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Heater control valve woes
#1

I queried earlier that my heater was blowing hot without the switch activated. I had experienced the clip failure on the threaded rod positioned behind a removable cover to the right of the driver's knee some years ago. I had reattached the failed clip it with fine wire. This time I as I opened the compartment the small u-shaped sheet metal clip--I had apparently replaced it on the original fix--fell out. I reattached the threaded rod with fine wire. Upon driving the car, the heater came on and remained so until I reached my destination. When I restarted and drove the car home, the heater remained off. I hadn't touched the heater switch, which remained off. Great! Next time I drove the car exactly the same thing happened; the heater was on initially, off when the car was restarted.



Next I looked at the heater control valve, which I had replaced with a stock unit some time earlier. With the engine running, it did not appear to respond (close) with the switch off. At one point I did see it move as I turned on the heater switch and rushed around to. look at the valve. I next bought the suggested part-metal Audi heater control valve and installed it yesterday. As the vacuum hose teat on the Audi controls diaphragm was smaller that the Porsche version, I drilled out the interior of that piece on an old control valve, cut it off, and slid it over the metal teat on the Audi part. No problem. Originally thinking I might have to replace the entire vacuum hose to make it reach the Audi part, which positions differently than the original, I had unhooked the original hose where it runs below the front of the firewall behind the engine. It connects by a rubber sleeve to a greenish hose that dives down to the netherland behind the right side of the back of the engine. Since I found the original hose that I disconnected would reach the Audi valve, I simply reconnected it to the green hose. Incidentally, the newly removed Porsche control valve appears to function correctly.



With everything reassembled, I took the car for a drive with the heater switch off. I got heat. I then checked the function of the Audi control valve. It did not respond to the switch, suggesting the hose had no vacuum. I also viewed the threaded rod connection inside the cab and find it does not respond to the heater switch with the engine running. But there was a new gremlin, the car's idle now runs up and down and the car appears ready to stall at idle but drives OK. There is one other wrinkle. There is an electrical apparatus that mounts between the power steering reservoir and the engine head above the heater control valve. I found that this electrical bit had shed part of its plastic lower extremity exposing three (I think that was the number) small wire connections. I covered those connections with black rubber gasket sealant to seal them against arcing. I have no idea what the electrical bit does and whether I altered it's function. I suspect the heater control switch has failed. Thanks for your patience in wading through all of this.
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#2

i would say you definitely have a vacuum leak. if there is no vacuum to the heater control valve, it defaults to "on". random idle is also an indicator of a vacuum leak.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#3

I'm sure you are correct that this is a vacuum leak., but I'll need further help. I disconnected the vacuum hose at the firewall and attached an old but functional heater control valve to that hose. I then took loose the other end of the hose where it attaches to the installed heater control valve. Sucking on that hose--how else can I say it--operated the test valve at the other end. So I know the hose from the heater control location to the junction where it is sleeved to a green piece of hose is OK. Trying to follow the green hose downward and moving it about, I see a black rubber or plastic piece that has a crack that opens and closes as I gently manipulate the green hose up and down. This is a difficult to see and literally unreachable area directly below the engine lifting flange and a large corrugated sort of black hose that runs along the firewall in that area. I don't know if that is removable, as I can't identify it. Is it possible to reach this connection from inside the cabin? I have to assume the break is between the green connector hose at the firewall and the heater switch in the cockpit. Finally, is it safe to drive it the 20 or so miles to a professional garage, given the vacuum leak? The car runs well despite the idle problem, but I recall that vacuum leaks are a risk for valve damage.
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#4

a piece that has a crack in it? sounds like you found the problem



as for danger in driving, while a vacuum leak can lead to sucking down a valve, and can cause lean condition, if you are careful about throttle, and don't let it go to either extreme, you can get it to the shop without too much fear. basically use only part throttle, and try to keep the rpms as consistent as possible, and well below 4k, but above 2k while driving.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#5

I used a flashlight after dark to get a better look at what I said appeared to be a crack in a fitting on the hose running down behind the engine. Actually, what I see on the hose is a rubber elbow that goes into the firewall toward the cockpit. I believe there are two of these side by side, and that was the "crack" I thought I saw. Any idea how I can access this area from inside the car? I think I need to remove the heater switch panel, and I hope to locate where the hose picks up its vacuum. There is no connection to the engine from the heater control valve back to the green hose I have described, and I know that length of hose is OK. I see from my records that I had a similar issue with my early 944 years ago. This predated the vacuum heater control system and used a bicycles-like cable and housing, and I was able to solve it. I also found I have responses to my questions from Flash going back more than 10 years. Wow.
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#6

There is also a vacuum check valve on the firewall. What you need to do before pulling it all apart is use something like a Mighty Vac to test the vacuum circuits, if they hold vacuum then there is no need to dig into them.
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Current:
2016 Cayman S
Former:
94 968 Cab 6 Spd. Black/Cashmere D1R SC
86.5 928 Garnet Red Metallic
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#7

Bad weather has kept me from getting back to this problem, but I can advise that Clark's Garage Web site has a very detailed explanation with photos of the vacuum system. Basically, the two lines passing through the firewall, one coming from the heater control valve and the other from the engine vacuum source, meet behind the panel on the left side of the passenger footwell. A valve unit at the junction then appears to control the amount of vacuum applied to the heater control valve's diaphragm. As I recall, an electrical connection runs from the heater knob to the device that controls the vacuum line operation. Now to figure out why mine doesn't work. I believe the picture at Clark's is a 944, but I suspect the 968 system is identical. Early 944s used a cable system. I did identify the check valve banditsc mentions, or so I believe. Mine has a blue band around it. I haven't run a test on it, however.
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#8

You may recall I replaced my heater control valve with an Audi unit because the heater is staying on. I had already addressed the heater damper clip failure in the cockpit. The standard Porsche heater valve I removed appeared functional. Upon startup after putting in the new valve, I got a stumbling idle and no heater valve function. I posted this, and the response for the idle stumble was that I likely had a vacuum leak. I think that is correct. However, I had only worked with the line running from the fire wall to the valve. When I removed one end at the firewall and attached the old heater valve, I was able to draw a vacuum at the other end where it attached to the replacement by sucking on the hose. So that line seems OK. Next, I attached the old, functional valve to the hose at the firewall (the hose that runs into the cabin and is part of the heater on/off function). Upon startup the temporarily attached valve immediately functioned and then reopened. The idle was fine again. I now have a golf tee plugging the line at the firewall and a cable tie holding the Audi heater valve closed. I now suspect one of the related electrically operated valves/solenoids on the left knee position in the passenger space is not functioning. I think that will be exposed by removing the glove box. Any more thoughts?
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