[flash]

i stopped by my favorite upholsery shop today to check in on some modifications being done to my bra (needed now, since i reworked the front end appearance) and he asked me if i thought anybody would be interested in a kit that he coud put together to fix the broken bow problem in the cab tops - can you believe it - finally!!!!



it turns out he has figured tou the cause of the problem (it is not the motors) and he has devised a repair that does not require replacement of the frame, nor does it require welding



if you have only broken the bow, and not gashed the top, this is a kit that will come complete with everything you need to fix the problem all by yourself (if you are at all handy) - no need to go to the upholstery shop or anything nearly that complicated or expensive - if you gashed the top, you will still have to get that done, but this kit will still fix your bow problem without the stupid expense of a new frame



he will have a write up on the kit and pricing very soon - i'll let you know

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[rustech]

It's kind of like having someone try to sell you a coffin when you're still breathing.. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/tongue.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Sounds cool, but I hope I never need it.

Does it also prevent damage, or only fix damage?

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[Anchorman]

This had been a topic of much discussion (and a rash of experiences) a year or more ago but seems to have abated. Whatever the cause, going to manual operation (which some - including me - have done) eliminates the potential for breakage. It would be interesting, though, to understand his theory of what causes the break.

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[flash]

actually, manual mode help diminish the chance of breakage, but according to what this guy said, the problem can still cause breakage - you would generally notice if first though (assuming you were paying attention) in manual mode, where you probably wouldn't in power mode, until it was too late



i'm sure he will explain it in detail in his write up - i was stunned, but after looking at it, i can now understand it - it is related entirely to shrinkage of the back window and how it affects the way the top goes down - anybody with an old, hard, or glazed window, BEWARE!

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[968Z]

Hmmmm....I had a new top on the Devil two years ago. 6 months later? Bang! Bye Bye Bow! What else might be the problem?

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[Anchorman]

That hypothesized cause also doesn't fit my situation - my window is far from perfect but it also could not be characterized as "old, hard, or glazed" - and certainly not two years ago when my bow broke. And, the PO also had a bow breakage and the top and window certainly were in better condition years before now. So - I suspect that this may be one, but not the only, possible breakage scenario.

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[flash]

you would be very surprised at how little it takes in shrinkage to move things - the slightest misalignment of the other parts and interference happens - very bad design



while i agree there may well be other causes, when i saw this, i was absolutely stunned - a couple of millimeters and BOINK!



i suppose that's why they give you adjustment procedures in the manual - this seems to be a necessary thing over time, as a maintenance item

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[Anchorman]

If it's such close tolerances/adjustments, and something like shrinkage (of the top? the window?), are we kidding ourselves by believing that manual operation of the top is the "cure"? Yet, I'm not aware of any breakage in a top that's been operated manually. Does the shrinkage lead to the motors twisting the mechanism in a way that doesn't happen with manual operation?

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[LivingDust]

What exactly is the "bow" we are talking about. I have a new top which looks great. The company that did it has a great reputation for upholstery here in town but until they did my top I did not know they did tops. If all it takes is a millimeter here or there...



I asked them NOT to connect the motor. I have long arms and I can put the top up or down from inside my car without the motor. And I can do it faster than the motor. (I guess the roll-bar is going to slow me down though.)



So back to the point of my question, I am not sure what part to pay care to. Is there a key word I can search on and find a picture of the part being discussed?



Scott

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[flash]

it isn't really the cure - it just puts you in the position of "feeling" problems before they occur - with it in power mode, you tend to ignore it until it goes "pop"

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[968Z]

There is just entirely too much talk about "Shrinkage"!! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[flash]

i'm going to wait until he does the write up to point out parts and such - it will be a lot clearer and easier at that point - he's working on it now - he's really good with the hardware, not so much with the software - the write up will show which parts get out of which when things move, and then we can all take care to avoid that

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[Anchorman]

The "bow" we're talking about - also called the "main bow" is the equivalent of the "B" pillar on a coupe - it's the vertical part immediately behind the door window, above where the shoulder belt mount is. Mounted on it are the rubber moldings against which the window closes. This part is prone to fracturing at a rivet hole and then the top kind of collapses.



If anyone can put the top up while sitting in the car, I'm impressed. For me (with long arms), down is easy - up requires getting out.

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[flash]

yup -that's the one



i've done the top up while seated thing, but it's no picnic - it's a long reach at an awkward angle



i'm only in manual mode right now because i am in and out so many times working out stuff like this unit - once i'm done, i'll go back to power mode

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[LivingDust]

[quote name='Anchorman' date='Aug 4 2005, 03:24 PM']

The "bow" we're talking about - also called the "main bow" is the equivalent of the "B" pillar on a coupe - it's the vertical part immediately behind the door window, above where the shoulder belt mount is. Mounted on it are the rubber moldings against which the window closes. This part is prone to fracturing at a rivet hole and then the top kind of collapses.

[right][post="8394"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right]

[/quote]

Crap! That sounds expensive!



Speaking of expensive, anyone know where I can find some missing rubber for my window to close against?



quote=Anchorman,Aug 4 2005, 03:24 PM]

f anyone can put the top up while sitting in the car, I'm impressed. For me (with long arms), down is easy - up requires getting out.

[right][post="8394"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right]

[/quote]



Besides being 6'5", I have fairly narrow shoulders which make for long arms (can you say 37" sleeves?") To put the top up, I would reach back with my right arm and get a grip on the handle, then I would hook my left arm under my forearm to help get it started. Then I would just pretend I am spiking a V-Ball, and wa-la!



Before I had my nice new top and a boot cover to keep it nice, I just had a bungie cord that went from one windshield latch under the metal bar of the cubby and back to the other windshield latch. This would keep the cloth from flapping around much. I could get the top from open to closed and latched in about 15-20 seconds.



Now that I car about preserving my top, those days are pretty much gone. But I still can't see a need for the motor to put my top up for me, since that is not the hard part. (The hard part is stretching the snaps of the boot cover to get them all on...)

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[Anchorman]

If purchased new from Porsche at full price (as I did when my bow broke about three weeks after I purchased the car and I had to get it fixed - pronto), the bow and associated attaching parts was in the range of $400, IIRC. Then, there was the labor at the upholstery shop for removal of broken, and installation of new, parts. The total repair got pretty close to $1k. I was not a happy camper - especially since I had to deal with my wife, who was insisting all along that I purchase a new car that would come with a warranty.

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[flash]

it's not a need thing for me, but since i absolutely want to stop and put something down on the window to prevent it from rubbing against itself anyway (the key to keeping your window loking new), i may as well use the power mode and be able to stop halfway (hard to do in manual mode)

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[Anchorman]

In fact, unless it's windy, I have found that it's not difficult at all to stop the top halfway. It balances quite nicely at the natural halfway point - you can feel it as you're opening the top - it stops wanting to close, and just before it wants to open. If you're in the power mode, don't you have to be in the car, open the latches and hold the switch until you're halfway, then get out and place the "something", then get back in to hold the switch until the top is open, then get out to fasten the boot, then get back in to drive? IMHO, much easier in manual. Open the latches, get out, move the top to halfway, put your "something", fully open the top, fasten the boot, then get in and drive.

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[flash]

hmmm - my top won't stay there - i just checked - moves way too freely



i can't figure out how to get the top to stay halfway in manual mode, while i lay the towel down on the window, and still keep my hand from getting caught in there



i assumed everybody else's was the same way

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[gryphon]

I think there's a very good possibility that I may be in need of this repair soon. (For now, my top remains up, due to a considerable misalignment.)



Any progress?



Tom

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