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Considerations when starting an engine that's been idle...
#1

... a LONG time



I started my track car build in April of 2010, so it's coming up on two years since the engine has turned over on its own power. Miracle of miracles, the day is actually approaching when I try firing the engine up after its complete rebuild. So, I'd like to get some input as to things I should take into consideration. For example:



- I know gas loses octane rating over time. Should I drain the tank and put fresh gas into it? What about the gas that's in the lines?

- I was planning on turning it over with just the starter (with the coil wire disconnected) several times to get the parts reasonably well lubricated before trying to fire it up. Is there anything else I should do along these lines?



Anything else I shoud do before turning in the key for the first time?



Thanks.
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#2

drain the tank. condensation will be an enemy here, as will varnish, which could get into your system and cause all sorts of problems. basically you need to get all of that fuel out of the system completely.



drain your fuel lines, fuel rail, regulator. (you can use compressed air to force that old fuel out)



make sure you have freshly cleaned injectors that have not had any fuel sitting in them



make sure you have a new a new fuel filter (no fuel sitting in it)



start with fresh oil and filter.



rotate the motor by hand a few times before running the starter.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#3

I'll add a couple of details. With the spark plugs out rotate a couple of times by hand to make sure everything is free. Then you can starter spin it with the plugs out (and DME relay out) a couple of times just to make sure it's turning ok without the compression load. Then plug everything in and start it. You won't get any real oil pressure just on the starter motor, so don't overdo that.

Best to have a helper. He/she can turn the key and watch the oil pressure gauge. You can be on the outside with a good flashlight to be looking for coolant or oil leaks.

You'll hear a bunch of lifter clatter for a few seconds, and you will get oil smoke/smell off the exhaust header for awhile. All normal.

Have your coolant bleeder valve open a bit and be watching for coolant to start coming out. I expect you will be adding coolant to the tank some until all the air is out of the system.
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#4

Maybe just short the DME relay and have the fuel pump do all the work, after putting a hose on the end of the fuel rail and a bucket underneath....Duh.

That should clear out the tank and most of the lines. Then add a few litres of good gas to the empy tank and follow with a flush.
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#5

lear - yeah - that's what i meant by rotating by hand first



dave - NOOOOOO! we do NOT want to pull the fuel through the system. we want to get that nasty stuff out of there WITHOUT it getting to the fuel rail, regulator, injectors, yada yada. we also do not need to gum up the pump with that varnish.



disconnect the fuel line from the pump. disconnect the supply line from the regulator, and the return line from its coupling there. run air through the lines to clear them out. then drain the tank.



remove the fuel rain assembly, drain, clean and reinstall.



then change the filter, reconnect everything, and you're good to go.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#6

Thanks for the inputs. I've turned it by hand probably close to a hundred rotations, so I'm confident pistons and valves aren't going to be meeting under unwanted circumstances. I'm glad I asked about the fuel - does the tank have a drain plug, or do I have to drain it through the filter lines somehow?
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#7

good question - not sure. i know CARB had to drain my tank for their tests though, so it couldn't be too hard, even if they had to syphon it out.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#8

Yea, I just figured if the nasty fuel was already in the lines what harm was it to push it all the way out as long as you flushed the system with fresh fuel afterwards to remove any contaminants. I only meant to pull it off at the connector by the cam cover not push it through the fuel rail or injectors.
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#9

understood. just don't want to get any more of that into the pump than necessary.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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