[oppositelock]

I am resealing the front of the engine while doing belts, rollers, water pump, cam chain, ramps, etc. Is it easier to pull the oil pump and replace the seal, or fight my old rock hard seal from the front? I do not want to gouge the aluminum oil pump, or score the sleeve the seal rides on. It is not clear from PET or workshop manual what is behind the oil pump. What have you guys done to remove the front crank seal? Thanks for all the help, Mitch

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[Scott Collins]

Hey oppositelock,

I pulled mine out the typical way - carefully, with some tugging and prying. Took time to "wake it up" and get it to move. You are correct that you do not want to score the shaft or anything else for that matter. That would not be good.

The new one went in by tapping it in with a large socket. If I remember, I also replaced the rubber o-ring seal.

(That was the first time - second time, I had RS Barn do it. They also replaced the oil pump race, which had a groove and was causing a leak. I was happy to not be on my back trying to yank that thing out. Probably took Max about 10 minutes.....).

Best of luck.

-Scott

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[Lear35A]

I can't help with a method for replacing the front seal in place. In case it might help, though, here's a clear view of what it looks like.

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[kwikt]

How did you get the aluminum gear off????

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[Lear35A]

What do you mean aluminum gear?

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[kwikt]

Never mind. Got it off with a puller.

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[oppositelock]

Kwikt probably means the timing belt pulley. It can stick, but is easily removed with a puller. Follow up on the front seal, I bought a right angle drill at Harbor Freight and drilled a hole, put in a screw and popped out the seal. I am also replacing the oil pump drive as it has a small wear groove and I am paranoid because Scott had to do his twice. Mitch

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[kwikt]

Well just completed the waterpump, front seals and O rings, timing and balance belt job. Not too bad but took longer than expected. Started er up and bled the coolant so tomorrow I'll go for a little cruise.

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[Lear35A]

Way to go!

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