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Fuel line advice
#21

the adaptors thread into the arm. the shock bolt then threads into that. the adaptors move the shock and spring away from the arm and upper mounting point, and increase the effective rate of the spring by a couple percent in the process. they also provide a clearance for the spherical bearing at the bottom of the shock.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#22

Cloud, did you try a lower torque.... like 95ftlbs just to see if it still does not torque.
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#23

Yes, it continues to tighten to about 140 lb-ft, but stops tightening there. The other side comfortably holds 150 lb-ft.
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#24

Close enough.
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#25

Normally I would agree with you, but something is definitely wrong here, and this bolt is so ultra-critical in a torsion bar delete set-up like mine. It just feels like mush once it gets to about 140 lb-ft. Definitely not something I want to ignore.
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#26

According to this website, helicoils are available up to M39 or 1 1/4".



http://www.pr.com/company-profile/overview/7254
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#27

Cloud 968...I had a similar fuel leak after I replaced my upper fuel lines, same location. Leaked horribly. Turned out that the fittings were not assembled "straight" together, which meant that even though the connection was tight, it was not seated properly. I disassembled the connection, checked for damage, re-seated it correctly, and carefully tightened back up. Leak disappeared.
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#28

the torque spec is far less of a problem with the adaptors, which you should be running anyway. they do a much better job of handling the suspension load.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#29

[quote name='astroede' timestamp='1365250922' post='141014']

Cloud 968...I had a similar fuel leak after I replaced my upper fuel lines, same location. Leaked horribly. Turned out that the fittings were not assembled "straight" together, which meant that even though the connection was tight, it was not seated properly. I disassembled the connection, checked for damage, re-seated it correctly, and carefully tightened back up. Leak disappeared.

[/quote]

Did your leak start right after you removed and replaced your lines? The odd thing about mine is that I ran the car for at least 45 minutes before the leak occurred. If I had lined the fittings up incorrectly, I would have thought the leak would have started right away. I'll try it again before I install my new lines, in any event. Thanks.
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#30

I got the new fuel lines last night, but before I installed them, I removed the leaking line and carefully cleaned off the fitting's mating points (both on the line and on the fuel rail side), and made sure everything was alignend correctly, but it still leaked. I repeated the precess several times, and it continued to leak like a sieve, so I put the new line on, and the leak is gone. So my fuel line (on the inlet side) was actually bad.



But the car is still stranded at the shop. It was dark by the time I got the new fuel line on, and while my new headlights work, I discovered that the tail lights don't! Aaarrrgghhh!!!! Yet another thing to fix. I'll swing by the shop tonight before it gets dark and drive the car home, then start tearing into the wonky passenger side shock mounting bolt, the nonfunctional power steering, and now the tail lights, which worked before the project becan, and which I never directly touched. Oh what fun...
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