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how things stack up on my car
#1

over the last 11 years, i have had a number of different suspension setups in my car. it all started when i got it, and it had an uber rare set of eibach/techart 150/250 progressive springs on the front which lowered the front end about 1/2" more than i could lower the rear with the eccentrics. i didn't like that, so i began my journey down a very long, very slippery, and very expensive slope.



first, i tried some coilovers, completely spacing on the fact that the torsion bars were holding the car up, and all the coilovers would do at that point was lift the rear.



then, i deleted the torsion bars, making the mistake of installing delrin torsion tube bushings. those things were a pain in the butt, and ultimately i removed them and installed polybronze bushings, which then led to spherical bearings on the control arms, which led to spherical bearings at the front control arms and caster blocks.



i then had to change the struts to ones where i could adjust the ride height. the first time out it was koni yellows sports.



a number of spring rates were played with, each time requiring an alignment and corner balance.



finally, when i determined that i was not going to get what i wanted from the koni yellow sports, due to their fixed compression setting and gas charge preload, i swapped those out for double adjust able hydraulic konis. i also swapped out my single knob simultaneous adjustment shocks for dual adjustable ones.



a few more spring changes, and a few alignments later, i had a car that handled pretty darned well, and cornered great (the two terms meaning very different things)



after recently deciding to spend more time in the car, i felt that the handling could be improved. while both my shocks and struts were hydraulic, and so i didn't have to deal with the jittery jumpy thing that goes with gas shocks and struts, but given the spring rates i was running, it was still a bit rougher of a ride than i wanted. i really wanted the street feel of stock, but have it firm up in the corners. this was clearly a challenge to any car, and especially so on a 968.



what i decided to try was something i had done many many years ago, but had not messed with since. it's called a dual spring setup. basically you put one spring on top of another. generally you use a higher rate main spring, and a lower rate tender spring. together the result is a lower initial rate, and then a progression to your final rate. progressive springs would be better, but having them made would be time consuming, and since you would have to make a few sets until you figured out what you wanted, it would be cost prohibitive.



after doing a bunch of math, i found that what i had to do was a but unconventional, even with this setup.



i ended up in the front with a 300# main spring, and a 300# tender. this gave me a 150# initial rate, just slightly lower than stock, but by the time i loaded it up, it all but compressed the tender, which meant that only at the very first did i have the lower rate. mostly what it does is slow things down when the suspension drops. this means that dips and bumps are really absorbed very nicely.



in the rear, i have a 500# main spring, and a 150/550 progressive tender. after doing the math on effective rate geometry, and load compression, this gives me a 160 to 300 progressive rate. nicely balanced to the front. this is also all but fully compressed under static load, so again, i only see a little bit of what the lower rate is, which again does a nice job of taking the edge off of the bumps.



my shock and strut settings were able to be dialed back a touch, further smoothing things out.



the result so far is a very settled car with a very smooth ride, right up until i toss it into a corner. then it firms up nicely. i have to go out and really play with it, but so far, i am very pleased.



before you run out and think "cool - that's for me" realize that this package would run you about $3.5k by the time you are done. not for the faint of heart to be sure.



p.s. - tomorrow i go in for my 15th alignment/corner balance in the 11 years i've had the car - woohoo!
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#2

Oh hell, you should have left everything stock and just not "toss it" in the corners. $ 3.5 K saved, not to mention avoiding 15 alignments, and you would have been just as happy, LOL
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#3

Sounds great, Bob. Still using the Carreras and the Konis?
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#4

yup



installing the same struts and shocks on another car shortly
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#5

You could've just bought KW V3 and saved a ton of money. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> Your front/rear wheel rates sound perfect for a 968 with staggered tire setup and is basically 50# less than front/rear main springs on the KW V3. I'm also gonna design a dual-spring setup for next season except stiffer with a square tire setup and damped with Moton CS...



What spring lengths are you using for each main and tender?
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#6

Would you tell us a little about your sway bars? I think the stock ones are a little soft, but I want to maintain a good balance between ride quality and cornering.
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#7

kws are gas - gas sucks on a 968. hydraulic is much better. not many to choose from though, so most people get stuck with gas.



i'm already too stiff for autocross.



main spring lengths are 8. tenders are 3.7f and 4.2r



my swaybars are custom, and not available, but a lot stiffer than M030.



suspensions are my thing. so far i haven't found anybody else out there who has a clue how these cars actually work, and what to do with them. all i seem to see are over-sprung, over-lowered, and over cambered cars, with stupid solid upper mounts and gas everywhere. what a mess. if anybody stopped to do the math on these, they would find they are going about it all wrong.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#8

While hydraulic is much better I am quite happy with my KWV3 setup over the last 7 years or so. Granted that is only 12k miles or there about but handles fine for me and the rebound setting eats up the irregularities in the roads with no problem (including 95 through Philly).
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#9

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1404104053' post='159328']

kws are gas - gas sucks on a 968. hydraulic is much better. not many to choose from though, so most people get stuck with gas.



i'm already too stiff for autocross.



main spring lengths are 8. tenders are 3.7f and 4.2r



my swaybars are custom, and not available, but a lot stiffer than M030.



suspensions are my thing. so far i haven't found anybody else out there who has a clue how these cars actually work, and what to do with them. all i seem to see are over-sprung, over-lowered, and over cambered cars, with stupid solid upper mounts and gas everywhere. what a mess. if anybody stopped to do the math on these, they would find they are going about it all wrong.

[/quote]





I can second this. My car is so much better after I softened up the front damper to 3/4 instead of max.
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#10

it really is amazing at how many people just play "follow the leader" though.



the key to setting up this car is realizing that it is a unibody car, and working with that, rather than fighting it. the suspension design and setup is not the same on a unibody as it is on a ladder frame, a full frame, or on a space tube frame. but, shock makers don't want you to think like that, and most shops and such are not engineers, or know how to figure things out on paper.



it is further exacerbated by the misconception that because a driver is winning, that it must be his setup. there are some great drivers out there that could win in a shopping cart. they would be even faster with a better setup though.



even more common is the willingness of an owner to settle for less than he could have. a lot of this comes from budget. mistakes in setup can cost thousands to correct. most people just can't do it twice, and have a hard enough time once. with as much bad advice as is floating around out there, it makes it really hard to set these cars up, given that not everybody wants the same thing, and there isn't a lot from which to choose.



the big thing to remember though, is that you set up a street car differently than an autocross car (though they are pretty close), and very differently from a track car. you can't use the same stuff for a track car that you would use on an autocross car. they are polar opposites in goal. one car wants to mitigate weight distribution, and the other wants to use it to its advantage.



of course, some people want to see what they can do with something, regardless of what it is, or how ill suited it might be. personally, i would want to go as fast as possible, not just as fast as possible with a particular car or a particular setup, but i also understand the aforementioned financial limitations that force people to try to multipurpose a car.



tough situation
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#11

Flash,



This is some really interesting information, but the part that escapes me is the "how." I've looked, and I can't find any good books on the subject of suspension set-up that offer a lot of real-world, practical information. It would be great if there were a software program that would allow you to plug in your input parameters - type of car (which would automatically bring with it wheelbase, track, weight, suspension design, center of gravity height, chassis mounting point locations, stock horsepower, etc.) intended use, wheel size, corner weights, etc., that would provide as outputs recommended alignment settings, ride height, spring rates, options for shocks and struts, recommended roll bar diameters, etc. (I know, that's a lot of et cetera's...). Ideally, such a program would allow you to make inputs where your individual car differs from the stock defaults.



But lacking that, and lacking the 95 years+ of experience setting up cars that you have, what's the average schmuck who just wants their car to handle as capably and predictably as possible on a road course to do? I for one went the "follow-the-leader" route, and the car seems to handle very well (at least that's what all the instructors at the driving academy say, with gushing enthusiasm - maybe they're trained to do that, lol), but I don't doubt that with rigorous analysis it could be made even better. But how, exactly?
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#12

lol - fair enough



if there were such a gadget, what would i do with my cape?



seriously, this is exactly why good race tuners make good money.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#13

But the funny thing is that the guy who I went with for my set-up info is one of the most reputable race tuners in the business, both in the Porsche and BMW worlds, yet if I gave you my car's settings, I'm sure you'd be completely appalled, and recommend that I change everything. And you're not alone; anytime I talk about my car's suspension settings with someone who's very knowledgeable and experienced in the area, they recommend something completely different. And I really mean completely - drastic variations in spring rates, alignment settings, ride height, the whole shooting match, among people who are all very successful at this stuff. All for the exact same bloody car!



Mind you, I have no plans to change anything on my car anytime soon. My number 1 priority is to maximize my seat time over the next few months, and really develop a feel for what my car is telling me about how it's behaving, and only then start tweaking things. And even then, until and unless I start racing competitively, I'm not sure it's worth it, unless I discover a really bad tendency of my car that had eluded me and the instructors before.
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#14

Put Hoosiers on Cloud and your suspension setup will rock. Now I don't mean to have a tire discussion here.
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#15

cloud - that's why i tell everybody to keep their stuff pretty stock for a while, until they learn to "surf" the track. with a stiff suspension, you can't feel the weight shift as easily, so it takes longer to learn how to twitch the car, or drift the turn, rather than have to brake to slow down, and how to roll a chicane at full throttle.



back on topic



i got the car corner balanced yesterday. set the shocks too. it's going to take me a while to get used to this. it really floats over dips and such now, a lot more than it used to. there is no more jarring on bumps either. firms up very nicely though in a sweeper. i may truly have nailed the best of both worlds.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#16

When switching to the Koni sports(yellow struts) are you supposed to reuse the boot and rubber stop from the EOM Strut? Is it optional or mandatory?
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#17

not mandatory. in fact, i would not use the OEM foam stop. i prefer the more dense yellow ones. the rubber boot is a dust boot. my koni yellows came with a disk instead. you do need some form of dust protection though, to keep it from getting down in the seal and buggering it.



back on topic:



after a couple of months of driving the car with this setup, and many adjustments of the shocks and struts, i think i finally have it nailed down. it was hard finding the balance between a soft ride and too much body movement, but i think i'm there. the car rides smoothly, absorbing the bumps in the road, but sets up nicely when i throw it into a corner. the squeaking i had from the shocks is gone. the rear bump is a bit firmer than i would like, but it's not bad at all. any softer though and the front of the car moves around too much on big dips.



definitely better than the single fixed rate spring setup i had before.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#18

Bob, I'm trying to figure out how you fit an 8" main spring and 4.2" tender spring on your rear shocks. My Moton CS rear shocks have just about 7.625" between spring seats fully extended so I'm thinking about an Eibach ERS double tender spring stack of 150# or 250# with 3.8" free length over 625# as the main with 3.85" free length. This would result in .25" of available tender / comfort rate with 2 passengers in the car as I'm still running torsion bars as well. The front struts can take about 12.5" of spring so there's no problem here.



Where did you find that progressive rear tender spring? One of the challenges is sacrificing ride comfort with a stiffer tender that actually has travel available at static load. When I run calculations with a softer tender like 150# and 3.85" free length then it's fully compressed and won't absorb bumps, only dips. Am I thinking about this correctly?



Also, how did you model your setup? I had to build a tool that calculates dual spring setup rates, spring length, static height and compression under load as well as triple spring rear setup [dual in series + additive torsion bar] so that I can play with various springs that are available on the market. I'm also modeling front/rear motion ratio with different spring setups but this changes with tire stagger vs square which is a bit of guessing at this point.
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#19

the shocks i use have about 13" between seats. you won't be able to do anything stacked with the motons. those are really designed for heavy linear springs on a track only anyway. you really can't successfully run them on the street, and running stiff springs in autocross is backwards. if you are using torsion bars, 625# is WAY too stiff in the rear for anything but full race. it really costs speed anywhere else. stiff for track - soft for autocross. it doesn't seem to matter how many times people say it though. somehow some people continue to try to use a track setup in autocross, and they could be a lot faster if they didn't. i see them dropping tire pressure too, and they should be adding it instead. oh well. i had to learn the hard way too, and ignored for a long time what the fastest guy out there kept telling me, and he kept beating me. didn't matter what car either. turns out he was right. i jumped in his car (which had an identical motor to mine, built by the same guy to the same specs) and was a lot faster right away. i peeled a lot of time off my laps by finally doing what he said. for what it's worth, i am running 300# wheel rate in the rear, and it would be a touch too stiff for autocross, though not horrible. the front 300 is not bad with the tires and wheels i'm running, though i would need to run a smaller front sway bar, or disconnect it altogether. i definitely would not go any stiffer on either end.



the progressive spring is from eibach. it's something like 5" long though



the tender should be almost compressed when at rest. this allows the outside spring to extend smoothly and return without jounce. so, your thinking about only working in dips is not that far off. it is mostly used on extension.



i have a couple of different tools to do some of the math, but i've been doing it so long that i do a lot of the math in my head now.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#20

Anymore thoughts on a dual spring setup in the rear while keeping the torsion bars - street driving....possible spring choices and shock upgrades from stock?

 

thx Sam

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