[Cloud9...68]

Here's one I've never seen before. I'm getting ready to install my newly ceramic-coated exhaust manifolds, take the sealing rings out of their packages, and I notice they're not perfectly symmetrical rings - one side has a lip, where the metal curls around, and the other side is seamlessly round. Which side goes toward the cylinder head, and which side goes toward the exhaust? Does it matter? As usual, the manual doesn't say anything about it, nor are there any helpful pictures in the Katalog, or on Pelican Parts.



Also, they're not a snug fit to the head, as I had hoped they would be, so I'm going to have to attach them to the head somehow while I'm connecting the manifolds to the car (either that, or put the car on a rotisserie and rotate it until the right side of the engine is perpendicular to the ground...). I was thinking of using a few dabs of some of the same copper anti-seize I'm going to use on the studs. Any better suggestions? Thanks.

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[flash]

i use a couple of dabs of orange/copper hi-temp rtv

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[MB968]

And, as far as the gaskets go, I don't think it makes any difference. The added mat'l of the lip just gives the gasket a little thicker ring right where you want it to seal closest to the ID of the pipe.



And, as Flash said, use some RTV. Just make sure it is O2 safe. I like to use this on all exhaust connections. Once I started doing that some years ago, I've never had a leaky joint.

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[jakerade]

Hi



Anyone got any tips on how to remove a stuck ring? Small screw driver and hammer? Not sure whether I should just leave it or go past the point of no return. As luck wouldnt have it, its the one closest to the bulk head!



Thanks



Jake

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[tamathumper]

Why do you need to remove it? While doing my clutch/flywheel job, if mine had been stuck in place, I'd have gladly left them there because I just needed to put them back in anyway,...

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[Cloud9...68]

Are we all talking about the same thing here? I was referring to the four rings that seal the exhaust manifold to the head, not the one farther downstream in the system.

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[jakerade]

so am i <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[tamathumper]

Apologies, I was talking about the one further downstream.

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[Scott Collins]

I mounted those rings with the groove in toward the head, but I don't think it matters. I think that the design allows for them to "crush in" when the manifold is bolted up to the head to obtain a tight seal. Keeps the exhaust from leaking out into the engine bay. Someone correct me if I am wrong.



If one is stuck, it shouldn't be hard to get a small screwdriver in between the ring and head and gently pry it out. It's better, IMO, to replace those when reinstalling the exhaust manifold.

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[flash]

i've done them both ways. i've had them seal and had them leak both ways. it was not due to the rings though, but rather to the warping of the manifold over time. i just had to plane the manifolds this time around.



i use a "pick" to get them out.



they are "one use" items, and are to be replaced each time (as are the nuts that hold the manifolds onto the block and the bolts and nuts that connect the manifolds to the collector tube). pricey little buggers too. i've probably gone through 10 sets on the blue car alone by now.

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[Scott Collins]

Yep, they cost a few $$$, and it's easy to forget to order them.... 10 sets, that a mortgage payment!

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[flash]

tell me about it. working out my exhaust mods, and everything else along the way, and now the new motor, has resulted in many sets needed.

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[AJG]

I've a genius idea to help Bob save money. Him and the missus go out for a drive (contraversial idea!) and overhead a Galaxt C5 waits for Bob to call it up for a re-fuel. And he just keeps driving and driving ( more controversy) and after about 100000miles miles there will be a break even point fuel costs versus service costs then its all gravy after that. Wait a minute! Bob's stopping cause he hear's a clunking noise, his head is under the bonnet! Damn all that fuel wasted for no good reason. All well at least there will be some good road stories.

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[jakerade]

its probably because this one is nearest the bulkhead, but still struggling to remove with small jewellers screw drivers. It may be just co-incidental, but all the others were lip towards the manifold where as this one appears to be pointing towards the block...........

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[flash]

yup - that's exactly why i now put them lip out. at least that way i can get my hook in there and grab it.

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[JWahlsten]

I'm getting ready to put them back in right now. I'll put them lip out too. I had to use the pick to get the old ones out today. #1 and #4 were a pain, but 2 and 3 fell right out. Machs nicht... I'll take it.



I found the nuts on the header (I have an RS Barn header) loosen up over time. So, I will add that to the list of items to check regularly.

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='JWahlsten' timestamp='1344129635' post='130522']

I found the nuts on the header (I have an RS Barn header) loosen up over time. So, I will add that to the list of items to check regularly.

[/quote]

Makes sense, since the sealing rings should be expected to crush over time. Thanks for the tip - I'll be checking mine as well, once I finally get it running.

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[flash]

those nuts are 1 use only. that's why they are loosening.

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[JWahlsten]

I have new nuts...So to speak. I have two sets copper and hardened. Which ones would you use Flash?



In addition to the inevitable crushing of the seals, you also have one less nut per cylinder on the RS Barn header vs the stock.

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[flash]

i use the OEM nuts, whatever the heck they are. i just keep them in stock. the threads are slightly different, and grab a bit. but, they lose that ability when reused. regular nuts will also come loose.

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