[Cloud9...68]

It's happened to me twice now, and I don't remember anybody ever having reported a leak here before. It's at the o-ring where the black housing which connects to the hose that goes to the coolant reservoir, attaches to the water pump:



   



   



   



The leak is coming right at the intersection of the housing and the pump - it's definitely not coming from where the hose connects to the housing. The leak happened simply as a result of filling up the coolant in preparation for finally firing up the engine, so there was no heat or pressure in the system. As I said, this happened to me a few years ago, and I simply replaced the o-ring seal, and the problem was solved. It just strikes me as odd that this exact problem has happened again, although the car has not been driven in nearly two years. Does the ethylene glycol act as a lubricant for this rubber o-ring, keeping it pliable? I replaced just about every o-ring or seal in the engine - I guess the one I neglected is the one that got me.

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[vliegwielolaf1234]

Seen it before .

New pump comes with new one(blocked where the small hose is connected ) . just make sure you drill a hole if not present .

When old they tend to warp a bit and start leaking .

Use the right torque , to tight will make it worse .

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[jaap]

I have had this also, a small leak from the o-ring which you could see when putting some force on the plastic part. Replaced both the the plastic part and o-ring and has not happened again.



jaap

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[Cloud9...68]

Thanks; do you happen to know the torque spec for these bolts? It's conceivable that I made it too tight when I replaced the o-ring a few years ago. I just ordered a new o-ring from the local dealer, so I should have it in a day or so. It's going to be a bit of a challenge to replace this o-ring without spilling too much coolant, since the hose that goes on the black plastic housing goes straight to the reservoir...

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[flash]

drain the coolant. it's not hard, or that messy, if you make a sluice gate.



torque - the metal portion should allow for normal torquing. i would just look up the size in the manual and go with that.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1357139120' post='136920']

drain the coolant. it's not hard, or that messy, if you make a sluice gate.



torque - the metal portion should allow for normal torquing. i would just look up the size in the manual and go with that.

[/quote]

You mean at the radiator drain plug?



And yes, the plastic housing does have metal sleeves that go around the bolt holes, so it makes sense that the bolts should take the standard torque for the size bolts that are used (M6, I believe). Thanks.

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[flash]

yes, at the drain plug. then clamp off the hose from the overflow reservoir with a pair of vice grips. hopefully then there isn't too much left in the block.

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[Lear35A]

The engine tightening torques in the manual say this is an M8 thread to be torqued to 15 ftlb or 20 Nm. And I'm going to start a new thread somewhere about using clicker type torque wrenches. I learned something very useful the other day in that regard.

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[flash]

lol - yeah - i generally don't use those on smaller stuff. they just aren't accurate enough. that being said, i do have a 1/4" drive one for tiny stuff if i need it.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='Lear35A' timestamp='1357140295' post='136925']

And I'm going to start a new thread somewhere about using clicker type torque wrenches. I learned something very useful the other day in that regard.

[/quote]

You've piqued my (and probably several others') curiosity. I read many years ago that clicker torque wrenches just aren't as accurate as other types, and that they don't hold their calibration very well. I use an old-fashioned bendy-bar type for most things (I have two sizes), and only use the clicker type on bolts where I can't see the dial. The best of all worlds seems to be the type with a built-in audible alarm, and LED light, but I haven't sprung for one of those yet.

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