[Kim]

I need to know if this seems to you guys like what I am afraid that it is.



I noticed today (and this just started today) that the car has a certain "whooshing" sound coming from up front, almost like if the air was bypassing the exhaust system, when I was accelerating. Didn't need to step on it, just push the throttle a bit. Any gear, any speed. It made a sound like that at first when the catalytic converter cracked but then there was a lot of smoke coming from that area. (I even have already sent Pete a note asking about a new header back system to replace it all.) But there is no smoke at all - but I know the cat is bad. Tonight, for the first time. the car temp gauge went very high to the 10 o'clock marker (normally it runs just under the 8 o'clock marker) and there was no heat in the car, even with the A/C off and the temp turned to max. The, all of a sudden, there was a lot of heat, then no heat, etc. The gauge would go very high very fast and then come down to below the 8 o'clock marker fast - not like it was stuck but up and down within about 3 seconds. There is enough coolant, and it looks clean, but when I opened the cap there was a LOT of air blowing back in through the big radiator line. The reservoir was almost empty before I opened the cap and then almost full after the air stopped blowing. The climate control section works properly and it was overhauled only last year. I have had no problems with the temperature selection/heating/cooling other than the A/C upgrade recently.



I fear for a failed head gasket. Could this explain the hard start issue when left for a while?



If I need to fix this are there other things that I should plan on doing at the same time?



PS - I joined up 3 years ago yesterday - Is this my reward?

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[xrad]

erratic temp often means variable levels coolant reaching the temp sensor. Air under pressure in coolant system could be from overheating or from head gasket leak. Side leak from head gasket can make the wooshing sound. Altohough the head gasket leaks I have experienced made more of a PSSSSSST, PSSSST,PSSSSSST, PSSSSSST type sound



could be synchronous problems.



also consider a cracked head......



Take off the oil fill cap, run your finger across the inside round portion, and taste it......sweet? (if you have the sweet type) means antifreeze in oil. Also look for sweat drops of moisture on the cap(often normal).



Since oil floats on antifreeze/water mix, you can drain a small amount out of the bottom of the oil pan and see if there is antifreeze in there (best done after 24 hours of sitting still, cool, and in the morning)



also check resorvoir overflow cap. sometimes these go bad...



also: pull the plugs, if one looks very different, may be fouling secondary to antifreeze.

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[94SilverCab]

Could be blocked hose or blocked radiator, radiator cap not holding pressure? (those would be a simple and cheapest possibilities) are hoses top and bottom alll equally hot when the car is running?



Jay

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[xrad]

and the usual bad thermostat....

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[Kim]

But it isn't. There is red rad fluid under the oil filler neck cap, no rad fluid left in the reservoir and a very strong smell of rad fluid when the car was started up. This may explain why the car has started so hard the last while.



So I need a head gasket job. Is this worth doing? The car has about 275,00 km (175,000 miles). It is in good shape (for its age) with a lot of stuff that is now new and I like to drive it. But, if I do this, I have to be comfortable that this sort of repair is reliable and not just an opened can of worms that never gets shut. Otherwise, I am getting a Cayman S.



I also need to have the oil pan gasket replaced so, if I was going to get that done, I would probably look at the rings at the same time (anything else?). I also need a new exhaust system since the cat on mine is cracked again and I was planning to get the system that RS Barn sells. If I did that, the Stage 2 chip would make sense. Would the engine repairs be able to deal with that sort of upgrade? I don't race or drive hard but I do like to "get into it" the odd time or two.



So what else can a poor boy do ('cept play in a rock and roll band)? Has anyone ever done this? I can't do any of it myself and I am too far (1600 km) to get Pete to do it although I can get stuff from him. I am going to send this as an e-mail to him directly. What else should be considered at the same time? Is this $5K? $10K? $15K?

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[xrad]

yep..dead sure sign...a/f under cap!



If you are going to do it, do it right. W/270,000+miles:



engine rebuild if bores and pistons are straight on (includes all bearings, every seal, valve job w/new guides and seals, and maybe valve springs, definately retainers, have to check big and little ends, wrist pins, oil pump, thourough cleaning, cam lobe check, tensioner chains/pads, and of course belts)



with the engine out, you can have the bay cleaned, and also check accessories like a/c, PS pump, alt. , engine mounts, exhaust bolts, etc....and of course and wiring/hoses connectors needing replacement.



If the essentials are solid (cams, block and bores, head, pistons, crank , and rods) this can be done by you for way less than 5g's. If you don't have the tools/experience and you need a mechanic who knows what he is doing...maybe 8000$ total (without a ripoff...and get a one year warranty)

if you go to the dealer..probably 10-15g's or more.



engines are , well , engines. And they need to be built correctly to last (like from the factory)



PS: i like the cayman S style, I just hit my head on the side of the bubble roof when I drove it.



Oh yeah: DON'T Drive it anymore until fixed...good way to ruin the cylinders/rings

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[Kim]

170,000 miles (275,000 km). But who's counting. As for the cost, as Long John Baldry said, "A bill's a bill".



I just started it for about 4 seconds to see if we could determine if any air was leaking around head. Won't be on again.

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[Kim]

Been talking to Pete and repair shop and now have a plan for repairs. Cost for Porsche of Halifax to do the work to redo the head, rings and other associated wear items probably too numerous to mention here will be $5000-$9000. I am also going to install the RS Barn header + cat + cat back system and a Stage 2 RS Barn chip, assuming that nothing is found during the tear down that would be so bad as to decide to not fix it. Pete thinks that is unlikely. Will also do the air box mod thing. Start in 2 weeks. Should be fun. Will advise after engine is out and disassembled as required.



I could ask to have more fun but probably wouldn't be worthy.

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[xrad]

sure...there are bills, and then there are CRAZY BILLS.....





the price you mentioned sounds right for the job.

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[banditsc]

Glad to hear your saving the car, should last you another 200k or so till it needs it again. You might want to do a header wrap like Flash did. It should quite down the header noises from under the hood, since you use it as more of a DD and for long trips.

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[Kim]

Thanks guys. I will post an update in two weeks when I know exactly what is wrong. What can you do - I can't shoot it or drive it to the edge of town and leave it for dead. And I can't trade it in on anything. So I will spend what it is worth and just keep having fun.

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[rxter]

Good for you Kim. Glad to see that the triplets will stay together.

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[Kim]

I should rename then the Good, the Bad and the Ugly. Or maybe Larry, Curly and Moe. No, wait, they are all me!

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[PorscheDude]

The 3 stooges is better than Manny, Moe and Mike. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/tongue.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Kim]

Car goes in tomorrow to start the engine work. Pete advised me that the header back system and Stage 2 chip is en route. The air box mod will be done as soon as I can find somebody with a drill and a hole saw (pathetic, isn't it!). Already told 'em at Porsche of Halifax that I want that engine bay to shine if the engine is coming out. Looking forward to end of next week. I will post some pics as the progress continues. Here's hoping for the best and planning for the worst.

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[Kim]

Update 1.



1. compression was measured at 175/180 psi on all four cylinders so I guess that is good news.

2. the head gasket was almost non-existent. Change your rad fluid regularly.

3. the head was not cracked or otherwise damaged nor was the mating surface on the block.

4. the cylinder walls were "good".



I will visit the patient tomorrow morning to discuss the craniotomy with the doctor and may have more news then.

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[rxter]

So far so good. Fingers crossed.



WRT compression checks any reason that a rock hauler like me can't do that myself? I'd love to know where that stands as it seems to be one of the key metrics when thinking about how much cash to throw at an old car (if the engine is tight spend freely to make it pretty, if not, then make it run first).

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[flash]

175-180 is "ok" but certainly not the 190 plus of fresh - that's a good 10% down - that means 25hp gone



the head gasket thing is a bummer, and unfortunately something we are going to start hearing a lot more of - i've seen shots of deteriorated ones lately and it isn't a pretty concept - i'm thinking of changing mine just to be safe - as hard as i run the car, i can't think blowing one is going to turn out well for me

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[Cloud9...68]

But if the head gasket was pretty much nonesistent, wouldn't that completely explain the marginal compression, indicating the valves and rings are likely in pretty good shape? Although once the head is off, it would be the height of foolishness not to do a valve job. But maybe the rings and bottom end can be put off till another day, if desired...

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[flash]

maybe - depends on the seal it was making - one would think that it wouldn't be consistent though - no telling



i'd be doing valves regardless of anything else though if i had the head off - i think he is doing that too though

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