[psuphoto]

Cooling sys tests great. Now I know at least the fan is working. just started the final test, Just about finished, when I went to unlock the drivers door with with the led door lock and the darn thing pulled right out of the door. now I have a plastic cap and an led light dangling in addition to a fan relay problem.

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[Bulti]

I used that info to great success! (only 1 working fan and only at high speed)

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[wildcat]

I found it... and haveing looked through the procedure my question is, has anyone had a situation where the both fans run on slow but when the hi speed kicks in only one fan runs at all... I suspect its the relay as I've swapped out the fan harness left and right and both fans work but albiet in reverse order, the other fan on high doesn't work at all.



TIA

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[Uber968]

John/All,

 

Thanks for a fantastic write up, John!  Due to your work, I was able quickly identity the failed rad temp sensor that was causing my fans to run long after the car was turned off.  Constantly having to pull the relay in the fuse box after the morning commute was getting old.

 

I found the easiest way to change the rad temp sensor was from the top:

<p style="margin-left:40px;"> 

<p style="margin-left:40px;">1. Remove airbox. (2 screws, 1 bolt)

<p style="margin-left:40px;">2. Remove upper radiator bracket. (4 bolts)

<p style="margin-left:40px;">3. Remove the large rad hose, let the coolant flow into a catch basin.  It shouldn't be more than a litre.  Leave the small hose attached, it's pliable and can be pushed out of the way.  

<p style="margin-left:40px;">4. Unplug the sensor and use a deep 30mm socket to remove it.

<p style="margin-left:40px;">5. Install the new sensor (torque 11ft/lb) and reassemble in reverse.  Top up and bleed the coolant.

 

All in, 45min work, $9 sensor, and an $8 jug of coolant.  Thanks again, John!  :clap:

 

Best,

 

Trent 

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