[tamathumper]

I want to replace the simple rubber stoppers and plastic boots at the top of my front struts.



I've never taken off a strut before, and that big spring looks dangerous.



If I put the car on the lift and the wheels drop down, will that take all of the compression off the springs so I can somehow drop the struts, or do I still need a spring compressor?

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[robadams56]

Tama, I am going to do the same thing so I look forward to the replies. I am going to look in the DIY section as well.

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[flash]

http://www.968forums.com/topic/4865-put-...mpressors/

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[tamathumper]

So I need to worry about messing up the seals when I retorque the top nut apparently,... Now I need to read up on THAT!

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[flash]

it all depends on how good you are with your impact gun. you don't want to rotate the shaft, though i have yet to bugger a seal on one. i make sure the threads on the strut are clean and lubed, and i hit the gun in very short bursts. the shaft tends not to rotate when done like that.



to do it truly right though, you need the right tool so you can hold the shaft still while you torque the nut.

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[DaveN]

I used a spring compressor and couldn't get the nut to loosen with an impact so I removed the compressors to put some load back in the strut. Hit it with SHORT bursts from the impact gun and kept checking to make sure the nut didn't get anywhere near the end lest the spring fly off and take the other nut <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> That worked out fine. I also recall the boot as being deprecated. When I went to Koni's and coilovers this year I was told those boots don't really do anything useful and thus not supplied with any kits.

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[flash]

that's why i recommended a floor jack being under the control arm. with the sway bar disconnected, the load is reduced, but gravity still comes into play.



spring compressors are dangerous. my way is much safer.

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[whotoo]

I'm putting in new struts and would like anyone's recommendations for setting the camber close enough at home to drive 40 miles to the alignment shop. I didn't remove the top plate so I think that is my main adjustment to work on.

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[flash]

do you have a framing square?

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[whotoo]

Yes!

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[flash]

lol - ok then - this is rough, but it will get you to the alignment shop



put the car in a level place



place the framing square with one leg (the 16" leg) on the ground, and one leg (the 24" leg) up against the tire, running from the bottom to the top, running through the center of the hub



measure the distance from the vertical edge of square to the top of the tire.



set both camber adjusters so that the tires are tilted the same.



as a reference, with a normal outside diameter tire (25"), 1 degree negative will give you a gap of about 1/2"

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[whotoo]

Thanks, from the info I have I should aim for zero degrees in front. Other than tire ware concerns I don't see much about the effect of camber. Do you know it's effect on handeling?

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[flash]

it all depends on how the chassis is set up, braced, etc.



there is a thread here called "alignment specs". i would consult that.

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