[todzilla]

I bought my '92 968 a few weeks back (JDM import) with 89000 km on her (about 55000 miles) and I have records dating back to new - but in Japanese!! So I really have no specifics on routine servicing (the belt job was just done)



The previous owner (who brought it into Canada) just put some new plugs and a K & N filter in, but as far as I know, that's it for a 'tune up' I don't know how old the cap, rotor and fuel filter are, but if they are original, I'd assume it's time - if for no other reason that age. The wires look ok. It seems to take a couple of seconds of cranking before she fires....maybe 2?



Other than these items, any other maintenance I should do at the near 100000 KM mark? With winter approaching (though it rarely gets anywhere near freezing on the west coast) what grade oil do you recommend? Should I run synthetic? I understand as these cars age, it's a good idea to put a heavier oil in them? The car runs pretty tip top as it sits (though I can't seem to get over 20 mpg's in the city) - but I want to make sure that anything that can be done to keep her running perfect, will be done.



Any advice is appreciated!



Cheers

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[biotechee]

I would consider cap, rotor, plugs and wires, fuel filter, oil and oil filter change, coolant change (might as well change the HCV while you're doing the coolant- the stock HCV is inexpensive), and brake/clutch fluid change.



Check the pads and chain too.



If you haven't already done so, get the 993 DME relay and replace the original 944 DME relay. Keep the 944 DME relay in your glove box as a spare. Again- not much money for the 993 DME relay.



How's your battery?



How are your tires?



Brake pads?



When were the belts done?



Check for leaks around the engine bay- power steering, cam cover, balance shaft seal area, etc. I have a few small leaks here and there that I will be addressing soon.



Might not hurt to clean the K&N depending on when the previous owner installed it and the amount of mileage it has seen. If you clean the filter, would probably be a good time to get some MAF cleaner from an auto parts store and use it.



Regarding oil, look in your owner's manual- there should be recommended oil weights in there. What type of oil do you have now (syn vs. dino)? If you currently have synthetic, stick with synthetic. If you are running dino, I personally would switch to synthetic, but that's my personal opinion. How do you drive the car? If you are not an aggressive driver, sticking with dino oil probably won't cause any issue. How often do you change the oil?



Just some thoughts...



I'm going to be having a ton of this stuff done on my new-to-me cab, just so I can establish a baseline for service.



Either way- have fun!

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[flash]

change out hydraulic hoses if original



hydraulic system flush - every 2 years

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[todzilla]

Thanx for the help and advice. I will def. look into these areas and do what needs to be done.



I daily drive the car (not a track car or boy racer) so the car will see mostly mild stop and go with the occasional highway run to 'clean 'er out'. I can't decipher the PO's records as they are all in Japanese but the importer used dino oil, as far as I know. Isn't changing to synthetic asking for trouble on older engines? I've heard changing can encourage seaping and leaks? The weather will be anywhere from freezing (0 celcius) to around 10 celcius (50ish F) I remember on my older 951 I used 15W40....but I may be off?

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[banditsc]

Mobil1 15w50 works well, or Redline 10w40, being a daily driver and oil changes will be more frequent I would go the Mobil1 route. Don't worry about the synthetics I think most of us are all running them. I recall some recent post describing how the synthetic oil causing leaks is a fallacy.

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[todzilla]

Nice. I have used Mobil 1 in the past and just wanted to know if it was a safe bet. I'll switch, if it hasn't already been done.

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[flash]

call pete on this one - he has some very disturbing information about the new mobil 1

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[banditsc]

Mobil1 EP or regular? Panorama just had a article on oils.

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[flash]

the "synthetic" one

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[banditsc]

[quote name='flash' post='62135' date='Oct 24 2008, 10:25 AM']the "synthetic" one[/quote]

Well there are two of them, Mobil1 EP and Mobil1. The EP has different additives.

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[flash]

call pete - i switched, so it became a non-issue for me, but he has some shots of some very ugly things, and can fill you in - i imagine a detailed post will be forthcoming

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[banditsc]

I switched also in the 968 but the availability of RedLine is kind of a pain. My 928 is running Mobil1 non EP, it takes about 8 quarts so being able to buy it in the gallon form at Walmart is nice. I think it was the reformulated EP line that was casuing some issues.

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[banditsc]

Ok, after doing some research and spending some time over at the Bob the Oil guy forum I found that Mobil1 has made some changes. They apparently realized that the people were unhappy with the ZDDP levels in the 15w50 oil and as such the reformulated it. It now has a 1200 part level, which is the level that RedLine uses and according the oil forum this was independently verified. The only oil with a higher level in the Mobil1 line is the Mobil 1 Racing

4T 10w40 which has 1600 parts. Anything below the 15w50 Mobil1 oil has a lower ZDDP and isn't recommended for engines like ours. Also the concencous seems to be to stick with the non EP version. If you have Mobil1 15w50 pre this change, you may not want to use it.



http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO..._1_15W-50_.aspx

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...oduct_Guide.pdf

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...;Number=1086285



If you need more ZDDP, you can get it here.. http://www.zddplus.com/

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[todzilla]

Whoa! Thanx for the heads up. I will make sure to do some research before I grab some Mobil 1. Is it clearly labeled as to whether it is the EP oil?

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[banditsc]

Yes, different cap color if I recall and it says EP on the bottle. Walmart is probably the best place to get it.

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