12-19-2011, 06:31 AM
I could start with a shopping list and I suppose from the shopping list we should be able to get to a sort of a rough guide ; it will not be a complete 'how to' course but it will give you some idea of how I did it ...
First of all the route I took was to buy a second 968 engine and a damaged 968. the engine because I wanted to keep my original 968 engine in one piece and because it's easier to build the Turbo engine on a stand and then swap engines. Furthermore I did not want my 968 to be in bits and pieces for months and month, not being able to drive it whenver the sun did shine and the Nordschleife was open <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> The bonus in this modus operandi is that there is not to much pressure on the timeline because the car is running until the moment of the engine swap ...
The damaged car comes in handy because you'll need to fit and refit and modify anf refit and .... well, you get the point ... exhaust, enigine mount, line up torque tube and gearbox, Turbo, charge cooler, waterpump and radiator and so on. Since I didn't want to damage the engine bay of my 968 to much, and, again, keep my 968 running as long as possible this worked out fine for me ...
I chose te re-alusil my ( second ) engine. If you are lucky and while stripping the engine the Alusil in the cylinders is still in great shape ( I doubt if this ever is ) you may skip this step, though I wouldn't / didn't. It is not cheap, I paid some 1200 Euro but that included a titanium coat of the the piston rings. The Alusil guy told me that was the best way to go ... so I did.
Then I ordered a set of forged pistons @ Wössner, who was happy to make them in a 8,5 : 1 ratio in exchange for 1230 Euro's. Since Mr. Wössner was not able to supply me with forged con rods for some months I decided to spent another 700 Euro's on forged conrods via Ebay Australia.
Why I chose the 8,5 : 1 ratio rather then a higher compression is because I'am looking for a smooth ride with a sharp edge rather then max power at a higher rev count. For me the combination of a lower ratio with a smaller turbo ensures me I'll have pressure from ( almost ) idle on so I do not need much torque from the engine itself ( the N/A stage ). The guys building the larger turbo's need to get to 4000 rpm before the monster comes out and that's just not my cup of tea ( though they will, in the end, have a stonger engine, mine will be faster ). That's a choice everybody needs to make for themselves ...
Wow, this is going to be a long story ; taking a break,
to be continued ...
Cheers, Frank
First of all the route I took was to buy a second 968 engine and a damaged 968. the engine because I wanted to keep my original 968 engine in one piece and because it's easier to build the Turbo engine on a stand and then swap engines. Furthermore I did not want my 968 to be in bits and pieces for months and month, not being able to drive it whenver the sun did shine and the Nordschleife was open <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> The bonus in this modus operandi is that there is not to much pressure on the timeline because the car is running until the moment of the engine swap ...
The damaged car comes in handy because you'll need to fit and refit and modify anf refit and .... well, you get the point ... exhaust, enigine mount, line up torque tube and gearbox, Turbo, charge cooler, waterpump and radiator and so on. Since I didn't want to damage the engine bay of my 968 to much, and, again, keep my 968 running as long as possible this worked out fine for me ...
I chose te re-alusil my ( second ) engine. If you are lucky and while stripping the engine the Alusil in the cylinders is still in great shape ( I doubt if this ever is ) you may skip this step, though I wouldn't / didn't. It is not cheap, I paid some 1200 Euro but that included a titanium coat of the the piston rings. The Alusil guy told me that was the best way to go ... so I did.
Then I ordered a set of forged pistons @ Wössner, who was happy to make them in a 8,5 : 1 ratio in exchange for 1230 Euro's. Since Mr. Wössner was not able to supply me with forged con rods for some months I decided to spent another 700 Euro's on forged conrods via Ebay Australia.
Why I chose the 8,5 : 1 ratio rather then a higher compression is because I'am looking for a smooth ride with a sharp edge rather then max power at a higher rev count. For me the combination of a lower ratio with a smaller turbo ensures me I'll have pressure from ( almost ) idle on so I do not need much torque from the engine itself ( the N/A stage ). The guys building the larger turbo's need to get to 4000 rpm before the monster comes out and that's just not my cup of tea ( though they will, in the end, have a stonger engine, mine will be faster ). That's a choice everybody needs to make for themselves ...
Wow, this is going to be a long story ; taking a break,
to be continued ...
Cheers, Frank
