[biotechee]

Alright- I installed a wood/aluminum 996 shift knob in my cab this past Winter. It definitely rattled so I wanted to see if I could fix it.

If you look at the OEM set-up, the actual knob never makes contact with the shift lever- there is a rubber isolating "bushing" that sits on top of the lever and another that fits around the base of the lever. As such, there is no discernable metal-to-metal contact in the OEM set-up. Therefore, no rattling of any kind.

When you compare the 986/996 knob, you will note that the "channel" in the knob is significantly smaller and does not allow for the 968 rubber bushings. The 986/996 knob is anchored to the lever via a set screw. No matter how much you tighten that screw, the top of the knob can still move side to side about that anchor point. When it does, you will get metal-to-metal contact on at least one side (my 996 knob had felt lining one side). So, during certain RPM periods in certain gears, I would get rattling as the knob would "vibrate" from side to side.

Attached is a photo of the solution. I installed this onto the top of my new D1R lever, then installed the knob. It was an extremely tight fit, but I took my time. I made sure the set screw was really tight and took it for a test drive with the radio off. NO RATTLING WHATSOEVER! Not sure how long it will last as the rubber "cap" might disintegrate over time, but I have two left from the pack of three....

Nice cheap fix- found them at either HD or Lowes. Can't recall which one, but probably HD as it is closer to my house.

If you have a rattling 986/996 knob or have held off installing one, give this a try- it's cheap and doesn't take a lot of time.

Also attached the file photo for the knob I bought, just for reference.

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[Cloud9...68]

I had a similar rattle with my 996 knob. Before taking steps to reduce it, it was VERY loud. Strangely, it sounded like a vacuum leak on steroids.

My solution was to encase the shifter shaft in sound deadening material, and then stuffing the shifter down onto it. This helped, but didn't completely cure the problem. Maybe cramming the shifter onto the shaft displaced enough of the sound deadening material from the top of the shaft to leave an opportunity for the shifter to rattle against the shaft, so maybe those rubber cap thingies will take care of the noise I have left. Thanks for sharing. I've also heard that installing a weighted collar around the shaft, just at the base of the shift knob, also helps.

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[biotechee]

I suspect that, over time, the rattle will appear again due to:

1) the set screw working itself loose
2) the rubber cap thingy deteriorating
3) other slop from worn out parts (bushings on the shift rod to lever connection, etc.)

Keep in mind I did this in conjunction with the new D1R short shift kit, all those new goodies along with the rubber cap my have had a cumulative effect. I did inspect the old shift lever and plastic cup- the connection between the ball and the socket seemed to be as new, for a 44K mile car.

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[rhudeboye]

Nice tip. Thanx.

Is the 996 shifter the same as the 986 (boxster)?

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[biotechee]

Similar. Some 986 (base boxster) shifters are 5 speeds I believe, while I think all 996 & 986 boxster S knobs are 6 speeders....

There are soo many variations, it is staggering!

Leather colors
Aluminum
Wood
Crest or not
etc.

But, I think the mounting method on the 986 and 996 shifter is identical no matter what. They all have the small rectangular channel with a set screw at the base.

993 knobs have the same mounting method as the 996 knobs, IIRC. The difference being in the knobs themselves.

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[rhudeboye]

<!--quoteo(post=70620:date=Apr 21 2009, 08:05 AM:name=biotechee)-->QUOTE (biotechee @ Apr 21 2009, 08:05 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->But, I think the mounting method on the 986 and 996 shifter is identical no matter what. They all have the small rectangular channel with a set screw at the base.

993 knobs have the same mounting method as the 996 knobs, IIRC. The difference being in the knobs themselves.<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Thanx
Thats what I was looking for.

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[ds968]

I have the same 996 shifter knob ( the carbon fiber and aluminum version ). For the last six years I have utilized every kind of sound and vibration dampening materials known to humankind and still never got rid of a slight buzz around the 2600-2800 rpm range... until last weekend that is, when not sure what prompted me to do this but I loosened the base screw ( and left it loose, btw ) and then lifted the knob just about 1/16", also leaving it like that. All of a sudden it's dead SILENT !

Drove it a couple of days since then, including today, and no more buzzing ! Nothing ! Six friggin' years of annoyance ( albeit it never lasted more than a fraction of a second, but still.. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dry.gif[/img] ) is finally over ! Just for kicks I tightened the screw back and it buzzed again. Interesting though that Jim's ( Bio ) shifter was silenced by tightening that screw really well, and mine had the same result only with the opposite . WTF ?

The stuffing I have there now keeps the knob so tight on the shifter stick that it will not move at all ( it took a lot of force to even pull the damn thing up that 1/16") so no concerns about that part, but it seems to me the contact made by the screw and maybe in combination with the top of the knob pushed down all the way, even with the material ( stuffing ) underneath it separating metal to metal contact, was still the conduit which created the buzzing sound.

All better now [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

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[Cloud9...68]

DS-

Thanks for the tip. I have exactly the same situation with my 996 shifter. I have it stuffed so full of sound deadening material it's like I'm driving around with a black hole sprouting from my center console, from whence not even light could emerge. And yet, still a steady buzz. Aaaarrrghhh! I'll try loosening the screw and raising the shifter a bit. Like you, this is going to involve a major feat of strength.

As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I've heard that placing a weighted collar (not sure where I'd find such a thing) around the shaft at the base of the shift knob helps a lot. I'll get around to trying this one of these days. Don't rush me, though; it's only been about five years since I've heard of this idea, so I'm still getting myself mentally prepared to take this on...

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[ds968]

Regarding the weighted collar, I've tried adding a bunch of lead ( molds pretty easily ) at the base but it made no difference ( in my case.. ) It's simply amazing that the weight of the stock shifter eliminates any vibration or sound.. they sure mass tuned that one to perfection - too bad that the OE knob is so fugly ( IMHO ) making it look like you're driving an old 944. I'd rather live with the brief buzzing , though I don't have to anymore [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

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[flash]

lol - and i feel the same way about the new fangled knobs - i absolutely hate the protrusion forward - then again, for proper technique, the knob is supposed to sit in the little cup in the palm of your hand, and be rocked back and forth left to right, without really using the fingers, and not be grabbed like a pistol grip, so the new knobs never seem to fit right - spend enough years with racing gloves on and this becomes really obvious

the nice round knob the car comes with is nearly perfect

i understand that it looks outdated though - lol - but i like that part about it too

here is a file that might help:

shifting.pdf Size: 208.32 KB  Downloads: 28

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[PorscheDude]

I love my MOMO ball knob. Lol.
It does make some noise in the same RPM range as mentioned.
But does not bother me at all. If I want a quiet car, I drive the BMW.
The factory knob is amongst the ugliest ever made. And way too long.

I modified (shortened) my lever when I installed the MOMO.

Sports cars are (IMHO) supposed to make noises.

That being said, I saw Jim's 996 knob and eBrake handle a loved the way it looked.
Nice job Jim!

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[ds968]

Sorry, but that tutorial pamphlet with suggestions of "how to shift" is complete nonsense . Says who ?!
Besides, the antarctic fish scaling gloves the driver is wearing should be the first tip-off those instructions are just silly.

30+ years of shifting gears and I NEVER missed one gear yet - that knob has hardly ever touched the cup in the palm of my hand;
it never gets that far back. The base of the fingers' "interior knuckles" [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/huh.gif[/img] ( or whatever those things are called [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif[/img] ) do the pushing, and the two forefingers and the thumb do the pulling. Smooth, effortless and perfectly effective.

Proof THAT is the correct method and not the holding of the knob as if you were grinding a lemon : in addition to three decades of doing this with ease it also worked like a charm even when I drove my former co-worker's Ferrari BB where shifting ( by most mere mortals ) would typically require both hands , a co driver with a sledghammer and a ready to spray can of WD 40 [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img]

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[PorscheDude]

Lol.

Grind it
till it fits.....

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[flash]

lol - sorry dan - you've been doing it wrong all these years - so do many people - you're entitled to do that too

but, go to race driving school - they will teach you the technique in that file (amongst correcting many other things that most drivers do "wrong")

no thumbs in shifting

p.s. - that's not me in those pics or who wrote the text - that's just one of many tutorials i found on proper shifting technique for racing and faster shifting

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[ds968]

I disagree; I AM shifting the correct way - and any racing school that teaches the technique reflected in that file is relying on archaic methods they never bothered to question, or to test better techniques because that's simply what was passed down from instructor to instructor ( no doubt that must have been the ideal method used to shift Model Ts ) and thus assumed to be the right way, just because that's how everyone's been doing it for ages.. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dry.gif[/img] Yes, it works, but it's not by any stretch the best way to shift..

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[flash]

lol - i get that kind of response from every old guy who doesn't want to learn proper technique - i'm resistant to stuff too - i think it comes with age - no worries

but that is what the still teach in every race driving school i know of

it is basic kinesiology, ergonomics, and conservation of motion - this philosophy states basically that the fewer body parts involved in any action, the better, which inherently limits the opportunity for error

this is true whether shifting a gear shift, or throwing a dart, or serving a tennis ball

placing the shifter in the socket of the palm, and allowing the palm to form a cup over the ball of the shifter provides the most contact over the shifter, and provides for the most consistent orientation of the hand to the shifter - movements are subtle and in a quick rocking motion - in a perfect world, it is done without using any of the the fingers at all

grabbing it like a pistol may serve some deep-seated phallic thing or feel manly or aggressive, and i get that, but it is the least efficient way to shift - it involves 10 times the muscles, joints, and bones, and by definition requires more movement, which can lead to more mistakes

if you are not making mistakes in your shifting, it merely means that you have adapted to the technique you are using - it's like running with your toes pointed any direction other than straight - you get used to it, but it still isn't as efficient as it can be - this happens all the time - even professional athletes can be successful using a horrible technique (ever watched jim furyk?) - it still doesn't mean they wouldn't be better if they learned to use the right technique

this is almost like those who shift in a "Z" pattern, with 3 distinct movements, and not a straight line in one smooth quick movement- you learn to shift in a straight line when you are racing

the big thing to remember is that this becomes VERY evident as soon as you put on racing gloves, which are what are shown in pictures

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