[968CS_HKG]

Hi Guys



Help needed, I am doing an alignment for track day this weekend but the maximum rear camber I could get is -0.8*. Is there anyway to achieve -2.0 without further lowering the car??



Thank you!

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[Dubai944]

You should be able to get a lot more with the normal adjustment. Did you do it yourself or did someone else tell you that was the most you could get?

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[flash]

agreed. i can't get less than -1.6 degrees at my ride height (i'm not all that low either. in face, i just raised it up a bit) . -2 is easy.

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[968CS_HKG]

I use a professional wheel alignment shop, no matter what he does, he has no way to get more than -0.8. Would it be the height of the rear?

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[flash]

could be. while there is a more accurate way of reading rear ride height, about 26.5" (673mm) from ground to top of rear wheel arch is typical for stock (20mm less for M030)



you definitely should be able to get nearly -3 though. something sounds very wrong.



just to eliminate the obvious, the camber adjuster is the one where the sway bar mounts

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[Dubai944]

Has he aligned the rear end on these cars before? I recently had to explain to a 968 owner here in Dubai how to set toe on the rear end after he took the car to a professional race shop that has set up a bunch of race cars, but couldn't adjust the toe properly on the 968 rear end.



If they can't adjust the camber properly chances are they will screw up your toe settings as well. Or, just possibly, they didn't know how to move the camber further while keeping the toe settings in place and decided not to go any further than -0.8. I've seen this before and it's just unfamiliarity with the way the adjustments work.

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[968CS_HKG]

You are right, he has no experience in 968 as there is no many left in Hong Kong. Could you guys help and shine some light?



Thank you x 10000!

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[flash]

for starters, the workshop manual shows some diagrams as to where things are. there is a link here in the 968 Library in the 968 Forums Pub that will take you to a site that hosts it.

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[Dubai944]

Don't know if this will help or confuse you, but this is part of an email exchange I had on the subject recently. Bear in mind I use my own laser toe, laser string and a magnetic camber guage. A bit more old fashioned than an alignment shop, but the principals of adjustment are the same. Most obvious is the camber eccentric won't turn to allow adjustment unless the lock nuts are loosened, amybe they were trying to turn it from underneath while it was sitting on the rack with the control arm still locked up. I have seen that too:

1. Make sure you adjust ride height and corner balance before doing camber and toe adjustments. Also remember to disconnect sway bars before starting any suspension set up.
   
   
2. I first take a static camber measurement while the car is on the ground, so I know how much and in which direction I want to change it, or what it is, if I want to make sure it stays the same.
   
   
3. I measure the total rear toe and decide how much it needs to move. I also check the thrust alignment to see if the adjustment needs to be made equally on both sides of the car, or only on one side.
   
   
4. I then lift the car, remove the wheel and put a magnetic camber gauge on the hub. The camber reading at that point is not important other than to give a reference to judge the amount of camber change taking place while doing the adjustments.
   
   
5. When you look at the suspension with the rear wheel off you see the control arm bolted to the spring plate with three locking nuts just in front of the brake disc. The two rear locking nuts are just conventional bolts, but the forward locking nut also doubles as the camber adjustment because it attaches to a large eccentric bolt on the other side. When undoing or tightening the front lock nut, you need to keep a spanner on the rear eccentric bolt head to stop it from moving at all; otherwise it will change your camber settings. This is important to remember when you finish your adjustments; you always tighten the rear lock nuts first, to lock the control arm in place before tightening the forward one to avoid screwing up your settings. For the same reason you should always undo the front lock nut first, while the control arm is still locked in place by the rear nuts to avoid an unintended change.
   
   
6. With the control arm loose, toe is adjusted by sliding the control arm forward or backward in relation to the spring plate. There is a hole in the control arm just behind the front lock nut and a matching slot in the spring plate behind. Porsche sell a special tool that you stick in the hole and turn to lever the arm forward or backwards. I made the same thing from a 32mm bolt cut in half with a smaller bolt drilled into the end offset from the centre. Works fine but the Porsche tool would probably be nicer. Without such a tool you will have great difficulty adjusting toe. I have done it with a pry bar through the slot, but it is difficult to get fine adjustments.
   
   
7. Toe adjustment is very sensitive. You only need a tiny movement in either direction to change the toe settings significantly. To do this accurately I use a tape measure and I measure from a fixed point on the end of the torsion bar (any fixed point will do) to the edge of the brake rotor at its closest point. I turn the toe tool and watch the measurement increase if I want more toe-out, or decrease if I want more toe-in. A 1mm difference at the rotor can change toe by as much as 20 minutes (1/3 degree), depending on where you are measuring from. As I aim for only about 10 minutes (1/6 degree) toe in maximum on each wheel, you can see that we are only talking about tiny movements of a half to a couple of mm at a time.
   
   
8. While you are adjusting the toe, the camber will change unless you control it. That is why I use a camber gauge on the hub while working on toe, so I can continually adjust the camber eccentric to bring it back to the same reading. If you want to adjust rear camber, you turn the eccentric bolt on the back of the front locking nut to get the amount of change you want. Then you have to recheck the toe setting and adjust to bring it back to where you want it.
   
   
9. Once you think you have adjusted the toe in or out by the right amount and you are happy the camber is where you wanted it, you hold the camber eccentric still while tightening the rear locking nuts, then tighten the front locking nut, drop the car and see what you have. If it’s spot on, go have a beer. If not repeat the process.
   
   

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