[986boxster1998]

DaveN that's a good point and if you can find someone selling the components they go for a premium; the car's themselves often go for about 25% over the standard suspension.

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[Fox944]

Buying an M030 car is not worth it Most of the time IMHO. Having driven m030 equipped cars, base suspension cars, as well as a few different modified suspension set-ups....I,VW come to these conclusions...



If you are daily driving the car, the base suspension is much more forgiving. M030 cars are bouncy and dart over uneven surfaces and road imperfections. Can be fun, but not in a car I drive everyday. That said, the turn in response is much sharper on an M030 equipped car....although you lose some high speed stability compared to base.



If you are road racing or doing auto-x, there are much better set-ups out there then the factory M030 set up, and if you are going to modify the car for road racing...you will be swapping out everything that makes an M030 car an M030 car to begin with..so why pay a premium for parts you aren't going to use.



If you are drag racing the car, M030 equipped cars are much more difficult to get out the whole and have issues finding traction as there is a lot of wheel hop due to the helper springs on the rear shocks.



The only way I would want an M030 car is if I were keeping the car relatively stock and using it as a weekend toy. They are def. more fun to pilot and require a little more effort which can be rewarding. If I were daily driving the car, modifying the suspension, or using it for any type of motorsport....I would skip an M030 car in a heartbeat.

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[Dimma]

As an owner of a genuine 1993 968 Club Sport with M030 and M220 I totally disagree with the previous post. As I did organize a few 968 days here in Holland I had the opportunity to drive some other 968's. All non CS but some with m030, some without. As a more or less sporty driver there is by far no better fun then the CS with M030 and M220.



Here and in Germany a true 1993 CS with M030 and M220 sells for half more then the any year non CS. M030 and M220 does add value to a non CS.

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[Fox944]

If you re-read my post, you will find that you totally agree. As I mentioned m030 cars are more fun and more rewarding to drive. In addition to that' I also mention why I feel they are noth worth the extra coin if you plan to upgrade the car or daily drive it.



M030 adds value to any 968, not just CS models. But again....there are far better set-ups out there if you are upgrading, and if you are daily driving the car...it's not my cup of tea. For a weekend car I don't plan to do much modification too and drive on sunny days....an M030 car would be worth the upgrade.

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[94SilverCab]

Fox, nice to see you posting again, you've been missed....



Jay

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[TSBeckman]

I'm looking at a few cars.



The first is a one owner base car. 100% stock.



The second is an 0M030 car with <acronym title='Limited Slip Differential'>LSD</acronym> from California and costs aboyt $5000 more than the first.



The third is base car, but with updated suspension using M030 sway bars. That price is right in the middle of the other two.



This car will be a weekend fun car. Maybe a fun track day once a year. Maybe an occasional autocross. But mostly sporting weekend drives for fun.



Not sure which is the best bet. Factor in enjoyment and value. And should resale value play a role? I would assume the M030 cars will always be sought after by 968 enthusiasts. It seems that way from what I can tell. Of course, there are some that might not care or would prefer the softer ride.

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[bombfactory]

IIRC, M030 front hubs are not beefier than std. hubs, they just have slightly different spacing for the thicker M030 front rotor. The only M030 modifications to the rear is that the rotor is cross drilled (and about twice the price).

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[Fox944]

Jay, thank you:-) I miss this place myself.



Austin, cross drilled rotors actually decrease performance....so swapping for M030 rear not only costs more, but decreases surface area on the rotor. They do look good though.

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[flash]

all things being equal cross drilled rotors do not decrease performance, and in fact it is just the opposite. the cooling generally outweighs the surface area loss by a good margin.



that beings said, they have to be done right, and they have to have the right pads used with them, otherwise cracking and/or uneven pad wear can occur.



here is the list of M030 components:



http://www.weissach....030-Option.html

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[Fox944]

Cross drilling started in the 1960's on racing cars for heat dissipation and so water does not build up btwn the pads rotors. Today, you won't find then on race cars. Many times you will see stress cracks on drilled rotors subject to severe (race and even street in some cases) use. On a conventional car, used on the street and not racing, they really don't serve a purpose other then reducing surface area which means your car will not stop as quickly. If you are racing, no doubt...you will have less brake fade.



Most manufacturers that offer drilled rotors as oem equipment do it for vanity....same as having unpainted cf parts on your car ala Mitsubishi evo or corvette zr-1. People think they look cool. Porsche's have over sized brakes, so they still have ample surface area even with a drilled rotor, and for street use they are ample.



Today's race cars will typically have slotted rotors. Which won't crack due to stress, the surface area is greater then a drilled rotor, and it does the same job....removes heat and water. However, they are impractical for street use because they wear down your brake pads way too quickly which is not a good thing on a production street car as too many would complain. Slots essentially cut layers off your pads which is great for a race car (keeps the pads soft), not too great for a street car. I've had/used many different types of rotors on the various cars I've owned....slotted, dimpled, cross drilled, and standard discs. And while slotted performed best (relative), I also needed new brake pads every few months. They do sound cool under hard braking.



This is a photo of current Porsches 911 RS RSR race car slotted discs.

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[flash]

while it is true that slotting has become the more common method of improving rotor performance, and cross-drilling was something originally intended to combat heat with asbestos pads, there is plenty of data out there to show the improved braking from drilled rotors, particularly in the wet.



further, they do not always crack. that is almost always due to either a poor job of the drilling, or due to incorrect pad choice. as an example, i have had the same set of zimmerman cross-drilled rotors on the blue car, and there is not a single crack or hint of one, even though there is significant rotor wear.



the amount of surface area removed is minimal, and it is only contact surface. the cooling surface is actually increased. the improved cooling outweighs the contact loss. the additional exit paths for the heat and gasses is significant. again though, these need to be done right, and used with the right pad.



done correctly, cross-drilled rotors do an excellent job. done wrong, for example not having overlapping patterns, or lacking chamfering, can result in uneven wear and cracking. using a pad that does not dissipate heat well will do that too. the pads and rotors have to work together.



guys who tell you that cross-drilling doesn't work are frequently the ones who choose the wrong pads or cheap rotors. i hear this sort of thing all the time, but never from anybody who has actually tested them back to back.



as for slotted rotors and pad wear, it can go either way. it really depends on the pad type. it is a bad idea to use a soft pad on a slotted rotor, as it will wear quickly. a hard pad will not. as an example, the denali comes with solid rotors and soft pads and gets on average 20k miles on a pad set. with the cross-drilled and slotted rotors i have now, and the porterfield 4S pads, i get over 40k miles on them. they also don't fade or get nearly as hot.



one thing that either cross-drilled rotors or slotted ones do that solids don't is resist deposits that make for uneven braking and brake fade. the uneven surface helps to scuff the pads continually, thereby reducing that tendency.



i've run them all. i've tested braking distances. i'll continue to run anything but solid rotors on any car i intend to drive fast, or expect maximum braking from. as soon as the white car wears out its brakes, i'll upgrade that one too.



we are now WAY off track.



back to OPTION CODES

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[psuphoto]

looking forward to checking out my option codes! Thanks for posting

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[MB968]

If you have a parts list pdf, the options codes are also listed in the second to last section, MSP-Pages

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[tamathumper]

For a brief moment, I thought he was posting all the options codes on his sticker, and I was like,... DAMN! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[psuphoto]

found: co2, 403 (even though a previous owner replaced the 17inch with 16 inch <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> )454 234, 490, 494. NEED HELP on: xd4? 231? 498-delete module designation rear? 550, 09991, 13941, 13951 96sns820518. Any chance this has a <acronym title='Limited Slip Differential'>LSD</acronym>?

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[flash]

the code for a 92 would be 221 (220 on later cars)



that doesn't mean that somebody didn't put one in there.



no, you can't just stick it in the air and spin the wheels, as a torsen type will not show up that way.

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[MB968]

My 92 has a 220 option on the sticker in the hatch for the 40% lockup. Did the clutch type and the torsen have different option codes, I thought they were the same.



Clarification question for Flash. My quaife in the Mazda will rotate the other wheel if both are raised. I thought that quaife and torsen both used the same non-backdriving characteristic of high angle worms to accomplish the torque distribution. Do you know how they are different such that the quaife turns the other wheel, but the torsen doesn't?

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[flash]

early 92s had the clutch type and was option code 221



what i was talking about was the wheels both turning in the same direction, as a clutch type or lock-up would do. a torsen will spin the other wheel the opposite direction (until enough load is applied to it). how much load for lockup depends on the diff. some are actually adjustable by means of shims and such.

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[MB968]

Do we know what early means. I thought mine was a fairly early 92 which I assumed had the clutch type. Didn't I also see that there is different marking on the tranny for the torsen vs the clutch type?



My comments too were that the wheels would go in the same direction with both wheels raised, not like an open where they go in opposite directions. On my quaife, they both turn the same direction. That's why I was curious if you knew why the torsen didn't turn the same direction with both wheels off the ground. I thought they used the same basic technology. But the quaife could have a higher angle to the worm gears which would make it look like a higher lockup (and thus why it acts like it does with the wheels raised.

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[986boxster1998]

[quote name='psuphoto' timestamp='1371230744' post='144350']

found: co2, 403 (even though a previous owner replaced the 17inch with 16 inch <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> )454 234, 490, 494. NEED HELP on: xd4? 231? 498-delete module designation rear? 550, 09991, 13941, 13951 96sns820518. Any chance this has a <acronym title='Limited Slip Differential'>LSD</acronym>?

[/quote]

CO2 = US Emissions

XD4 = Painted Wheel Caps

09991 = Exclusive Program build; listed with all cars that had an X (XD4 for you) option code

231 = 17" Tires

234 =

403 = 17" C2 Turbo (C2 Turbo (Cup 1)) wheels

454 = Cruise Control

490 = Hi-Fi Sound w/ Amp

494 =

498 = Rear 968 Emblem delete

550 might be 850 = Sunroof



I had some of these on previous cars so knew what they were haven't run across the ones I left blank; best to ask Jeff Coe of the 968 Registry. The longer numbers are likely other build information. Here is were options are listed on the sticker:

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