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rattle in frame
#1

I had some work done on my car and they retunred it to me with a rattle in the frame.

Don't want to go back as i realize they have no idea what they were doing.

Question is on the parts that go up and down, for lack of real term metal arms that are conected by what appears to be a hex head are those something that tighten or are they rivets.

it is hard to see behind them and when i tried a hex nothing happens. one has a nut behind that sticks out quite a bit, so i think i can work on that one, the other that is very loose does not seem to have a nut behind it, I thought maybe it was a small indented hex head in the back as well.

Anyone played with this yet?
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#2

sounds like they put you in manual mode and left the bolts loose - DO NOT PUT THE TOP UP OR DOWN IN POWER MODE - get this sorted out first - find out what they did - bad things can happen if one side is loose
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#3

Sounds like you are describing the large bolt that keeps the steering arms in the correct position for auto operation. They are loosened by approx 4 full turns to make the top manual. Thread includes references to some manuals that may be of help.



+1 on getting this done right the first time. The cab top is a delicate thing and does not respond well to stresses in the wrong direction/angles.



http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=5462
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#4

[quote name='rxter' post='53482' date='May 28 2008, 03:39 PM']Sounds like you are describing the large bolt that keeps the steering arms in the correct position for auto operation. They are loosened by approx 4 full turns to make the top manual. Thread includes references to some manuals that may be of help.



+1 on getting this done right the first time. The cab top is a delicate thing and does not respond well to stresses in the wrong direction/angles.



http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=5462[/quote]





I don't think I am talking about the same bolts.

These have nothing to do with manual mode.

In sealing convertible top manual pg 8 these are referred to as (5) intermediate lever and (7) tie rod.

These tweo metal arms have bolts with big hex heads. Those are the ones i am referring to. Can they be tighten? Doesn't look like they nuts behind them, maybe hidden hex heads, smaller in the back.
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#5

not sure what you are talking about - a pic would be very helpful
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#6

I have also heard a rattle when going over bumps from both sides of the car right about where the arms are... PO put top into manual mode... haven't tried to tighten anything, seeing how sh*t gets screwed up FAST with these tops.... BUT, if it *is* an easy fix to quiet these joints....



When the top is up it rattles, when down, it's silent. But, this is the joint that is loose....
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#7

that one is indeed the manual/automatic lock bolt - mine also rattled when i went into manual mode



if you are in manual mode, you can snug that up to make it stop rattling - however, once you do, you will probably forget, as i did, how many turns it was, and consequently place the motors out of synch, preventing you from going back into automatic mode without going through the synchronization process - also, too tight, and it goes back into automatic mode - so, be careful



still not sure if that's the one daly is talking about though
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#8

[quote name='flash' post='53637' date='May 30 2008, 01:40 PM']that one is indeed the manual/automatic lock bolt - mine also rattled when i went into manual mode



if you are in manual mode, you can snug that up to make it stop rattling - however, once you do, you will probably forget, as i did, how many turns it was, and consequently place the motors out of synch, preventing you from going back into automatic mode without going through the synchronization process - also, too tight, and it goes back into automatic mode - so, be careful



still not sure if that's the one daly is talking about though[/quote]

But firming it - that is... tightening it *just* so it is barely snug - should be ok? I don't know if I'll go back to auto mode. I've heard it takes longer...



Thanks!!! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#9

correct - just snug enough to quiet it down



it does take longer - very disappointing
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#10

Do not know why but I cannot seem to get the page from the convertible top manaual onto this reply.

Sorry, when I figure out how to stop the noise I will post it.
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#11

Daly,



Those are most definitely the bolts that change the top from motorized to manual. As flash says if you tighten them up and the cables are out of sync you can break the bows when you move the top with the motors. If you try to move the top manually with those bolts tightened up you will have to force it and then life gets expensive real fast. Be careful as you work to find the right degree of snug on the bolts.



JC how do your speakers sound BTW. I still have the OEMs in there and they are complete crap.
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#12

i have a pair of yamahas that aren't doing anything - pop on up and we can poke them in for a 6 pack of newcastle
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#13

[quote name='rxter' post='53760' date='Jun 1 2008, 12:13 PM']Daly,



Those are most definitely the bolts that change the top from motorized to manual. As flash says if you tighten them up and the cables are out of sync you can break the bows when you move the top with the motors. If you try to move the top manually with those bolts tightened up you will have to force it and then life gets expensive real fast. Be careful as you work to find the right degree of snug on the bolts.



JC how do your speakers sound BTW. I still have the OEMs in there and they are complete crap.[/quote]





They sounds good... installed by PO, but compared to the OEM in my old 944, they sounds alot better.
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#14

I also just noticed that one of the snap pieces that the boot goes onto is missing.

Anybody know what they are called. it is the piece that is right by the seat belt, there is a screw in the middle and a ring around the srew that the boot snaps onto, grommet?
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#15

I believe that it is called a snap. Female on the cover, male screwed into the body.

I could not find it in the PET.

Brian
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#16

[quote name='SILVY968' post='53841' date='Jun 2 2008, 11:05 PM']I believe that it is called a snap. Female on the cover, male screwed into the body.

I could not find it in the PET.

Brian[/quote]





Thanks
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#17

Well, figured out the rattle, nothing to do with manaual adjuster.

The knuckleheads who lost the snap piece also did not put the washers back on to the arms of the frame. I will now need to go search them out, hopefully Porsche dealer can still get them.
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#18

That's good news. At least pretty easy to address. Let us know how it turns out.
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