be careful about going too far down in ride height - even though you are "correcting" the geometry by altering the pickup points on the front control arms, the unresolved problem is the rear suspension
the roll center for the rear, due to the nature of the design, is very high - this creates a roll axis point, just as the front suspension geometry does - while this makes for a very compliant street car suspension design, it has limits when you try to really push it - the rear will tend to continue to roll, and take the rest of the car with it
ideally the line drawn between your roll axis points is close to parallel to the ground - dropping the front requires a corresponding and proportional drop in the rear - there is a very real limit though to how far you can drop the car in the rear, without major redesign - in a perfect world we would have unequal length control arms in the back instead of the VW bug banana arms
if this is not thought out on paper, you can go through all the hoops to fix up the front end, spend a fortune on parts, and actually end up with a car that is slower in the corners, can tend to oversteer, and be more unstable during weight transitions - the more you try to fix and tune it with add-ons like stiffer springs and swaybars though, the more understeer you will end up with, often without correcting the original oversteer - you can easily end up with a car that fells like it's on marbles
beefier parts are great, and resolving failures is a good thing, but like anything, the parts can be misapplied
it is always best to draw the suspension geometry out on paper, and then see where it wants to go, and what things have what effect on the angles
94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating
www.968forums.com
"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."