[Greimann]

A keyless entry system is easier to install than a new stereo unit, so if you are inclined to do this, here is a little DIY. These instructions also include a wiring diagram that shows how to make the hatch / trunk pop work too (a very handy feature).

Keyless Entry.pdf Size: 324.08 KB  Downloads: 246

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[Etnier]

I asked David if he would be willing to prepare a document like this and a week or so later here we are! Havn't seen it yet but his previous .pdf's have been models of helpful exposition.



Thanks Dave!!! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> Much appreciated.

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[Greimann]

Let me know of you find anything lacking. I always welcome feedback on these things.



I know one issue that has popped up recently is the request for a turn signal flash confirmation. While I haven't done this, I think I woulld approach it by using just the left side turn signal instead of trying to add additional relays to get both to work. That way you only need one relay and will still have the lights on the drivers side of the car flash.



The left turn signal can be flashed by tapping into the Black / Brown wire coming out of the alarm computer and using a relay to make sure you are switching positive to that wire.

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[Etnier]

[quote name='Greimann' date='Feb 22 2005, 07:40 AM']Let me know of you find anything lacking. I always welcome feedback on these things.[/quote]



Well, given that anyone could wind up reading this document, you might want to preface it with an instruction to disconnect the battery?

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[Greimann]

Battery disconnect not necessary. In fact it is helpful to have it connected to probe voltages.

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[Etnier]

Gotcha.

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[Dobie]

[quote name='Greimann' date='Feb 22 2005, 08:40 AM']Let me know of you find anything lacking. I always welcome feedback on these things.



I know one issue that has popped up recently is the request for a turn signal flash confirmation. While I haven't done this, I think I woulld approach it by using just the left side turn signal instead of trying to add additional relays to get both to work. That way you only need one relay and will still have the lights on the drivers side of the car flash.



The left turn signal can be flashed by tapping into the Black / Brown wire coming out of the alarm computer and using a relay to make sure you are switching positive to that wire.

[right][post="1085"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Great job. Very clear.

If you want to flash all the parking lights you can splice into the wires at the ignition switch. You will need to identify the wires which come out in a bundle behind it under the dash...I think gray/red and gray/yellow are the correct wires. Then run the wire under the dash to the unit beneath the passengers feet. You may or may not need a relay, depending on the particular remote unit you buy. Some integrate a relay into the circuitry in the unit, some don't.

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[WYLDCTZ]

This is the greatest thing ever. $40 and I can have remote keyless entry? I was planning on having to spend a ton on a new alarm with it and have it installed....



You rock Greimann.



Mark

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[rustech]

...yeah, you rock Greimann.

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[Greimann]

[quote name='rustech' date='Mar 5 2005, 09:07 PM']...yeah, you rock Greimann.

[right][post="1426"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



I just want to point out that Eric R. first figured out that the spare wire bundle next to the computer was the tie in point.... I just took pictures and soldered a few wires together.. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[rustech]

oh cut it out...I'm blushing. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rolleyes.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Etnier]

It finally got warm enough here for me to install my Bulldog 1702. Thanks to Dave for this pdf and for his trunk pop harness, which made the job a lot easier. The trunk pop relay mounts neatly to a hexnut grounding point to the left of the hatch wiring area if you bend the relay tab a little bit.



For the Bulldog 1702, which would seem to be the gizmo of choice, the lower diagram on page 11 of the Bulldog manual is the one to use, with Bulldog-to-968 connections as follows:

• • RED to alarm computer's black connector: RED/WHITE (+12V)
  
  • BLUE/BLACK to BROWN/RED wire bundle (Unlock)
  
  • BLACK and the PURPLE/BLACK (both) to BROWN wire bundle (ground)
  
  • GREEN/BLACK to BROWN/WHITE wire bundle (Lock)
  
  

Again, David: thanks!

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[Greimann]

Good deal John,



Hey this keeps getting better and better. From bulldogs own site, here are the wire tables for the keyless / alarm area in the footwell. Also, a parkling light flash diagram:

968_park_light_connection.pdf Size: 31 KB  Downloads: 274

92_968_keyless_wire_table.pdf Size: 59.16 KB  Downloads: 129

93_968_keyless_wire_table.pdf Size: 59.75 KB  Downloads: 129

94_95_968_keyless_wire_table.pdf Size: 60.54 KB  Downloads: 153

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[Mike in NJ]

Wow! I sure wish I knew about the pigtails when I installed mine. I ended up tapping into the wires on the connectors. What a pain!



I am going to have to look again to see specifically how I did it, but I connected the hatch pop to the switch at the driver's area rather than running a wire to the rear of the car. Was there a reason you ran the wire all the way to the back instead of just connecting it up front?



Mike

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[Greimann]

[quote name='Mike in NJ' date='Apr 17 2005, 03:58 AM']..... Was there a reason you ran the wire all the way to the back instead of just connecting it up front?

Mike

[right][post="3350"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

I was looking for a universal solution for coups and cabs. On the cab, the footwell switch is disabled with the key off.

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[chazmink]

For what it is worth, I ran the parking light trigger to the rear of the car, installed relays there and tied into to the parking light circuit for each side. There is a lot more room to work with back there than under the dash.

Charlie

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[Etnier]

Here's a tip for owners of the Bulldog 1702 (and presumably 1402) keyless entry systems. THE TWO REMOTES WON'T NECESSARILY BOTH WORK AS DELIVERED. As I found out only after several fruitless emails and wading through a hostile customer-avoidance phone system, after installing the system you will probably need to teach the transponder to recognize both remotes.



Here's what I learned after several calls: after installation, by using a remote you program the in-car transponder to recognize that remote. The transponder then views the 2nd remote as a foreign body. To fix this:

• • Get in the car with both remotes. Close the doors.
  
  • Hold down the LOCK (#1) button on the working remote for 20 seconds and release.
  
  • Do the exactly the same thing with the 2nd (inoperative) remote.
  
  

You should now have taught the transponder to recognize the 2nd remote. This may not take the first time (it didn't in my case). Keep going back-and-forth until both remotes work.



Problems? Call 800-878-8007. Press 6, then 1.

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[Brian]

i've got a 92 cabrio. i installed the bulldog keyless on saturday. what a nice improvement! i just have a couple questions...

1.) when i pulled the brains out from the passenger footwell, i noticed one extra plug that was not connected to anything. it had two very small gauge wires going to a female plug. the plug was rectangular, maybe 1/2" x 1". the wires were off colors, like orange and brown (not red or black) or something like that. neither one had a + or - charge. the plug came off of the main wire bundle before any other wires branched out.

2.) has anyone hooked up the starter immobilizer? just for kicks, i sat in the car, used the keyless to lock the doors and engage the factory security system, then put the key in the ignition to start the car. when i turned the key in the ignition, the locks opened and the car started up. this leads me to believe that the factory system does not have an immobilizer on it and it might be a good idea to use the bulldog feature. is there an expert out there on the factory security system that could give me some wisdom here? my guess is that the immobilizer would safeguard against a thief hot-wiring the car and taking it, but wouldn't the immobilizer have to be wired in somewhere hidden? or else a thief would just tap into the wiring behind the immobilizer attachment.

what pro's/con's do you see with using the immobilizer?

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[Greimann]

I don't think you tested the factory system in a scenario that would normally ocurr in a situation where your car would be stolen. A theif would not originally be inside the car with the key and remote transmitter.



Try this: from outside the car and with the window down, Lock the car. Now reach inside and pull on the interior handle to open the car, setting the alarm off. Now try the key in the ignition. I believe the start is disabled. You have to unlock the car with the key,(or remote) to stop the alarm and re-enable the ignition.

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[Brett968]

In my opinion, this is one of the best upgrades one can make to these cars and the install is easy and straightforward. The tips in this thread were very helpful. I have a few tips of my own regarding flashing the lights on lock/unlock:



As was previously mentioned, the wires for the left and right turn signals are present at the connections for the alarm computer. I elected to use these wires for flashing. Since the left and right turn signals must be able to be flashed independently during normal operation, one single pole relay cannot be used. Two single pole relays are cumbersome. The trick is to use one dual pole relay. A trip to the local Radio Shack found the perfect parts. Part #275-218 is a DPDT (dual position, dual throw relay) and the corresponding relay socket part #275-220. You will need one of each (although the socket is optional- you could solder directly to the relay.) Here are the connections:



Pin 1 – not used

Pin 2 – not used

Pin 3 – BK/BR (left turn signal) wire from black connector on alarm computer

Pin 4 – GN wire (right turn signal) from black connector on alarm computer

Pin 5 - +12 V

Pin 6 - +12 V

Pin 7 – brown wire from Bulldog

Pin 8 - +12 V



For pins 5, 6, and 8 you can use the red/white wire going into the yellow connector on the alarm computer. You will also need to put a 20A inline fuse between these pins and +12V.



Below is a picture of my install (minus the 20A inline fuse and trunk release wire hadn’t been run.) BTW, wrap all the terminals on the socket with electrical tape and don't leave any unwrapped like shown in the picture.









Brett968

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