[biotechee]

So I want to do a unique modification to some wiring in my cab. Basically, I'd like to tap into 4 existing wires. What is the best way (read: most elegant and OEM-like) to do this? I don't like using the crimp type taps that you can get at HD or Lowes - you know, the ones that are color-coded to match the wire sizes like the crimp connectors?



If that is my only choice, so be it. I don't think soldering is an option, but I have yet to delve into it that far...



Thanks in advance for the advice.

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[flash]

without cutting and soldering, as far as i know, you are limited to the crimp gidgets - by the way, i don't like them either - i always opt for the cut and solder method, making sure to use shrink tubing and NOT electrical tape wherever i can

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[jpk]

You can do a proper solder splice with just some thin solder, flux and a match or candle as a heat source. Use a sharp knife (fresh utility knife works well) cut through the insulation all the way around the wire where you want to splice in (about 3/4" apart). Slit down the length of the wire and remove the insulation. Essentially what you've just done is removed the insulation from 3/4" of the wire. Untwist that section of the wire to straighten the strands a little bit.

Strip about 1/2 to 3/4" off the end of the wire you want to splice in. Dip it in soldering flux.

Insert the new wire into the strands of the wire in the harness you're splicing into. Twist that wire a bit to really grab the new wire. Make a couple of wraps around the two wires with thin solder. Heat it with a match to melt the solder. Wrap with cloth friction tape. Wrap that with vinyl electrical tape and you're done. Its a proper connection that will not corrode or vibrate apart.

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[flash]

ok - while credit should be given for thinking outside the box, there are a couple of problems with that method - a match does not get focused enough to flow the solder properly - you usually end up with a "cold solder joint" - it's also going to be tough to hold all of that by yourself without burning yourself



electrical tape, while convenient and inexpensive, is NOT a good primary insulator, nor intended to last long - it is intended as either a secondary cover, or a temporary one - i just pulled apart a system where they used electrical tape - what a mess!

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[jpk]

While I understand the skepticism; all I can say is try it - you'll be suprised at how well the match works. Flux is key, otherwise you won't get any kind of flow. I normally use a proper soldering gun, but for "emergency" repairs, I always carry a bit of solder and flux in my bag 'o tricks. I agree about the vinyl tape, but I only use that as a cover for the cloth friction tape.

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[flash]

not skepticism - i've done it, but it is messy and painful, and is very difficult to get the solder to flow properly - it's not enough to melt the solder, it has to run up the wire to make a good connection - the risk of a hot ember falling and burning something is also not an attractive concept - i'd just use a good iron - i like my adjustable hako



p.s. - all the solder i use contains its own flux - i don't think i've used separate flux in over 30 years

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[biotechee]

Well, if I can get my soldering iron in there, I'll use your method John. I might also see if I can remove the existing connectors and add a wire from there. Might be difficult, but we'll see.



Basically, I want to tap into the four wires in the diagnostic port. I was able to get (for free) a nice plug set from Molex so I can have a plug on my code reader instead of having the wires dangle from the diagnostic port. I thought about completely removing the diagnostic port and replacing with the new plug, but then if I ever need the codes read by the Hammer, I'd be in trouble.



Should be fun!

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