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Front seat removal
#1

Tried to search here and Clark's garage first but returned nothing.



How hard is it to remove a front seat? I have a bad rattle from under there somewhere and just can't see anything. I first thought that it was in the door panel but now an convinced it is in/under the seat. Might be an unused amp? My car has the partially power passenger seat with manual fore/aft and backrest tilt.
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#2

Simple. There are 6 allen head screws, 2 electrical connections and the seat belt connection. It is easiest to raise the seat up, push it back, remove the front bolts, tilt the back forward, move the seat forward, remove rear 4 bolts, tilt bottom and back backwards, remove electrics, and remove.



HTH
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#3

The job is also much easier if you use a 6mm allen head socket instead of the 90 degree type allen wrench.



mike
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#4

^ +1, I did mine this sping to clean the carpet and it is as easy as stated above.
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#5

Thanks guys.
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#6

Be very careful to ensure that you get a good "bond" between the allen socket and the seat bolt. If the seat has never been removed, you risk rounding the allen portion of the bolt as they are really torqued down. If you do strip the bolt, you now have more issues to deal with. Makes sure you "seat" the allen socket into the bolt and take your time. You may want to consider buying some new bolts from Sunset or another dealer so you can have fresh replacements ready if you happen to damage any existing bolts during removal. If you are able to remove all the bolts, and you slightly damage any of them, they will just be that much more prone to further damage if you have to remove them again. Overall, the bolts aren't terribly expensive, so I replaced all of mine when I had to replace a seat motor.



Upon reassembly, make sure you use the original washers (if any) that were with the bolts. Don't substitute other washers. If you do, you run the risk of having the seat stick on the raised bolt head due to a potentiall thicker washer which has raised the bolt head. This also creates other issues that are not fun to deal with. Don't ask me how I know....



Also, the stock seats are heavy and bulky. Place a blanket or towel over your sills to help protect them when you remove the seats from the car.



Other than that, as others have said, seat removal is very simple.
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#7

in addition to making sure the allen tool is seated all the way into the head of the bolt, a quick tip is to TIGHTEN the bolts a touch first - this will crack them loose
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#8

I usually do that by mistake when I confuse my left and right. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#9

lefty loosey, righty tighty.



Brian
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#10

That part I remember, remmbering which direction is left and right is the problem. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#11

white line on finger is on left hand.
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#12

I don't wear any jewelry including a watch or my wedding band fortunately my wife knew that so we only spent $19 on it. Last time I had it on my wife informed the right hand is not where I was supposed to have it. LOL

She now wears it as a thumb ring on occasion.



Back on topic the stuff above is good advice- use a socket allen wrench and make sure it is well seated before turning. If they have not been out before tighten them a little to crack them loose.
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#13

one more peice of advice. when reinstalling the seats, make sure the bolts are absolutly straight. if they aren't they could strip out the nuts inside the floor, and in order to fix those the floor needs to be cut up. not fun at all
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#14

[quote name='Mark' post='39349' date='Aug 2 2007, 11:39 PM']If they have not been out before tighten them a little to crack them loose.[/quote]

You might want to try spraying a little penetrant (I used PB blaster for many of the bolts for my clutch cylinder replacemrnt, and it seemed to work very well) on the bolts first, and letting it soak in overnight.
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#15

Thanks for all the help. I only got the first response and then did it without seeing the others. Just spotted them now. Fascinating perspectives through. It came out easily, I only had a 90 degree Allen key, no problems. I actually didn't even need to take it out, only push it back out of the way. The rattle was the unused amp under the seat - the bracket holding it down came a bit loose. I just removed it since I no longer need it. I wish I had the time to retrieve the DIN plug that was attached and which ran under the carpet but I just shoved it back in tightly under the carpets. I have a CD-2 CD player from my 92 convertible that supposedly works but have no amp (maybe that one is also still in that car too). No more rattles. Wahoo. I may now buy the 6 mm Allen socket, have all the troubles that you guys did (just because it sounded like my kind of fun), and take the other amp out from under the passenger seat. If so, I have two original amps to give away to anyone who want to pay the shipping. Or to trade for new seat bolts and floor work to remove stripped brackets.
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