[sasilverbullet]

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Guess it was just a matter of time, 13 yr old car, closed the hatch tonight and the seal at the top failed.



Now I've got to either DIY or pay someone to reseal it.



Any recommendations?



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[sasilverbullet]

Oh, thanks for all the responses everyone! I guess this one has been beat to death....



If anyone out there cares, I've decided on a DIY of removing the glass from the frame and doing a total reseal myself.



I went to the automotive glass store and got the primer, sealant and piano wire I'll need to do the job. The guy there suggested I LEAVE the frame on the car so as not to bend it. He said it's a bear to get straight again. I'm gonna take his suggestion.



I'll let everyone know how it goes and I WILL take pictures for prosperity...



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[Brett968]

This is a really aweful job to do. I've done it twice (well, OK I contracted my brother to do the bulk of the manual labor the second time <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> ). I trust you have purchased the proper materials. The little applicator do-dads that look sort of like cotton balls on a stick are very helpful for applying the primer - get some of these. Make sure that the primer is well within it's expiration date. Don't apply the primer in excessive temperatures. Don't apply the primer too thick. You are going to find it very difficult to remove the glass without removing the entire hatch and frame. I suggest you remove the entire assembly. Cover the glass with an old sheet or similar taped to both sides to prevent scratching the glass (BTDT.) I found buffing the glass in the area where the primer goes gave a much better bond. I used a buffing kit from a large mail-order/online supplier, don't recall the name at the moment. When reinstalling the glass, bolt the frame onto the car and have a second person help orient the glass into position on the frame assembly. Make sure that you the frame is positioned correctly against the glass. The sealant requires a bit of force to compress and the frame will tend push away from the glass along long spans. It may be helpful to check this from underneath by judging the compression of the rubber hatch seal. Oh, you will of course need to remove some of the urethane from the frame as well. But don't remove all of the urethane. If you do cut through to the metal, touch up the areas that are exposed with primer before proceeding. Of course, make sure everything is clean before applying any primer or sealant (get those hand oils off of the surfaces.)



Brett

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[sasilverbullet]

Brett,

Thanks for the pointers! I'll take your suggestions and put them to good use!

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[Harvey]

Let us know how it comes out. Most of us face this challenge at some point.



Harvey

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[apex]

yeah silver we're there for you! like harvey said this is in all of our futures... let us know how it goes. Brett: thanks for the tips from your experience.

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[sasilverbullet]

I've removed the wing and all the stuff that's tacked on to the frame. I took a lot of pics and I'll post them tonight.



I've decided to pay a glass place to come out and separate the glass from the frame. Then I'll remove the old sealant. I tried to do it with some piano wire but that seal is hard as rock and I don't want to damage that glass!



I MIGHT have the glass place help me with re-sealing it after I've done all the prep, haven't decided for sure yet, we'll see...



I'll keep you'all posted...

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[Norskiepete]

I paid a glass place to do the entire job for me just recently. See my post here for details and pictures. I know they removed the entire frame removed, cleaned, and re-sealed, and left it off the car to dry at least overnight... maybe longer (I left it a couple of days while I was out of town). they did a great job. The entire hatch still seems to creak a bit on hot days, but I think that is mostly from chassis flex.

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[sasilverbullet]

I found a place that will charge only $100 for the glass removal. I'm going to take them up on it! They won't come out 'till Thursday though.



I'll post the pics I took so far tonight...

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[sasilverbullet]

Update, just went out to look at a friends 968 (yes, we both work at the same place!) and the gap between the top of his back hatch glass and the frame is about 1/16" if that much.



On mine before the seal seperating, the gap was over 1/3"!!!!!



I think my frame is definitely warped some. I'll have to fix the frame before I put the glass on.



The glass guy will be out tomorrow am to pull the glass...



What's the gap on yours?

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[sasilverbullet]

Update...



First, here's a link to the pics of the whole before, during and after pics:

http://www.hoveymotorcars.com/968hatch/default.htm



One big revelation occured during this whole process. I didn't know that when you order a new glass hatch, it's the glass MOUNTED in a new frame! Now a lot of other problems make sense! The glass and frame are NOT designed to have the glass be removable. The type of sealant used and the clearances between the glass and frame make it almost impossible to remove the glass. Also the glass is not as thick as you think!



USAA still hasn't said whether or not they will pay the $7,000 (yes, that's seven thousand dollars) for a new hatch from Porsche. I'm a hoping and a praying they will. The car is worth $13K, so I think I'll be okay.



To everyone that have offered hatches, help, etc, thanks a bunch! Once again I'm so impressed by the way we P-car owners stick together to help one another, that always makes me proud to be one! I *might* still take one of you up on the offer, I haven't heard any chubby ladies singing yet!

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[flash]

i think, at at this point, i would be seriously considering lexan

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[TheMirror]

If your USAA agent will let you pick your own glass vendor, Sunset Imports in Oregon can get it to you significantly cheaper; just under $5000. Add shipping to that of course.

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[sasilverbullet]

Just got confirmation, usaa will pay for a new hatch!!!! COOL!



the mirror - i'll tell them about sunset imports...

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[flash]

quick - go kill a chicken

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[Eric_K]

I broke my hatch when I tried to remove the glass to install the lexan version. I don't feel so stupid since it happens to the pros too. The thing is held to the frame with about 3lbs of adhesive - literally. I filled a plastic grocery bag of glue scraps I scraped/grinded off the frame.



Glad insurance will cover it for you.

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