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So I just finished my clutch job/ cracked fire wall......
Now it is time to bleed..... <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/dry.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
Since I removed the brake booster and the master cylinder + both slave and master clutch cylinders I have to bleed the whole system. My question is what should I do first; the brakes (starting at the rear passenger side) and than the clutch slave cylinder? Or??
I also have a problem with the clutch pedal; as soon as I even touch the pedal it snaps straight to the fire wall, is this due the lack of any hydrolic pressure? or should I make some more adjustments at the pivot?
Any tips/ help on bleeding the whole system would be appreciated!
Regards,
Rutger
1992 Amazon green convertible. Cargraphic cat. back exhaust, RS Barn/ Design 1 Racing lower & upper strut brace, RS Barn stage 1 Chip, Airbox modification, M030 Swaybars.
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Hi,
Yes, I did adjust the rod( master cylinder) just like the old one (including the thickness of the sheet metal which I welded in..)
So I will start with the brakes, just another question since the 968 has two bleed screws on each caliper, which one should I do first? inside or outside?
Cheers,
Rutger
1992 Amazon green convertible. Cargraphic cat. back exhaust, RS Barn/ Design 1 Racing lower & upper strut brace, RS Barn stage 1 Chip, Airbox modification, M030 Swaybars.
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[quote name='Cloud9...68' post='45992' date='Jan 19 2008, 12:10 AM']I agree with all the comments here, except I don't understand the recommendation to bleed the brakes before the clutch. Why does it matter? Just curious...[/quote]
The clutch is a lost closer then the back wheels. You may also need to bleed the ABS module if you dug that deep into it with the master cylinder off. Which would involve bleeding the system, then test drive and engage the ABS and bleed again.
Current:
2016 Cayman S
Former:
94 968 Cab 6 Spd. Black/Cashmere D1R SC
86.5 928 Garnet Red Metallic
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Hi,
Today I bled the brakes and the clutch cylinders, the brakes are fine. The clutch on the other hand still oprates a bit funny....I changed both slave and master cylinder, during the proces I removed the brake booster as well. Now the clutch pedal does not slam into the firewall like before but at the end of its travel I can still push it a bit further back by hand (untill the spring pulls it back) So is there still air int the system or is there something else? I checked the distance from the firewall to the pivot point from the pedal...it is 147 MM.....
Any thoughts?
Regards,
Rutger
1992 Amazon green convertible. Cargraphic cat. back exhaust, RS Barn/ Design 1 Racing lower & upper strut brace, RS Barn stage 1 Chip, Airbox modification, M030 Swaybars.
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[quote name='Rutger' post='46076' date='Jan 21 2008, 10:00 AM']Hi,
Today I bled the brakes and the clutch cylinders, the brakes are fine. The clutch on the other hand still oprates a bit funny....I changed both slave and master cylinder, during the proces I removed the brake booster as well. Now the clutch pedal does not slam into the firewall like before but at the end of its travel I can still push it a bit further back by hand (untill the spring pulls it back) So is there still air int the system or is there something else? I checked the distance from the firewall to the pivot point from the pedal...it is 147 MM.....
Any thoughts?
Regards,
Rutger[/quote]
It took me a couple extra bleedings of the clutch to get it right. After driving the car some I went back and did it again and got more bubbles. It helps if you have the rear end of the car higher then the front when bleeding the clutch.
Current:
2016 Cayman S
Former:
94 968 Cab 6 Spd. Black/Cashmere D1R SC
86.5 928 Garnet Red Metallic
(This post was last modified: 01-21-2008, 12:29 PM by
banditsc.)