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Heater Valve Replaced
#1

Been noticing sluggish/sporadic response from the temp control knob for a couple years. Recently also noticed a hissing noise coming from the heater control solenoid in the left footwell with the temp knob commanding full cold. Finally decided to replace the heater valve as a troubleshooting measure. Way cheap from pelican parts, about $19. Had to remove oil filter for access, so changed the oil too. I elected not to drain the coolant first, stuffed a rag firmly in the oil filter receiver to prevent coolant from contaminating the oil system. Lost about 2 quarts of coolant when the heater valve was removed. Came off easily despite being 12 years old! Accidentally broke the vacuum line (very brittle) while repositioning the power steering reservoir, reqd extra trip to NAPA for some 5/32" vacuum hose. I was able to reuse the rubber coolant hoses on inlet/outlet of heater valve, but needed new hose clamps, the originals had to be (carefully) twisted and cut off. Reconnected everything, then followed the owners manual procedure for bleeding air from the cooling system, which took a good 15 minutes with the engine at idle. Ops checked the temp knob, it responds like new, each click produces a discernible temp change from the vents, hissing noise also gone.
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#2

I carry a spare HCV in each of my cars. It's good you got it before it completely broke and you lost all your coolant far from home.
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#3

good show. . . I was also fortunate when I replaced my hcv. A friend busted his on the track and ended up needing a top engine rebuild. . . not fun. . .
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#4

[quote name='ether_joe' post='31878' date='Mar 4 2007, 03:26 AM']good show. . . I was also fortunate when I replaced my hcv. A friend busted his on the track and ended up needing a top engine rebuild. . . not fun. . .[/quote]



I was more fortunate than your friend and less fortunate than you - mine blew out with the engine at the redline on an autocross course (should have upshifted to 3rd!), made a big cloud of white smoke and left a trail of fluid behind but didn't blow the head. Only lost about a pint of fluid too. Thankfully one of the other 968 drivers had a spare with him.



Fun repair, everyone came over to find out if the car was dead.
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#5

A total metal unit makes a repair and an improvement over stock. The all metal heater valve will not crack apart like the plastic one will due to being so close to the exhaust header heat. Details in the forum search engine.

brian
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#6

Interesting this topic came up again. I read on the forum last fall about this weak link in the 968. So I purchased a spare, as was recommended, but hadn't yet changed it. Until it blew out last week when I was two blocks from a German car shop. They installed my part and new coolant. If I hadn't had the spare I would have been stranded until they sourced the part. If it had blown out earlier in the day I would have been stranded in the middle of the Arizona desert waiting for a tow. Moral - buy, and install, a new one now...
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#7

When replacing the plastic version of the heater valve with the metal type, which way does it orient. The originals inlet/ outlet are lined-up, the metal versions inlet/outlet are offset. Does direction of water flow matter over the valveface or if the valve pulls against pressure?
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#8

I've been trying to buy the all metal units but I haven't found them anywhere. In fact, the auto store's computer will show a pic of the all metal unit, they'll order, and a mostly plastic one will come in. I'd sure like to find a source for the all metal ones.



Harvey
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#9

I figure the first plastic one lasted 12 years so I'll be OK with another plastic one for awhile. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#10

I agree, a plastic one will last long enough <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#11

I based my decision to go with the plastic one on two things



1) I could pick it up that day at the dealership and they gave me a wholesale price because they thought I was calling from a shop. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



2) Discussions with a well respected 968 mechanic who had reservations about the metal one after playing with one. I don't remember details but he agreed the plastic one would last a long time on both of my cars.
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#12

I have a metal heater value and I am waiting for warmer weather to install. It has the part # 9843-12.

I believe that I got it from Jeff @ Sunset Porsche Parts.

Brian
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#13

Grrrr.. guess what just went on my car, after I had gotten all that work done <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/mad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

I was lucky enough that it happened more or less in the city, where there are plenty of gas stations and I managed to limp home. Basically I call good ol Mom for help, she drove over with some large containers filled with water, and I filled the resevoir up, but it was leaking BAD: pouring out almost as fast as I was pouring it in. The 3 - 4 mile trip to her place consisted of about 5 stops on the side of the road to refill the resevoir and drive the car untill the needle hit about 100. What a PAIN! I know its dangerous, but I was carefull to drive at least at low revs in 6th so there was plenty of airflow, idling when coasting etc. I just hope I was carefull enough.



But to top it all off, I am carrying a spare HCV in the trunk, and I asked the mechanic to replace it. They didn't because they didn't have that 4" peice of hose that connects to the metal tube. "We should get it in a few days", gah! A few days was all it took!



I'm REALLY hoping its the HCV, and not some more critical problem, but there is coolant all over the right side of the engine, on the hood, on the back vanity cover, etc. So I'm pretty sure from what I have heard these things have a habit of spraying, well, something is definitly spraying.



Thankfully my bro-in-law is coming by tomorrow, and he's an ex-mechanic. I'm gonna need to catch him before he leaves and ask if he can bring some tools. I'll replace this damn thing myself. This little cheap peice of plastic is not gonna stop me from enjoying my car <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/mad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#14

can't remember exactly when it was.. may be one year ago.. but I replaced my HCV with a new one ( also the OEM -plastic ) after reading all the alarming posts suggesting that after 13 years and 80k miles the old one was on borrowed time. I did not discard the old one since it was working fine so I'm keeping it in the trunk just in case the new one cracks, though it sounds like it should last for years and years . I don't track the car so there may be a lower risk as well <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/blink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#15

Looks like its way too tight in there for me to be able to change that HCV with some some screw drivers, and I don't have the ability to take the oil filter off either <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> So its plan B: go get some crazy glue, and glue that f*er back together and hope it lasts long enough to get across town.



Edit: and on top of that, my family is now starting to tell me to sell this "pos" as its past its prime, etc , etc. Needless to say it is getting pretty frustrating. Curse of the franken-porsche?
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#16

I can empathize with the pressure to get something newer. My wife couldn't understand why I wanted to purchase a 9-year old car instead of a new one. The bottom line, though, is that I'm happier with the 968 than I would be with (almost) any other car - and that's irrespective of the "investment" I've made in the 968. But, things do happen, and if you can get it right and then stay ahead of the impending failures (by replacing things before they fail), I think you can get lots of pleasure from the 968 driving experience.
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#17

I gave up and decided to get the car towed. The HCV is just too baddly split to be able to fix it while its on the car. $250 for towing later grrrr <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/dry.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Yikes, I'm paranoid <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/ohmy.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> The car is at the shop (well, infront of it), and it doesn't open until monday morning. The location is pretty secluded too, even though there is a field and a Rona right next door. Hindsight tells me I should have removed the DME to prevent the car from being startable, but I guess that's what the immobilizer is for. Still, with no coolant the car won't get very far. Put the keys in an envelope, and tossed it as far as I could through the mail slot.



It'll be a restless sleep tonight.
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#18

Ok, looks like all is well: HCV replaced, and new hoses and clamps. Car runs like a dream, like it should <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

All in all that stupid part cost me $550 <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/dry.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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