[Kim]

The drivers side headlight won't go down. If you just push it it will fall back into place and the locking thing will click. When I pull the latch to pull the light forward I can see the motor and linkage and they all work. It seems as though the motor is just pulling the latching thing out and leaving the light up. Can't see anything broken and there are no "spare parts" lying around the light. I tried to push the light harder into the locking spot in the hopes that it had just wiggled loose but to no avail. It has been very hot here lately and I wonder if the heat has allowed the locking part to expand enough that the motor just pulls it out rather than pulling the light back. Any ideas?

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[Kim]

May have sorted it out. Seems like the heat has expanded something such that the marginal decrease in friction between the two parts (the mount on the motor arm and the receiving part on the headlight) have just got loose enough that they disengage when the motor tries to pull the headlight back in. Probably a "safety thing" built in so the motor doesn't get damaged if the light gets stuck. A bit of lubrication to make the headlight move easier seemed to fix it. Over and out.

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[bob blackwell]

Good job diagnosing your problem and finding an inexpensive solution Kim. More things are going to start going wrong with our 968s as they get older and more used. My heater core ruptured a few weeks ago, leaving tell-tale drops of coolant on the passenger footwell. It is blocked off right now while the new part is back-ordered to Germany. I still love the car, but am resigned to having more maintenance and repair to do as time goes by. Good luck, Bob Blackwell.

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[Kim]

I agree Bob. I feel sometimes like I am driving an exotic - drive for a day, spend two days fixing what broke. I still have one nagging issue - my volt meter seems to vary between "normal" (about 13.5V) to "low" (about 12.2V) with no real rhyme nor reason for it. In a given 10 minutes it can be from one to the other. I don't think that anything is on or shorting out but am not sure how to tell. I did have all the ground points cleaned a while back. Could the voltage regulator be the problem? Is there a "sender" for the voltage? I replaced the sender for the oil pressure and the pressure went up a lot to the point that the big red warning light stopped coming on at idle. I am reluctant to pull the gauge cluster out again as, with the car getting old, it is only a matter of time until something breaks that will cost a lot to fix. I may have to do it, however, if I can't figure out what is going on.



Also, does anyone know why in my white car (it has always done this) the charging light won't do out and the voltage won't go up until the car is revved a bit but the blue car, same year, charges as soon as the engine fires?

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