[Cloud9...68]

I recently replaced my lower radiator hose (the one on the passenger side, with the fat end that fits onto the water pump), and found this:

 

   

 

I really dodged a bullet - losing a hose on the track would have really ruined my day.  Searching for a cause of the contact between the power steering pulley and the hose, I quickly noticed that the radiator was quite loose - I could move it back and forth (fore and aft) with very little effort.  Searching for a cause, I saw that the rubber mounts that press down on the radiator via a pair of adjusting screws with 4 mm allen heads were badly worn.  I was able to get several turns on the adjusting screws, which dramatically reduced the radiator movement.  Here are the parts I'm talking about:

 

   

 

The part number for the rubber mounts is 951 106 053 00.  I will be ordering a pair of new ones soon.  I'd recommend that everyone take a look at the condition of these mounts on your car, and specifically, see if you can move your radiator back and forth.  If it's loose, go ahead and tighten the adjusting screws, then order a new set of rubber mounts.  And definitely take a look you your lower radiator hose at the point where it's nearest the power steering pump pulley.  If you don't track your car, chances are you're not in immediate danger of busting a hose, but if your radiator mounts are badly worn (or even missing), one hard braking event might be all it takes to send the hose to its demise via contact with the spinning wheel of death.  

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[flash]

there are matching rubber mounts on the bottom that are well known for getting soft and falling out.  by the looks of your adjuster, the bottom mount is missing.

 

note that the bracket the adjuster goes through looks bent.  this comes from over tightening the adjuster.  i would remove the adjuster and bend that back down.

 

also check the hose itself.  i've seen that with hoses that are not from porsche.  i actually posted a thread with pics, comparing the hoses.  one was from a source that said OEM and the other was from sunset.  the OEM was slightly different in shape, and got too close to the pulley.

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[ryker]

I had this happen in my car, and it actually cut through the hose, and my hose was only a couple months old. I also had it happen to my top hose! You have to make sure to twist these hoses away from the radiator fans. Everything is tight in these engine bays.

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[flash]

yup - that's the shot.  the real deal on the right.  the "OEM" part on the left.

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[Cloud9...68]

Can the radiator be lifted enough to replace the bottom rubber mounts without disconnecting the radiator hose(s)?  At the very least, the radiator must be fairly heavy, being full of coolant, and the leverage for lifting it, without removing the front belly pan (aka "batwing") and lifting it with a floor jack, isn't great.

 

As far as the hoses, I have to say, my new one, which I bought from Pelican for about $24, doesn't look to be as good quality as the one that was in there - it's significantly thinner.  Sunset wanted $68 for an OEM, which I thought was a little ridiculous for a hose, but comparing the new one to the old, I think I'll spring for an OEM next time.  It's hard to measure the distance between the hose and the power steering pulley, but it looks to be about 3/8".  I drove it for one session at the track with the new hose and tightened radiator mount adjusters, and there was no contact between the hose and the pulley.

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[Langley968]

Good to hear about quality differences from different suppliers. Cheaper is usually not the best route, since it means less reliability and possibly more headaches. For parts such as hoses and belts, a few extra dollars can mean a lot of extra peace of mind!

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[kzem1]

I had the same issue.  I replace OEM with a Gates hose I bought while buying new belts.  I noticed a cut in the Gates hose forming and after taking it out laying it side by side with OEM you can see the difference in shape and size.  Not alot.  But enough to cause the problem.  Back to OEM it was.

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[Grandpa#3]

For those thinking about tightening the top adjustment bolts. The adjustment bolt can work its way through the rubber mounts and into the top of the radiator itself so be careful of how much you tighten the bolt. New rubber mounts top and bottom is the only way to be safe.

 

Cheers,

Larry

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[flash]

yes, you can lift the radiator without disconnecting the hoses.  it isn't easy though, as the front apron will be in your way.

 

the lower mounts have a little "button" that goes into a hole in the lower support.  you will need to lift the radiator about 2" to get enough room to work.

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[Cloud9...68]

Grandpa,

 

That's true.  My rubber mounts are pretty badly deteriorated, so the radiator was moving around quite a bit, which I'm sure is the cause of the damage to my hose.  Tightening the adjusting bolts significantly reduces the movement, but yes, it's easy to over-tighten them and damage the rubber mounts even more, or bend the support bracket.  There's a happy medium to adequately secure the radiator, but yes, new mounts is the way to go.  I ordered four from Sunset yesterday.

 

Flash,

 

That's what figured.  Looks like it will be a bit of a struggle to replace the lower mounts.

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[JWahlsten]

Thank you for adding to the parts needed to put my car back together...

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[Cloud9...68]

Yeah, I wish I had thought of these mounts when I did my rebuild.  It would have been SO much easier to replace the lower mounts with the engine out of the car.

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[flash]

it won't be horrible.  the hoses will fight you, but you can get there

 

remove the reservoir cap first to give it better expansion room

 

remove the airbox and radiator cross bar

 

remove the front apron

 

probably easiest to remove the fans, both for interference and weight.

 

then lift up the radiator from the top and stuff a tennis ball underneath it.  the tennis ball will give you work room without buggering the bottom of the radiator.

 

install new bumpers

 

reverse the rest.

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[Cloud9...68]

Everything sounds fine, except step 3 (line 4).  I hate taking the apron on and off, but I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and do it.  Do you need to do it to give you access to the lower mounts?

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[flash]

pretty hard to get in there otherwise.  you can try it though.

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[Cloud9...68]

Yeah, definitely crowded under there.  And it's worse for me with the oil lines from my dual oil coolers crossing right along the back of the apron.

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[flash]

yeah - i never liked that design.  too many potential failure points, and it's never a good idea to run from one heat exchanger exit a hose, then run to another.  the fluid dynamics are not in your favor, and you can starve bearings that way.  once i decided not to track the car anymore, i never got back around to making the larger cooler for the OEM location, which would have worked a lot better.

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