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Driveline Rattle
#1

Hi All,

 

I was poking around underneath the car today, trying to track down a rattle, and I noticed the ears on the torque tube sit quite close to the frame (pictures attached).  I had a look through PET thinking there may be a rubber bumper of some sort that's gone missing, but I wasn't able to identify anything that sits between these two pieces of metal.  I'm wondering if anyone else has any knowledge and/or suggestions.  If that's how it's supposed to be, I suppose I'll keep hunting for the rattle.

 

Thanks,

 

Trent

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#2

When does the rattle appear, during acceleration or deceleration?

It might be due to the motormounts.

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#3

none of that should move around to rattle, those hooks are there to stop the tube going through the engine on a rear impact,

 

there is no rubber parts that fit in there

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#4

That's true Waylander there is no rubber or other parts in between the hooks, but if the mounts are gone the hooks might touch every now and then.

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#5

Thanks for the suggestions and explanation of the hooks/ears.  The rattle varies in intensity and it doesn’t appear to show itself with any consistency.  When it does appear, it’s only audible at idle and is immediately drowned out by any road noise.  To me, it sounds like a heat shield or something similar.  The motor mounts are in good shape.  I’ll keep snooping for something loose.

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#6

Hi Uber968,

 

I suppose you would hear the diference between a heatshield and something big and heavy making noice through the car.

When the motormounts are gone you will hear a solid rattle, at least i did on my car.

When the hooks/ears will touch the other part to prevent movement you will also hear a solid rattle.

When it's a heatshield it's a completely diferent noice/pitch.

 

Good luck on your investigations.

 

In a few weeks time i will come close to you again.

 

Regards,

 

Jack.

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#7

Hi All,

 

I've diagnosed my rattle as a failed/failing flex damper.  Yuck.  I've purchased a new one from Porsche and I'm in the process of replacing it myself, which has gone surprisingly smooth so far.  I've removed the exhaust system and I'm mostly through the transaxle, but I'm stumped by the torque converter fastening bolts.  How do I properly rotate the torque converter so that I can access the bolts through the service hole?  

 

Thanks,

 

Trent
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#8

A 21mm deep socket on the crank pulley bolt will rotate it all, do not rotate the engine in the wrong direction


If you need to lock it in place then use the flywheel lock tool for doing the belts
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#9

Thanks, Waylander.  

 

My crank pulley bolt was 24mm.  A deep socket definitely makes it easy.  For those that may stumble on this thread in the future, rotate the crank pully bolt clockwise, as though tightening it.

 

Back to the garage...  Smile

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#10

Yes 24, I was still half asleep
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#11

The flex damper is on the engine side. Are you pulling the transmission and torque tube to access it?

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#12

Hi oppositelock,

 

Yes, that's my plan based on the reading I've done.  Unfortunately, I haven't had time to work on it much this weekend.  I'm down to a few bolts on the transaxle, which I'll drop out with a transmission jack.  From there, I need to remove or slide back the torque tube to access the bell housing, where the flex damper lives.  I've found service manuals for everything but the torque tube, but it looks fairly simple with the exhaust removed. 

 

Cheers,

 

Trent

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#13

thats one expensive bit of rubber....

 

And now you can take on doing 944 Clutches in your spare time,

 

I think you might find Torque tube info in the 944 manual, they did cross over quite a bit
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#14

It was $1300 for the damper.  Overall, not bad it you're willing to pull the wrenches yourself.  Nothing so far has been difficult.  It just takes time.  

 

This car has been a pleasure to drive and amongst the most reliable vehicles I've ever owned.  In 5 years, the only other significant bills have been the water pump and belt/roller job which were completed as preventative maintenance, and a failed windshield wiper motor.  Regular use and maintenance seems to agree with this 968. I'm not upset about replacing a 27 year old piece of rubber.  Smile

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#15

No you should not be upset at all, these are great cars and in the scheme of things the cost of the part is large but being able to do the work yourself saves a huge amount of money
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#16

Hi All,

 

Does anyone have the service manual for the torque tube, for a 944 or 968?  I can't seem to find one on the interwebz, but maybe I'm not looking in the right places.  Any help would be appreciated.  With the transmission out now, I'd like to read the torque tube manual before I start in on it.

 

Thanks,

 

Trent

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#17

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#18

And also hope this is what you're looking for.

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#19

All the manuals are on


www.pdlibrary.co.uk
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#20

J. Elenbaas - Thanks, I'll use the 944 shop manual as a template.

 

Waylander - Thanks for the link to the 968 manuals.  There was a Bosch manual posted there that I didn't have.  Unfortunately, I've been unable to find a 968 specific torque tube shop manual.  I'm not sure it exists.

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