[MLB]

Hi, this is a topic that was well covered on the forum 5 and more years ago, and its clearly still of high importance in light of the failed condition of many (or nearly all?) owners' original wiring, not to mention the consequences of catastrophic electrical failures and shorts, which include cars starting by themselves!

But I dont think anyone has heard from or purchased cable sets from Robby in quite a few years, and now is the time for me to get this done, while my cylinder head and intake are out, and im waiting for the Stage 3 SC to arrive.

It looks like i will have to make my own cables, but i would like to know 3 things:

1. who can help with a materials list and dimensions? Ive read this forums posts and some on RL, and theres a lot of information, but im starting from scratch with none of the special tools likely to be required.

2. How many people would sign up for a group buy if the cost was no more than $300 for the kit? ( approximately Robbie's best price)

3. If a group buy looks promising due to response level, who can help me pull this off, and what is a smart way to ensure committments to buy, get materials, and coordinate purchases? (Im not a business person like Flash and some of you others)

Thanks,

--Michael

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[MCL968]

The smaller wires are really not that difficult to source or purchase. I bought an alternator to starter wire from Summitt Racing. It was heavier than stock and long enough to allow me to route it along the fender well to the top of the firewall and then down to the starter. I wrapped it in a fiberglass insulator near the exhaust header and it's worked great.

 

For the trigger wires that go to the alternator and the starter solenoid, they just required some splicing, soldering, and shrink tubing. I ran them up to the wire well that runs along the top of the firewall. One followed the relocated wire to the alternator, the other followed the alternator wire that goes to the starter. It was clean and far safer than running them under the intake where they are subjected to the hottest part of the engine and consequently more prone to fail.

 

As for the positive battery cable, mine was actually in excellent shape so I isolated it, added a layer of shrink tubing for some insurance, put it in a fiberglass sleeve and called it good.

 

Robbie and his predecessor liked to put fuses and breakers on the wires, and I really am not sure that such expense is justified in that if the wires are new, you don't need a fuse, and if the wires are old, you need new wires more than a fuse. The fuses are quite expensive and as I understand it, hard to locate.

 

Matt

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[Carl968]

I spoke with Robby back in 5/2014  and purchased a set of his cables.

 contacted him at      rkc951@yahoo.com 

Carl

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[wildcat]

I'm not familiar with this problem but I gather it has to do with alternator and starter.  Is this in addition to the wires that are in place or a "jumper" set to by-pass the factory wiring?  From the context that's expressed, a single wire from a set of "jumper" cables could be a partial solution. 

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[kwikt]

I got my alternator to starter wire from Pep Boys along with the battery to starter cable. Both are heavier guage than OE.

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[MLB]

Hey Carl, i've tried contacting Robby at that address multiple times since I bought the car 3 yrs sgo, but never got a response.

Okay, so maybe this is not so bad as a piecemeal DIY. I wanted to preserve the factory appearance as much as possible but the more I look at the bundled wiring the more of a pain I see that would be. So far I can simply confirm that the shielding on the main engine block ground from the battery is toasted and crispy. But the other cables inside the plastic sleeves I can't inspect without tearing it apart.

I'll check my local auto parts store for cables, as you guys are suggesting.

Thanks

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[Inkedupfatboy]

I just put new battery cables in last fall. Ordered them through Sunset Porsche. They came from Germany didn't take that long.

I tried contacting Higher Connections but never got any response. I had my guy put them in.

I still have the old ones and they basically looked fine. I saved them because they were the originals.

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[MLB]

Hmm, I was under the impression they were no longer available from Porsche. Can you look up the part numbers you ordered?

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[Carl968]

MLB don't know what to tell you.  I got thru but then had some trouble getting the kit after paid for.  All worked out in the end but more work than it should have been.  Don't know if it's appropriate to post his phone number here but I have if you want it.

Carl

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[MLB]

Hi Carl

Definitely no phone numbers please, everyone should have that level of privacy.

I bought the car as a fun hobby, and i enjoy tearing it apart and making it better. So these electric cables are just part of that process. I will come up with a good solution for my car. :0)

Theres more than enough info available here and elsewhere to get the job done.

Cheers

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[Inkedupfatboy]

I would love to..but having trouble putting my hands on the paperwork. It's not in my 968 book for some reason. Let me dig through stuff that needs filed and I will post the numbers. If I have to I can call Sunset and they should have them on file under my name.

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[MLB]

Hmm, PET illustration 902-10 shows


944 612 027 03 battery to starter (#22, manual)

Sonnen website shows this piece for @ $135


944 607 029 04 starter, generator (#23, manual)

Sonnen shows a price @ $47, but its discontinued

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[Ernie]

944 612 027 03 is the part number and I got one a couple of months ago from Sunset for @ $160 IIRC.

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[Inkedupfatboy]

I apologize. For some reason I can't find the receipts from sunset. I thought they were in the garage to be filed, but I can't put my hands on them. I suppose it is possible I left them in the box when I tossed it.

 

I just called sunset and said I needed battery cables for my '94 968 and they ordered them from Germany. They were a bit pricey as I recall.

 

It took a couple weeks to get them. Must have taken the scenic route to the US.

 

Sorry about that, but I did order them - the receipt from my mechanic for the install is dated 2/10/15 so I must have ordered them in Jan.

 

Good luck.

Ed

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[MLB]

No prob, Inked. I followed Ernie's lead and ordered the battery to starter harness from sunset, for $139.

That will be a good job done, and peace of mind.


Also found some of the "re-usable" firewall zip ties from Stoddard (P/N 443 971 850 A). They are 6.75" long (17 cm), shorter than the originals but long enough.

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[Ernie]

Nice score MLB, I paid $157.12 in October and havn't installed them yet. Happy to help!

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[Inkedupfatboy]

My guy is a savant as far as originality goes and was able to reuse my original ties.

He was even upset I wanted to add a few bolt on mods to the car.


I just need to sell it now that it's done.

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[MLB]

In my haste to get the New battery to starter cable connected, I guess I didn't pay close enough attention to how these parts originally went together. (Also I'm still a little uncomfortable working on things electrical, because they don't always make sense to me :0)

So, my recollection was that the big fat new positive lead from the battery which is the lowest one in this picture was combined with the thinner black shielded cable from the alternator and those go in the boot together, and ultimately connect on the largest post of the starter. Then the red shielded lead (i'm assuming red means positive here) from the alternator goes on it's own post on the starter.

This is one of those things that doesn't quite make sense to me because it seems I'm putting a positive and a negative lead together inside the boot. Shouldn't they both be one or the other? But I'm certain the red-shielded lead went to its own post on the starter solenoid...


   

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[Waylander]

the holes in the cable should be your guide

 

8mm for the big terminal and a 6mm for the solenoid power cable, think I have 3 on the big and one on the little

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[Westy]

Subscribed for reference.

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