04-01-2018, 01:09 AM
Hard to believe it's almost been almost five years since my son and I flew up to Portland, OR and picked up the 968. A nice Father-Son drive back with what was to be my retirement car. But along the way, I made a Deal with Chris that if he graduated college with a 4.0 he could have the car. Well, in May he graduates from Embry-Riddle Aeronautical College with what looks to be a 4.0 GDP. He hasn't forgot and is calling the 968 his car. With 160,000 miles it's still in good shape. No oil consumption but leak down is 140-150 per cylinder. Well, it's time to get the front suspension and engine to like new status. The rear was done two years ago and has only been driven 5,000 miles. So, new control arms, tie rods and struts will be put on along with repairing the P/S line leaks. On to the engine. Its been removed and the cylinder head surfaced and refurbished. I have a spare set of coated pistons and "H" rods to go into the balanced assembly.
The question is, ring replacement. So articles say just to put the new rings in if the cylinder walls are in good shape(they are) others say to scuff the walls with scotch bright pads and others say the only way to go is the sunnen paste. So I'm interested in what the majority feels works best. I'm leaning into just putting the rings in without prepping the cylinders. Anyone done it with success?
[attachment=15567:
IMG_1656.JPG]
removing the last stud for the replacement ARP studs
The question is, ring replacement. So articles say just to put the new rings in if the cylinder walls are in good shape(they are) others say to scuff the walls with scotch bright pads and others say the only way to go is the sunnen paste. So I'm interested in what the majority feels works best. I'm leaning into just putting the rings in without prepping the cylinders. Anyone done it with success?
[attachment=15567:
IMG_1656.JPG]
removing the last stud for the replacement ARP studs


