[Norskiepete]

I continue to have problems with a new battery getting drained. I went out last night after the car sitting for three days and it was dead as a stone.



I have checked under-hood lights, glove box light, rear hatch lights... sat in the dark garage looking for any peep of light. Multi-meter shows no current drain. Altnernator putting out plenty of charge. It is sitting at with the PM with him scratching his head.



Any other ideas from this wise forum? <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/unsure.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Anchorman]

Where are you measuring the current drain? Is it possible that you've got a current flow to the starter that you're not picking up? Electrical problems in the starter cables are not unusual.



I'm leaving on a three-week vacation next week during which my car will sit unused in my driveway. Based on my experience, I'll have no problem starting it when I return, so your situation is - as you clearly understand - very wrong.

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[flash]

what is the voltage at the battery in the morning?



what makes you certain that the alternator is putting out plenty of current?



how many AMPS? (with a bad bearing, you can have 14volts, but ony 5 amps, which won't charge the battery)



have you done a specific gravity test on the battery? even new ones are known to have a dead cell

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[Dirk]

Providing your measurement of zero current drain is correct it can only be a duff battery.

The next step would be to disconnect the battery at night and checking it again in the morning.

Would this result in a charged battery the next morning you must have had a problem with the drain measurement, would the battery be low(er) after standing disconnected for a night it would be time for a new one.

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[nissanite]

I went through 3 "Porsche" batteries in 20 months. Installed an Interstate & no more problems.

Caveman way to check for a draw, Disconnect neg terminal & place a test light between terminal & neg post of battery. If the light glows you have a draw. Some draw present always with clock & radio memory.

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[Norskiepete]

Data from the PM: draw on the battery is 14-16 mAmps. Battery checks out not great, but ok. Probably not bad enough to get Sears to replace it. We will run through these suggestions next week.



Anchorman -- I am measuring the drain at the battery with a multimeter. Will that not pick up any/all current drain (per your comment on starter cables)?



Flash -- I have been measuring output through the ammeter guage on the instrument cluster. I don't know if the PM has measured elsewhere.



Pete

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[flash]

you have an ammeter in the cluster? that's cool - the rest of us only have a voltmeter - got any pics?

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[Norskiepete]

sorry... voltmeter

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[flash]

ok - bummer - that would have made this easier, and somehting i would have liked in my car



no worries - while your drain seems high, and i would look into that for sure, back to my original question, how many amps are you outputting?

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[Norskiepete]

Problem solved: the hood switch microswitch went bad. It wasn't showing up when checking the current drain because it was being switched off for the check. Someone had earlier had suggested checking it, but I wasn't seeing it on in the garage in the dark -- it's too well sealed and not very strong to begin with.



Now on to more fun items: like an airbox mod!

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[flash]

sweet!!!



nice when it's simple

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[Dirk]

So I should be glad a CS does not have a light in the engine compartment! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/tongue.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Anchorman]

To report on what can be experienced: as noted above, I was leaving my car to sit - outside, in winter, with no use - for three weeks. When I returned, it started on the first try - after 20 days. Battery was still strong, fuel supply was fine, etc.

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[968gene]

I have had experience with a battery that was knocked around enough for the plates inside to touch. Battery would show 12 volts when charged but would not start the car after a day or two...

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[Qfrank]

I put in new battery Thursday night, this morning dead as a door nail. Bought trickle charger until I figure it out.



I do not have under hood light, appears it was removed from PO. Could that still be drawing power? Wires are neatly tucked into hood, with now loose connections etc.



Checked ALL interior lights for proper operation, everything checks out. If I just unplug all those bulbs, ie: gloveboxx, trunk, ashtray, dome light etc, will that still draw power?



I see where battery terminals can go bad, but they look ok for now.



I can upgrade the wires later, but how in the world would a 2 day old battery go dead?



Trickle charger for now. I drive the car on the weekends.



Thanks,



FQ

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[968gene]

do you have any after market add ons? radio, amp etc.?

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[DaveN]

New batteries don't come with a full charge. They are shipped dry (law, dagerous cargo) and filled with acid at the point of sale. You still need to give them a full charge. If, after a full charge, you still have a drain then put an ammeter in series with the battery and report what the current draw is when all is shut down.

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[Cloud9...68]

I did this draw test awhile back, and it pegged the needle of my ammeter, as I recall, and yet my car can sit for up to about two weeks, and still start right up. I'd be curious to see what a typical current draw is for these cars; maybe my ammeter's upper limit is too low; I'll have to check it.

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[DaveN]

Most meters have a fixed 10A plug for the leads, you should never pin that at rest!

I would expect a draw of 2-300ma tops but it's all stereo, clock, alarm etc. dependant.

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[flash]

yeah - most often it is the removable face of a stereo that gets left in - oddly the draw is heavy in that mode, as opposed to with it removed



also, tapping the wrong lead (constant hot versus switched hot) on stereos and accessories will do it

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