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Can these things POSSIBLY be related?
#21

I ordered a new relay, which doesn't seem to have fixed the problem. I did a blink test and it's now putting up a fault code of:



1-1-1-9 Speed Signal - Speedometer



Does this indicate something other than the relay being the issue? I just replaced the relay and the speedo still doesn't work, and the antilock and (!) sign are still lit up.



Phil
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#22

Ok, this just got even more interesting. To recap, the speedometer doesn't work, the antilock light is on, and yesterday someone let me know that my brake lights don't work either.



I started troubleshooting.



The fuse for the brake lights (fuse 19, 15A) is also the fuse for the cruise control and the antilock brake relay. It was blown, so I replaced it.



I pressed the brakes and it blew again, so I unplugged all rear lights including the 3rd brake light, and replaced the fuse.



I pressed the brakes, and it blew again, so I unplugged the antilock relay I had recently purchased, and replaced the old one, and replaced the fuse.



I pressed the brakes, and it blew again. Now I'm out of fuses.



I don't know the electronics in this car very well, but this is leading me to believe that the antilock system is in some way compromised.



Any thoughts? I could really use some insight on this.



Cheers

Phil
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#23

I think there is a switch under the pedal for the brakes, you could try unhooking that. I wouldn't think it would be ABS related with the car not running and stationary.
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Current:
2016 Cayman S
Former:
94 968 Cab 6 Spd. Black/Cashmere D1R SC
86.5 928 Garnet Red Metallic
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#24

I just removed that switch and tested it. It tests at 0.5 ohms when the pedal is at rest, and 0.0 ohms when the pedal is pressed. Doesn't that switch just stop and start the current basically? I can't think of how it could create a high current situation, unless it is still supposed to have some resistance when the pedal is depressed....



Phil
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#25

I just purchased more 15A fuses and tried pressing the pedal with the switch installed, and the Antilock relay removed, and the fuse still blew.



Since this fuse protects the brake lights, cruise control, and antilock relay, that leaves these possible culprits for the fuse blowing when I press the brakes:



a ) the brake pedal switch is somehow not working how it should and is letting too much current pass



b ) there is a short somewhere in the brake wiring, before the harness, or possibly from the third brake light wiring in the hatch



c ) the cruise control is broken or short circuiting, but this seems less likely because it only happens when the brake pedal is pushed.



Can anyone think of any other possibilities? I want to chase down this rat and move on <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> I'll try disconnecting the wiring in the hatch tomorrow to eliminate the possibility, and then I guess I'll disconnect the cruise control unless anyone else can think of something to try!



Cheers

Phil
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#26

That switch should be infinity when not depressed and 0.5 ohms when the brakes are on. Sounds like you have a bad switch shorting to ground.
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#27

I'd check the wiring for the third brake light first. That's where the most movement/flexing occurs in the wires you're dealing with, and it's been known to fray.
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#28

Thanks guys,



I'll check both of those things and let you know what I find. Hopefully I can make quick work of sorting it out and move on to the speedometer not working <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.png" class="smilie" alt="" />



Phil
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#29

It's actually a blessing to have a fuse blow every time rather than fight with an intermittent electrical problem.
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#30

The number of little things going wrong with my car was getting overwhelming, so I've started to systematically make my way through them.



brake lights

speedometer

odometer gear

fuel filter

check valve

sunroof drain tube



Those are the things I hope to sort out, or at least understand the solution to this weekend.
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#31

Here's a link to what the brake light wiring can look like. I think mbardeen posted this originally?



http://www.968forums.com/gallery/image/2...connector/
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#32

Thanks for all the advice guys,



I finally managed to sort through these issues this weekend.



Rear windshield wiper - Stopped working, stuck at 45 degrees. I took the gear and motor unit off of the hatch, drilled out the riveting holding the backing plate onto the gear housing. The center pin on the main gear had slipped out of it's mount and was blocking the arm driving the wiper blade. I put some loctite on it and reassembled the unit, drilling and tapping some holes in the housing with 8-32 hardware to fasten the backing plate.



Brake Lights - As suspected, there was a short between the wire going to the third brake light and the hatch. The short was caused by the wire being trapped between the rear trim plate and the hatch. It was smashed when the screw was tightened, and the wire sheath was compromised.



Speedometer and anti-lock light - These two problems were both side effects of the brake light short. The fuse for the brake lights is also the fuse for the anti-lock relay. When this goes out, the light comes on, and for some reason, the speedometer also stops working. While I was sorting this out, I also rebuilt my third brake light, since only 1 of 7 lights was working. I scraped the corrosion off of the electrical connections to the bulbs, and the mounting points on the hatch, and then coating everything with dielectric grease.



I'm really happy to have fixed these issues. Now I know how fast I'm going, my antilock works when I'm braking, people behind me know when I'm braking, and I can see them through my back window... I gave her a bath after it was all sorted <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" />



Cheers

Phil
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#33

Nicely done! I'll be working on my centre brake light soon too; this thread will be a helpful resource, thanks.
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#34

Glad you got it sorted!
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#35

I think the wiper motor should be added to everyone's to-do list! That stupid pin backed out on me and many other people. Mine never blew the fuse though, I only noticed because I touched the housing one day and it was hot even though it wasn't engaged; it was jammed almost at the home position and never quite shut off.
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#36

[quote name='DaveN' timestamp='1363627611' post='140201']

I think the wiper motor should be added to everyone's to-do list!

[/quote]



Solution = get a cab! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rock.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#37

Or turn it into a pick up truck...I've always felt it would be a very functional "El Camino" and I think I've seen a picture of a 944 pickup.



I assume the pin in the wiper was a press fit originally, but the way the wiper is mounted, if the pin becomes loose it will slip out due to gravity. Since It was a pretty loose fit when I was deciding how to fix it, I decided to damage the press fit end of it a bit by pounding it with a hammer with a textured head to create more interference with the housing. It is very hard steel. I'm think this and the loctite should do the trick.
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#38

Nice work with the wiper motor. I have used the rear wiper quite a bit this year with the snow and "wintery mix". I did that repair a few years ago, and I can guarantee that the pin will never come out again! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" />
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#39

I actually used a centre punch around the outside of the pin to lock it in to place.

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