[968TDG]

Thanks for everyone's posts, I did my keyless install this week using the right click BMW style keyless (buttons built into the head of the key). They don't seem to carry the correct blank, but the local lock smith had two keys cut for me, in and out in 5 minutes. I modified these to fit the head using a mill, though a dremel could have done the job pretty well.

I think this or the switchblade from right click is the way to go, simple and clean, albeit a bit more work cutting the blank to fit the head.

I chose to contain the wiring, not run a wire to the trunk, so I followed "guardsredcoupe" with finding the blue/white wire coming from the yellow connector for the trunk release, using this with a relay.

System is working, amber signals flashing on all 4 corners for lock, unlock, and trunk release. What an awesome upgrade...a bit of work, but so cool.

2 things I noticed...If you lock your car and then shut the door, the door unlocks halfway. So I would suggest locking the door once it is closed. Also, I tried to start the car with the doors locked (alarm armed) I was sitting in the passenger seat. This ended with me running around to the other side of the car to put the key in the door to stop the horn blaring at 9am on Sunday. Get some.

-Phil

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[videlicet]

[quote name='GuardsRedCoupe' timestamp='1133729736' post='13076']

It is possible (on the Coupe... not sure on the cab) to pop the trunk without running an extra wire to the rear of the car. The trunk pop signal exists in the yellow connector, a White/Blue wire. This signal can be tapped into by connecting the relay that comes with the package I've attached a diagram of the wiring required:



[/quote]

I know it's been a l-o-n-g time since this thread has been active, but I haven't had the car that long and am just about to do the RKE install this weekend. Could you re-post the wiring diagram of the trunk pop connection with relay? Also, which relay did you use? I'm assuming you used the RightClick system? Thank you!

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[flash]

the diagram is still on the first page.

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[videlicet]

I meant the modified diagram for just the trunk pop circuit that GuardsRedCoupe posted on 04 December 2005, showing the white/blue wire, etc., not the overall diagram from 968engineering.

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[flash]

this might be it:



   

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[videlicet]

I think that's the one; thank you, flash!



Also, do you know what type of relay I should be using for this?

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[Peter]

Was somebody successful in connecting the Bulldog 1702 keyless entry to the horn (instead of flashing the turn signals)? I found a post from 2005 where a guy was saying that the pulse length was not long enough to chirp the horn (he did not mention the KE model, though). I see that the pulse length in 1702 can be programmed for either 0.7s or 3.5s, where the latter is intend for vacuum door lock system only. Besides, 3.5s seems too long (it would be a long sound instead of a chirp).

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[MCL968]

I installed a small buzzer in the trunk and wired it into the relay for the light flash so it buzzes as the light flashes. It's a lot quieter and more distinct, which I like. I ran a 3 strand 16ga cable (read black extension cord) into the trunk between the taillights. One carries 12v, one triggers the trunk release relay, and the other triggers the flask/honk relays. Simple and tidy, and all the relays fit behind the support between the tail lights.

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[Peter]

[quote name='MCL968' timestamp='1420653547' post='164989']

I installed a small buzzer in the trunk and wired it into the relay for the light flash so it buzzes as the light flashes. It's a lot quieter and more distinct, which I like. I ran a 3 strand 16ga cable (read black extension cord) into the trunk between the taillights. One carries 12v, one triggers the trunk release relay, and the other triggers the flask/honk relays. Simple and tidy, and all the relays fit behind the support between the tail lights.

[/quote]

What stopped you from using the car horn? Did you consider using it at all?

My car is a coupe, so I was planning to use the wiring schema that does not require running the cable into the trunk. And I want to use just the car horn, not wiring/flashing the turn lights. Did anybody use this approach?

If making the car horn to chirp proves to be unfeasible, then I will use just the turn lights flashing.

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[MCL968]

For my cab it was a fairly simple decision in that I wanted all of the relays in one place. Because the wires for flashing the lights are most easily located in the trunk area, if seemed like the right place for both the additional horn and the relays.

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[Peter]

I installed the Bulldog 1702 KE and the doors and the trunk lock/unlock functions work as expected. The thing I do not like is how the turn signals flash works (the brown wire from the KE module): it always sends one pulse on lock press, and a double pulse on unlock press, and the second pulse it 7s long. This results in a brief flash of turn signals on lock press and in one brief and one long (7s) flash on unlock. I followed the instructions and tried to re-program the module, but it does not have any effect: it looks like this mode is hard coded. 

 

Is this behavior of the flash light signal normal? Did anybody successfully re-program the Bulldog 1702 to change the pulse length and/or the double pulse lock/unlock signal?

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[jimham968]

So, has anyone confirmed whether a relay is needed for the trunk pop or is there a wire available where I can directly hook up the Bulldog trunk lead?

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[MCL968]

I installed a Viper unit in my 968 and I had to use a collection of relays to trigger the trunk release and to flash the turn signals.

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[type968]

Can't answer for the trunk, but I just tied everything right off the alarm harness under the foot well. All the pinouts for flashing lights, locking unlocking door, etc are in there.  in fact all I did was buy a keyless entry unit for like 12dollars off ebay, since I am just utilizing the factory alarm. 

 

It looks like the wires from the alarm are just triggers for the relays built into the car.

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