for this to smooth it all out and build it up into a small smooth bubble of glue from the inside. be careful with this glue - if it gets onto the plastic window or anything else and cures, you won't be able to remove it! This stuff STICKS and is very pliable when set.



The glue will "level" during the curing time, so don't worry too much if it is not "smooth" at this time. Leave the roof up 1/2 way for 24 hours to let it cure properly - this is an important step - so don't rush it as this glue has to set up and bond properly.



Resist the temptation to remove the tape until 24 hours is up. Then remove it and voila - a permanent repair that you can DIY and not be embarressed for someone to see.



I've had the tear in my cab top repaired now for over a year and it is still perfect - like the day I completed it. I tried silicone cement, all sorts of other stuff, but the Elmers worked perfectly.



PS - it's also good for all sorts of rubber to metal, plastic etc - you just have to figure out a way to keep everything lined up cause once it cures, it's there for good.



Here's a photo of my repair

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[Andre]

Guys,



Thanks for athe dvice - my insurance is willing to pay for the new top, but after $1,000 deductible and for a non-OEM job by a local upholstery shop ($1,800 estimated total bill). The glue fix looks good, but I wonder if I should pick up the insurance company on their offer and get the new top.



Porsche dealer quoted $550 for plastic piece alone or $2500x2 for rear and front parts of the Porsche top. You mentioned Robbins - is that the OEM maker of 958 tops?



Andre

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[flash]

robbins was the oem supplier for the 968 tops - asc contracted with them to supply them

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[smshirk]

[quote name='flash' date='Jun 4 2006, 08:29 PM']robbins was the oem supplier for the 968 tops - asc contracted with them to supply them

[right][post="22309"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]





I got the upholstery shop go directly to Robbins and get the top. He really did me a favor, but I've given him a lot of business in the last few years. He charged me for labor only and didn't apply any mark up to the top. He is an old timer who only works about 20 to 30 hours a week. He doesn't get in a hurry either, so anytime I take a car to him it is usually there for a week or two minimum.



My wife is a cab nut, so I have 2 or 3 at any given time. Right now just the 968 and a 90 Miata that I'm redoing. It has zero power, but it's so light it is still fun to drive. As soon as I get the brakes, suspension, etc, ready I'm going to see what a blower does for it. It only has 70k miles on it and it has been in my driveway for 10 years and only about 5k miles. Just enough to keep it from drying up.



Anyone here have any experrience with supercharging a Miata?

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[earossi]

This is turning into a decent thread. I wish that someone could recommend a top shop in Chicago that could replace my top in the $1000 range! Any suggestions?



Secondly, my "new" used top has now developed a longitudinal tear about an inch long. It's not in a seam. If I didn't know better, I would say that someone put a knife through the top; however, the car is never left out of sight.......ever. So, not sure what did it.



The tear is very neat.....not ragged...............and only about an inch long. Is there a DIY repair technicque that has worked well for someone out there? Except for that one tear, the top is probably about a 9 out of 10 in shape and cosmetics. Top color is grey.



Didn't mean to jack the thread.....but it is sort of all interrelated!



Ernie

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[sp4149]

Our 95 Cab had a silver-gray top when we bought it three years ago. Always looked dirty like it had grease spots on it. Turns out the threads on the top had worn down to the black threads underneath, creating the black 'grease' spots on the top. The top didn't leak but it was obvious that it was going to continue to wear down the threads and creat more spots. Eventually we replaced the top while the car was in the body shop and went to a more conventional black top.

-sp4149

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