[Lonestar968]

I recently experienced the heater control valve failure at the track a couple of weekends ago. Kinda' scary getting that far sideways without prior warning! Wowzy-wow!



I had to rig up a barnyard fix using socket extensions and baling wire, which, needless to say, only lasted about six miles. Flat bed wrecker the rest of the way back home. Bummer.



Anyway, racetrack-hose-water and four-year-old German coolant is sitting in the block right now. I can hear it taunting me late at night. I know its in there wreaking havoc with the seals and such.



So... I need to know if somebody has a step-by-step procedure for flushing and filling the cooling system the RIGHT way.



Thanks.



Dan

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[DaveN]

I haven't seen much on flushing here but you can get a ton of search hits on bleeding the coolant system, that has been well discussed.

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[Lonestar968]

Thanks Dave.

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[flash]

the system does not lend itself well to flushing, as you never want to introduce tap water into the system, and typically that's the way you flush them.



draining, filling, and bleeding are all covered though.



draining happens at the blue drain plug. buy a new one in advance, as yours will likely break.



filling is pretty straight forward, but takes a few shots as the thermostat opens up and lets more coolant into the engine. adding coolant as you go. use phosphate free coolant only, and distilled or preferably deionized water only (do not use tap water). a 50/50 mix is best.



bleeding must be done with the heater on, heat set to high, and the fan on. the nose of the car should be a touch higher than the tail. the car must be fully warmed up before bleeding. crack the bleed screw (make sure you have a bleed screw and not a regular screw) repeatedly a few seconds at a time until no bubbles exit.



drive the car for a few minutes. bleed again to double check.

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