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Ignition switch / tiptronic selector both bad
#1

So....



In the last couple weeks I noticed that sometimes I could remove the key without turning all the circuits off. I noticed this because the car was beeping at me as if I had left the key in the ignition switch. Then I would reinsert the key and turn it counter clockwise with a bit more force, evidently this turned the cylinder farther so that the switch was all the way off.



A few days ago the tiptronic stick got very lumpy, meaning it didn't move smoothly anymore. Almost like a cable inside the sheath was breaking up, or I though perhaps some dirt feel down into the mechanism where the shifter is. Or maybe a sticky shift lock solenoid.



Then yesterday, I put the car in park, and the ignition I couldn't turn the key all the way to stop. (left it in the car for a quick jump into a store).



Then when I got home, this stuff appears to have turned into a mess. At first I couldn't turn the key to remove it. Then I tried to jiggle here and there and finally got it out. But again the cylinder is in the first power position, where it powers the radio, etc. And then the tiptronic shifter is now harder to move, like dirt stuck in some bushings, or maybe the cable thing. Funny thing is now I can move it back and forth without the key being in the car. And now when I insert the key, the ignitions switch won't turn at all!



Been trying to study this section on the workshop manual, starting on page 37-205 and the next few pages. Talks about some solenoids for the shifter and the ignition switch, and a cable back to the trans. Here is a graphic of the control system connections.



Anybody been in this ground before? Any insights or suggestions? And wondering if this is really a better job for the shop than me. Thanks!

Roland

   



Hmmm.... Wonder if there are some fuses or relays involved. Think I'll study that as well, but since it degraded rather than hard failure I didn't think of this at first.
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#2

Roland,

Pull relay G23. This is the R in the drawing above. See if this changes anything. This eliminates the need to have the brake pedal depressed when shifting out of park or neutral. I think your problem is with a different system. There is a mechanical cable that connects the ignition lock to the selector lever latch. I have not investigated how to defeat this system. This system in only on US and CA cars, so defeating these add ons are usually pretty easy. Mitch
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#3

Thanks for the suggestions Mitch. I have yet to carve out the time to debug this some more.

- How did you discover the cable that connects the ignition lock to the selector lever? This is an area that is very suspect with the symptoms I see.

- I also plan to study the dash disassembly reference material, I feel pretty certain I'll have to get at this cable somehow. (such as http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/body-24.htm)



Roland
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#4

Roland,



See below. From publication WKD 497 421, technical info for the introduction of the 968.



   
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#5

Figured I'd write what finally happened with this problem for the next guy. Here is the result of these set of symptoms. It wasn't the shifter cable, or ignition lock, or anything like that. The root cause is one of the transmission mounts was broken, and the trans was sagging and putting weight on the shifter cable causing it to be tight and feel like it was binding. I had to take it to the shop to get this diagnosed and fixed. My guess is that it was a left over from the accident (http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=5965). I haven't driven it but a few times since I noticed the problem, so there was no collateral damage. However this problem didn't appear until after about 3-4 months of pretty heavy driving with no problems, so I can't confirm that it was a leftover. Maybe the mount was weak or cracked and then finally broke with time. I still have a hard time envisioning how the car drove correctly with a transmission "hanging down".



They had to remove the transmission to complete the work. There was a bolt that sheared off, and although they dried to drill/reverse the stub out with the trans in, the area was too tight. So it included an R&R of the tip.



Roland

   

   
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#6

Well that's a drag, make sure they gave the other one a good look-over.
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