Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Keyless Entry System DIY
#21

greimann - thanks! i looked at the wiring behind the steering wheel last night and it is overwhelming to say the least. i really did not want to start cutting wires up under there. i think more than a minute of propping myself in that position and my back would go haywire!



brett - have you tested your relay? i was going to tackle the light flash tonight and your method would save me a lot of extra wire and manipulation of light switches! i think i'll head to radio shack at lunch. thanks for letting us know. this keyless is really pretty easy after all.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#22

[quote name='Brian' date='May 10 2005, 09:35 AM']brett - have you tested your relay?[right][post="4568"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Yes, the relay works like a charm. I have been running this configuration for about a week. While you are at Radio Shack don't forget to get the 20A inline fuse.



Brett
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#23

funny you mention the fuse... i've had one sitting in my bag of left over goodies for some time. now i finally have a use for it.

did you find a lead for the security horn/siren so that it beeps with the light flash? seems like it would all go together.

i'm guessing that the two leads for the lights are both in the extra bundle by the brain? i know you mentioned the colors. i'd feel a lot better not cutting the wires already in a harness.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#24

[quote name='Brian' date='May 10 2005, 01:46 PM']did you find a lead for the security horn/siren so that it beeps with the light flash?  seems like it would all go together.

i'm guessing that the two leads for the lights are both in the extra bundle by the brain?  i know you mentioned the colors.  i'd feel a lot better not cutting the wires already in a harness.

[right][post="4584"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



According to the factory wiring diagram, the alarm horn wire is the red/black wire going into the black plug of the alarm computer. A wire for the normal horn is not present in this location. I did not hook up any horn/siren out of personal preference.



The leads for the light are not in the extra bundle but are in the loom going to the alarm computer. I removed some of the wrapping from the black harness for better access to these wires. Instead of cutting the wires to splice, I stripped off the insulation and inserted the wire to be spliced between the strands. This is the same technique as shown in the bulldog manual. Solder, wrap the individual wires with electrical tape, and then rewrap the loom with friction tape for a factory look. The friction tape I have looks exactly like the factory stuff but I don't recall where I got it from.



Brett
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#25

WHen I did my installation, I connected to the alarm horn via the red/black wire. The problem I ran into was the RKE system I used doesn't produce a long enough pulse to get the alarm horn to chip all the time. The pulse can be extended, but I'll have to pull the system out again to do this. I plan on doing this when I chip the car.



As for parking lights, I decided to bail on trying to get to the wiring harness at the light switch. Instead I decided to tap into the turn signals and flash them instead. The turn signal wires are present at the same connector. The only wire I had to run outside of the footwell was the wire to the rear hatch. I'm not convinced that that was totally necessary either as it appears as if some form of rear locking signal is present at the alarm connector as well.



As for the friction tape, I used black hockey tape that should be available at most major sporting goods stores. It is very close to being a dead ringer for the tape uriginally used.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#26

i got the keyless system up and running with the trunk relay from greimann (thanks!). i hooked up the light flash as well. sure is nice.



also much thanks to brett for the suggestion on the dpdt relay. i never would have found that in a million years.



i do have a question about the light flash... my lights flash when i unlock the doors, but not when i lock them. is this the way it's supposed to be? it is certainly nice to have them come on when trying to find my car in the parking lot (amidst all the other 968 cabs!), but i was really hoping that they'd flash with the lock so that i know the system is engaged. the lights (if they're on) do go off when i hit the lock button. seems backwards.



anyone else have a two-wire plug with brown and white low-gauge wires coming out of the wiring loom in the footwell? i can't figure out what they're for. with all the things i'm finding from the previous owner, i want to make sure that he didn't disconnect anything important. my plug is just hanging loose.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#27

[quote name='Brian' date='May 11 2005, 11:05 AM']i do have a question about the light flash...  my lights flash when i unlock the doors, but not when i lock them.  is this the way it's supposed to be?  it is certainly nice to have them come on when trying to find my car in the parking lot (amidst all the other 968 cabs!), but i was really hoping that they'd flash with the lock so that i know the system is engaged.  the lights (if they're on) do go off when i hit the lock button.  seems backwards.[/quote]



My lights flash once when locking and then flash twice and hold the lights on for ~five seconds on unlock. I am using a Bulldog 1702. Are using the same? If you are using a 1702 maybe the software revision is slightly different.





Brett
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#28

Although, I love to take on this project, I've had so many wiring problems since I've had the car I just can't do it.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#29

No problem, just drive on over to Auburn and I'll do the wiring for you. The only thing I ask is that you bring Jessica. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Brett
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#30

I don't have to bring Jessica. She is a nursing student at Auburn.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#31

Larry, your avatar of Jessica does not do justice to her "chassis"



Please allow me to demonstrate the full scale version from you photobucket account!



oh to be 25 again.........



[Image: 99aa45a0.jpg]



Ok back to the keyless entry thread <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#32

yes, it is good to be twenty-five <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> . Jessica looks much better in this picture than any previous I've seen.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#33

New picture is not Jessica. It is Debra who I did a shoot with at the Tannehill Car Show last weekend. I have some better pictures of Jessica who is now Miss AlabamaUSA. I'll try to post some later this week. My Cab won 2nd Place in Class at the show, but I felt Debra was First in Class. I thought her picture on this post was much better than Brett's keyless entry picture! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> Brett, do you have a Cab or Coupe?
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#34

brett-

regarding the light flash. i have a bulldog 1702. just bought it a couple weeks ago. i wired my lights just like you did. it must be wired correctly if the lights work correctly when i unlock. i wonder if you're right about the programming. i also wonder if i got a defective unit??? would the factory alarm have anything to do with it, you think? my car is a 92 cab.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#35

[quote name='Larry Currie' date='May 17 2005, 06:44 AM']Brett, do you have a Cab or Coupe?

[right][post="4823"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



I've got a 94 midnight blue coupe, but it's very much a work in progress.



Brian, I can't explain why your lights aren't flashing on lock. I checked the wiring diagrams for a 92 and I see absolutely no reason why it wouldn't work exactly as it does for my 94. It seems that it must be something to do with the Bulldog itself. Maybe call Bulldog or see if you can't try another unit.



Brett
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#36

Have you tried putting a voltage meter directly on the output from the Bulldog? It's possible that the pulse is too short to energize the relay on the lock command. You may be able to see the voltage change with the meter as you lock the car. (Since its a short pulse you probably won't see the voltage swing all the way to 0 volts or 12+ volts.)



If you see the voltage change and the relay doesn't engage, you might want to try reprogramming the pulse time on the Bulldog. The manual I found on the 1702 showed an option for longer pulse widths. You might try that to see if it helps. Another option would be to do away with the relay and go with two diodes, which would switch faster than the relay.



[quote name='Brian' date='May 17 2005, 02:02 PM']brett-

regarding the light flash.  i have a bulldog 1702.  just bought it a couple weeks ago.  i wired my lights just like you did.  it must be wired correctly if the lights work correctly when i unlock.  i wonder if you're right about the programming.  i also wonder if i got a defective unit???  would the factory alarm have anything to do with it, you think?  my car is a 92 cab.

[right][post="4832"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#37

thanks for the tips, sat and brett. funny thing. i was in the garage last night. just for kicks, i played with the keyless a little. without driving, or even opening any doors, the lights flash just fine. flash once when i lock and twice and stay on when i unlock.

i am now wondering if it's something to do with voltage. maybe when i open and close the doors, the voltage draw from the dome light draws power from the light flash???

i'll play with it more tonight. i think i'll also toy with the programming on the bulldog. maybe the longer pulse will help, like sat was saying.

at least there was a glimmer of hope!
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#38

Another troubleshooting tip if you are using the Bulldog system. If it just stops responding to the remote one day, as mine just did, try unpluging it from the harness or pulling the fuse for about 2 or 3 minutes. Reconnect and try the remote. Sometimes the box loses the code to the remote and needs to be "re-booted" by unpluging.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#39

i know it's been a while, but i thought i'd fill in the keyless group with my progress on the light flash.

i don't know why i always have to try and reinvent the wheel. when i tapped into the wires at the brain, i discovered the hard way that you need to keep the similar colored wires tied together in their 3-wire groups or things go haywire. even the ground wires need to be kept together. when i first hooked up the bulldog, i just tapped into one of the wires for simplicity sake and nothing worked.

i finally got it up and running properly this weekend. lights flash, locks click crisply. i'm a very happy driver. the remote even works from a football field away. much nicer than my touareg that i have to be standing right next to the car.



one final (small) problem. i have one remote that just won't work. i've tried programming it a dozen times. while programming, i can see the lights flash and hear the brain click, but the remote is still dead. i was thinking of trying greimann's technique of unplugging the control unit and plugging it back in, but i just don't have the heart to tear the carpet up again. and then that darn bracket is a real pain to pull out from the car. so that leads me to a simple question.



do you guys know which fuse under the hood controls the wires to the security system? i would imagine that pulling that fuse is a lot easier than yanking the brains out (again!). it's probably labeled, but i thought i'd ask first.
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply
#40

I think I would just pull the battery cable and not worry about the fuse. The effect is the same, although you wil have to reprogram the stereo....
Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.
Reply


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread / Author Replies Views Last Post
Last Post by flash
11-13-2013, 10:26 PM

Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)