[Bulti]

Nope, I ordered just the plate. But before I paid anything I asked to have tho colour confirmed at the warehouse in Germany. No more green ones. They just sell you the next best thing.

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[flash]

that sucks.  that's exactly how the sachs lists got wrong.  even in the workshop manual, they list the wrong plate numbers as "alternatives".  yes, they technically "work" in as much as you step on the pedal and it disengages the drive, but the feel is all wrong, and wear and tear on other components is increased.

 

the last time i had to order one, i had to have it sent from germany

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[Bulti]

Yeah.  I won't say the whole of Germany is absent of green ones, just the last time my attempt was in vein.  I ended up with a used one.  A very good one, but used nonetheless.  I even tried at the Sachs factory but to no avail.  Pitty.

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[flash]

unfortunately, this is one of the factors that led me to moving on. i went through this with the mgb.  as standard maintenance parts became harder to find, my "enthusiasm level" waned.  really, it was never as much about what the car was or was not capable of, as much as it was me not willing to deal with it anymore.  admittedly another contributing factor was that i was too immersed in the 968 world, and ultimately hit "overload".  most people will not go through that.  in retrospect, i often wonder if the outcome would have been different, had i just been an average owner.

 

back on topic - just make sure they actually check the stripe, before shipping to you.

 

addition to my list above:  if you are doing the job yourself, you will also need a 968 specific clutch tool, and as you will want to bleed the clutch, a motive power bleeder (other stuff does not really work)

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[Bulti]

And by clutch tool, he means the tool to keep the flywheel from rotating as you undo the bolts of the clutch.  As for bleeding the clutch, for some reason the threads of the bleeder valve are letting air in, no matter what I do.  If I make sure that can't happen -by applying a small amount of teflon tape on the thread- both sucking fluid through or pushing it from above works great.

 

That being said, using teflon for this purpose can lead to problems if you are not carefull.  Brake fluid will disolve it fast. So can I say NOT RECOMMENDED!

Despite that, and in my case, it is the only thing I found to really work.  And I spent many hours and ways to get the damned thing air-free.

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[flash]

correct on the tool

 

if you use a motive power bleeder, it is ALWAYS under positive pressure, and air CANNOT get back in.  that is why it is so important to use one.  ALL other methods fail.  it is really a very simple process, with the right tool.  i have done many clutch jobs, and countless flushes on this system.  i have yet for one to give me any trouble whatsoever.  it can be a royal pain in the butt though any other way.

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[Bulti]

I would think so too on the power bleeder for some strange reason, unless I do something about the threads, air is still finding it's way in.


It shouldn't be possible, but I cannot get the damn thing to work properly if I don't do it. The rate of flow would be insufficient with more air bubbles than anything else. Sealing the threads fixes that.

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[flash]

do you start with fluid in the bleeder?

 

if everything is right, it is physically impossible to have air enter the system, while fluid is pouring out.  if you don't crack the screw enough though, it can happen.  it should be a solid stream of fluid.

 

you may have a clogged bleed screw.  i've seen that before, and it can cause problems.  i would replace it.

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[Rap]

Bob, I'm so confused. I can't imagine you being an average anything. But perhaps I'm just wrong!

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[Bulti]

Re fluid - d'uh


I have the same problem everytime and it I know it defies physics in a way - yet it is like so. The further I unscrew the bleeder, the more bubbles appear. Again - sealing the threads fixes that


I changed the bleeder screw already. No idea what is going on.

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[flash]

the slave cylinder threads are probably shot, damaged, worn.....you get the idea

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[Bulti]

Could be, maybe. But the slave is no more than 4 or 5 years old, and my brake bleed screws act in the same way. Not sealing the threads means a difficult bleed on the brakes and an impossible one on the clutch.

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[2CS67]

I ordered as recommended by MCL968 using Pete at RS Barn and Troy at EBS Racing.  Both shipments scheduled to arrive on Tuesday and hope to have it done on Thursday!

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[Paul j]

I’m confused I’m trying to bleed the brakes and can’t get it free of air ……I need to do the clutch too so which first and how?

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I’m confused I’m trying to bleed the brakes and can’t get it free of air ……I need to do the clutch too so which first and how?i …and do I need the power bleeder I have just a regular bleeder…..

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