[Silver BLT]

Hi Guys...most of ya.

I am thinking of buying a small powder coating system to redo my brake calipers, I don't think that paint or epoxy is the best solution here. Rather than pay someone else to do it I can pay for the coating system by doing all 4 brakes.

Has anyone done this non-commercially? AKA DIY?

What is the color of Choice?

I have a white paint/enamel coating that was used on the space shuttle but I don"t want white calipers <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

Input is always welcome.

I'll DIY this if I do it!

Thanks

Silver BLT

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Greimann]

I am curious about the powdercoating system you have in mind. Any info? The ones I have seen are many hundreds of dollars. Wouldn't pay for themselves vs the relatively small outlay for taking the calipers to a local house.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Silver BLT]

[quote name='Greimann' date='Mar 25 2005, 05:24 PM']I am curious about the powdercoating system you have in mind. Any info?  The ones I have seen are many hundreds of dollars. Wouldn't pay for themselves vs the relatively small outlay for taking the calipers to a local house.

[right][post="2371"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Hairs yer link

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product...2&keyword=10112



Most of us already have the compressor, Damn, i just piched my old (but working) built-in oven <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/mad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> , If I would of only known then.......

still cheap enough at a appliance recycler though.



Silver BLT

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

oh, i think i have to look into that - that's just too cheap if it works

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Greimann]

It is the oven / heat source that is the major expense. I think you need 350 F to 400 F to cure it. That new fancy oven you have should do nicely (just don't expect to cook anything else in it after you are done.) <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[dlearl476]

[quote name='Silver BLT' date='Mar 25 2005, 07:33 PM']Damn, i just piched my old (but working) built-in oven  <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/mad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> , If I would of only known then.......still cheap enough at a appliance recycler though.



Silver BLT

[right][post="2374"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



I just tossed one that was given to me by a friend who figured it was cheaper to have a pro do it and have a guarantee. I tossed it because it needed 220 and my storage unit only has 110.



One thing to consider is that the calipers have rubber O-rings between the halves. Granted, given a caliper's job description, 400 degrees may be fine, but I abandoned my Eastwood Hi-Temp Red project (also requires oven baking) because I didn't want to find out. I think breaking calipers in half and getting them back together is beyond my skill-set. It may not be beyond yours. I've been cautioned by Porsche, Alfa, and BMW techs not to do it.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rustech]

FYI, I've tried this stuff called VHT from an autostore designed for painting calipers. It's got a thick powdercoat feel to it and is chemical, chip, and heat resistant. I'm very pleased with it after ~5k miles.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[968gene]

One thing to consider is that the calipers have rubber O-rings between the halves. Granted, given a caliper's job description, 400 degrees may be fine, but I abandoned my Eastwood Hi-Temp Red project (also requires oven baking) because I didn't want to find out. I think breaking calipers in half and getting them back together is beyond my skill-set. It may not be beyond yours. I've been cautioned by Porsche, Alfa, and BMW techs not to do it.

[right][post="2389"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right]

[/quote]



I split the rear calipers on a 914 to accomodate a larger 911 rotor (with a cut down diameter). I friend made 10 mm spacers and the calipers went back together - no problem. The seals were reused. At the time the calipers were 20 years old. We tracked the car many times and put many city and highway miles on the car without an issue.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Silver BLT]

About splitting calipers, Somebodys doing it to powdercoat them or maybe just cookin' em with the rubber intact? Maybe wrap the rubber with strips of header asbestos wrap and then foil. There are local powder coaters I will talk to. Dunno, either way it can be done.



The 220 to the oven is not really used as you might think. The coils are 110V so if you dont mind splitting the power and only using the lower heating coil, 110V with 30 Amps breaker should be fine for the baking time we need. If your not comfortable with electricty don't touch this work around.



Some powders require more heat than others, most are between 350 and 425. Depends on the manufactures specs. Time to cook also varies. BTW, DON"T cook this stuff in the Wifees oven or the kitchen will get a remodel <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

I'm not ready to powder coat my calipers yet, I am looking into the possibilities of PCing my own though. I'll let you all know if I do.



Thanks for the input on the BHT paint......second choice, glad to know it holds up.

Silver BLT

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rustech]

Doesn't Eric Sandoval have experience with this. I don't think they were splitting the calipers, only rebuilding the seals and dust covers after powdercoating.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Anchorman]

I'm at the early stages of a similar project, and would welcome some information and/or ideas. I have a set of calipers that I'm planning to rebuild, have powercoated silver by a local shop, and then install. Then I'll sell the calipers that are currently on my car. I've read about the challenge of getting the old stainless steel guide plates out, but I haven't tried anything yet. First I want to get these calipers clean. What's the recommended approach?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rustech]

A light sandblasting would be ideal. On mine, I used steel wool and MEK to get them as clean as possible be for refinishing. I've been thinking if maybe I should have used a chemical paint strip product to get all the old paint off, but it's too late now. I'm happy how mine turned out.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Greimann]

[quote name='Anchorman' date='Mar 28 2005, 10:26 AM']...  First I want to get these calipers clean.  What's the recommended approach?

[right][post="2464"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Typically powdercoaters are a one stop shop where they prep, sandblast and coat for you.



If you are looking to clean up the calipers before taking them in, try some Eagle One Etching Mag Wheel Cleaner. It is a highly acidic cleaner intended for raw aluminum wheels that have an as-cast finish (not polished or painted). It works wonders on brake dust and should be kind to the rubber parts as well. Wear gloves! Combine that with solvent cleaning, there should be nothing left on the calipers.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Anchorman]

Thanks, Dave. I'll pick up that cleaner and give it a try. My plan is to get the calipers clean, get everything out and off of them (plates, pistons, all rubber), have them powdercoated, and then rebuild with all new parts.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rustech]

[quote name='Greimann' date='Mar 29 2005, 08:16 AM']Typically powdercoaters are a one stop shop where they prep, sandblast and coat for you.



If you are looking to clean up the calipers before taking them in, try some Eagle One Etching Mag Wheel Cleaner. It is a highly acidic cleaner intended for raw aluminum wheels that have an as-cast finish (not polished or painted). It works wonders on brake dust and should be kind to the rubber parts as well. Wear gloves! Combine that with solvent cleaning, there should be nothing left on the calipers.

[right][post="2517"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



I would be very surprised if that takes the paint off. Do keep us informed Jim.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Greimann]

[quote name='rustech' date='Mar 29 2005, 12:13 PM']I would be very surprised if that takes the paint off.  Do keep us informed Jim.

[right][post="2536"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Oh no, it won't remove the factory coating. You will need to sandblast for that. I meant it as a cleaning process to remove brake dust, corrosion and contaminates.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Silver BLT]

An alternative could be Jasco aluminum jelly, I think its pink, it too is an etch.

<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/ohmy.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> Make sure you wear eye protection when working with any caustic compound. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> <----You don't want to look like the smiley face

Silver BLT

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[rustech]

If I were to want to clean them up down to the aluminum, then I would try the Aluminum Jelly for sure. The paint will lift right off.



In my experiences with sand blasting, there is no need to even touch them except maybe wipe them with a rag so they don't dirty your transport vehicle. Sandblasting will have no problem taking any of it off, even grease deposits. If you are going to pay for sandblasting, then they will have no problem with them straight off the car.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Silver BLT]

Its been a long time coming, but I am almost at the end of my project (this one anyway). I have powder coated my calipers myself at home with an oven I picked up for $20 <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> . I have installed the B&G progressive lowering springs and have rebuilt my old Sachs struts with the Koni inserts from Paragon. If anyone else is thinking of rebuilding their own struts, I say "Go for it!" It is not that difficult and I found a way to measure the length (where to cut) that makes it a cinch. There are three holes in the lower spring perch on the strut, I measured a length of wire to the correct size and inserted it thru the holes and marked the end of the wire. After all 3 marks were made I connected the dots with masking tape for a line to follow while the Sawsall did its magic. No Problemo. Clean 'em paint 'em and insert a long(er) metric bolt in the bottom to snug'em up. Once bottomed out, replace with the nice looking allen cap bolt provided in the kit. I should mention that my bumpstops were in need of replacement. I should have done that before I installed it the first time! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/unsure.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> DOH!



Brake calipers were cleaned with Simple Green Automotive formula. They were then Sandblasted in a cabinet purchase from Harbor Freight for $85. (don't tell the wifee) The powder I used I bought from Ebay (Pendry brand) cooked two colors at 400* for 25 minutes each. The calipers were not disassembled prior to coating just masked off the seals and put bolts in all but one of the holes for the brake lines. I rebuilt the calipers with a kit from Paragon that included new seals and dust covers ~120 I think...dunno, don't quote me on that.

The seals after cooking were strong (streched well and no signs of heat trauma or cracking) I replaced them anyway. It was impossible to tell them apart from the new ones except the old ones (seals) were wet with brake fluid still left in after I drained them overnight. Rebuilding them was not too difficult, about 20 minutes per caliper. Stainless steel brake lines were added too (Thanks again Flash)



At the recommendation of Flash (thanks Bob) I installed a KLA strut brace. But you know I had to powder coat it before I installed it. I don't like the look of the zinc cromate coating and the quality of the strut bar deserves better IMO. Great quality, but at least paint the support arms first.



Enjoy the photos, The pictures do not do justice to the electric color of the PC. I am having the car aligned next week and will give my impressions of the B&G Springs at some point after I have driven the car for a while. Again thanks Flash, I am using the 3rd alignment specs. you have provided for us. Some track time is in my future but mostly just mountain twisties.



Thanks for everyones input.

Silver BLT

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Greimann]

Very cool. The only home brew powdercoat I have seen and it looks like it turned out champion.



If you want to replicate the PORSCHE lettering, check out http://www.eagleday.com/brcapaki.html for stencils.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.