[dlearl476]

Anyone know of a good source for a power steering cooler/return line? (#9)


OEM is $300+. Baring a much better deal, I think I'm going to remove it ant take it to Evco for a new end.    

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[Waylander]

that is basically your only option, or new

 

I have seen these spring leaks

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[dlearl476]

Mine just got old and started leaking at the reservoir. I couldnt tell if it was the cooler/return or the supply hose. Figured Id replace them both. I may just dremel off the rubber part and replace it with a hose and a couple of hose clamps.

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[Waylander]

It is the low pressure side so no real dramas, if it was the pressure side then not a hope of hose and clips, the system runs at 120bar or 1700 psi


You need to use R9 spec hose as a minimum rating

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[dlearl476]

I kind of hate to do it, but I’m going to just replace the end end with some standard PS hose and a plumbing reducing elbow. (I tried today and I can’t make the 90° without crimping the hose, and there’s a bit of reduction in the OEM hose) Luckily, the supply hose isn’t too expensive and should be a snap to replace when I have the belts done.

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[dlearl476]

OK, next question: Im reasonably certain my problems started when in a brain fog I topped up my reservoir with Royal Purple synthetic PS fluid from the OPepZone. So the first order of business when I get my lines replaced is a total flush.


Anyone got a step-by-step? I figured Clarks would have one, but for some reason, nothing is loading but the home page.

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[dlearl476]

I kind of hate to do it, but Im going to just replace the end end with some standard PS hose and a plumbing reducing elbow. (I tried today and I cant make the 90° without crimping the hose, and theres a bit of reduction in the OEM hose) Luckily, the supply hose isnt too expensive and should be a snap to replace when I have the belts done.

Im having existential crisis. I swear, the guy who built my Beck Spyder lived next door to a Home Depot. Ive spent the 5 years since I bought it slowly replacing the plumbing and cabinet hardware he used with automotive stuff, largely from my supply of spares from when I had my 912.


I searched up one side of the internet and down the other and couldnt find a 90° 1/2-3/8 barb fitting except in brass plumbing stylee.


I guess its time to harden the f*ck up and do what needs to be done.

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[snova]

so I have a leak in this assembly right near the P/S fluid tank.   It seems really painful to replace they entire cooling pipe just to fix a leak on the low pressure rubber side.   I noticed that there appears offering form SKP might be designed stick a metal flange into any remaining good portion of rubber house coming off of the cooling assembly. I guess then you can crimp the old rubber over the flange?  Or perhaps a hose clamp is good enough.  Thoughts?  Am I mistaken?   

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php...7378&jsn=1

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[tejon007]

I feel your pain too...having had to repair that hose also. My thoughts are to use the kit hoses and get a power steering (ATF) compatible hose of the correct inside diameter and use fuel injection clamps (not the ones in the kit) to connect the new hose to the existing cooler lines (remove any remaining old hose as it's perished for sure). Low pressure, but they do tend to leak.



Those are my thoughts and maybe worth nothing at all...good luck with the repair and please report back how it goes.

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[dlearl476]

I’m sorry I just left this thread hanging. In the end, my OEM reservoir was fine. I finally found the reducing elbow I needed on Amazon and replaced the bit I needed, and added an OEM reservoir to pump hose, then followed the factory bleed sequence two or three time to make sure all the synth fluid was out then fill the reservoir one last time and did one final bleed. 

 

I used Motul ATF. And that’s what I’ll use from now on. And I have a spare reservoir , should I ever need one.  

 

I don’t know if I ever posted my drama with Gates, or not. I poured over their hose catalogue for hours and found a hose that would have been perfect. The small side was too long, but it would be easy to cut. The fly in the ointment was that it was and OEM hose for some sort of tractor and Gates couldn’t/wouldn’t a) sell one retail, b) sell less than 100.  So I just patched hoses. 

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[tejon007]

Thanks for sharing.



Hate to mention it, but there's a filter inside that reservoir. It may hold on to some of the synthetic fluid still, so you may want to consider replacing it.



When I bought my 968, it came with lots of paperwork showing maintenance performed on it over the years. It documented a "new" power steering rack being installed just a couple months earlier. Well, the "new" rack soon failed. When I replaced it, it turns out it was a refurbished rack and they put hydraulic fluid (not ATF) in it which destroyed all the seals.

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[tejon007]

Just realized you performed that repair almost 2 years ago...so never mind about the reservoir. Probably a non-issue anyway.



However, attempting to fix a 968 with tractor parts?

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[tejon007]

Porsche schleppers (tractors):

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[snova]

I feel your pain too...having had to repair that hose also. My thoughts are to use the kit hoses and get a power steering (ATF) compatible hose of the correct inside diameter and use fuel injection clamps (not the ones in the kit) to connect the new hose to the existing cooler lines (remove any remaining old hose as it's perished for sure). Low pressure, but they do tend to leak.



Those are my thoughts and maybe worth nothing at all...good luck with the repair and please report back how it goes.

the original hose failure in my case is at the 90 elbow required to connect up into the tank.  Was that where your's failed as well?  Seems to me that is the part of the hose which is likely to fail for most people. I'm thinking is unlikely to fail in the straight portion as that's the path of least resistance compared to the elbow.  I'm waiting for the kit to arrive and I'll try to reroute the hose so the curve into the tank is a lot more gradual.  I hope I have enough of length in the kit hose to do that. 

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[tejon007]

Yes, that's where it failed. IIRC it splitfrom the end of the hose that connects to the reservoir and because the hose "necks" down from the connection at the reservoir, you can't just cut off the split part and reconnect...



Not really fair to complain as the rubber hose lasted 25-30 years before it failed.

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[snova]

Yes, that's where it failed. IIRC it splitfrom the end of the hose that connects to the reservoir and because the hose "necks" down from the connection at the reservoir, you can't just cut off the split part and reconnect...



Not really fair to complain as the rubber hose lasted 25-30 years before it failed.

yeah... the stock hose doesn't exactly have enough length to simply cut off the bad end and reconnect.  I way to replace that part of the hose is needed IMHO.

 

mine had a soft spot in the hose and eventually leaked. I am thinking it might be from age, moisture and heat from exhaust header being directly below.   Here is  my current plan.  I don't think I'm going to mess around with the metal flange that comes at the end of the kit hose. I'll just cut that off.    I think I'll cut back the original hose which is attached to the cooling pipe to where it is still good and insert a stainless steel 1/2" barbed to 1/2 NPT fitting.    In worse case scenario, I can cut the hose all the down to the length of the 1/2 barbed fitting, so that the inter portion of the remaining hose lined with mostly all stainless steel from the barb.  i.e use one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LDQ...UTF8&psc=1

 

The barb is long enough to make me feel comfortable with the seal. I'll also use this kind of pipe clips which give me some extra length pressure instead of worm drive host clamps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753Y...UTF8&psc=1

 

The kit hose, after I cut off the metal flange, I'll also insert a barb fitting but this fitting will contain a quick attach complier,  from this set.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F12...UTF8&psc=1

 

The other end of the quick connect set from the package above, I'll screw onto the NPT end of the barb fitting that I attach to the original hose. 

 

Doing it this way I'll be able to quickly disconnect the return hose from the tank.  I should be able to fill the tank to supply the p/s pump with new fluid while I pull vacuum on the return hose through that quick disconnect fitting in order to flush the old fluid out and fill the system with new fluid.   I'm not sure if the vacuum will be enough or if I will need to runs the ps pump from the engine.  Either way, I should be able to separate the new fluid from the old through that quick connect connection.     

 

I guess I could even buy 3 way valve manifold, however I think that would be overkill. lol.

 

thoughts? 

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[dlearl476]

However, attempting to fix a 968 with tractor parts?

A hose is a hose is a hose.  :lol:

 

The issue as you can see from the parts fiche is the “neck down” from the size of the reservoir nipple to the size of the hose. That’s what I was looking for in the Gates catalogue. I’m sorry I waited so long to post because now I can’t remember the details. IIRC, it’s something like 5/8 to 7/16. What I eventually did was find a 45° 5/8-7/16 brass elbow, cut the cooler line at the crimp with a dremel and connected ATF-rated hose from there to the elbow, to 2” of larger hose to the reservoir. All with Norma solid fuel injection hose clamps as Wallander mentioned. 

 

Something I meant to mention last night but forgot is the rock auto link @snova posted doesn’t appear to have that neck down in the return hose. I know pictures in the catalogue don’t match parts IRL, but that’s something to confirm before you order. A straight hose won’t fit on the reservoir nipple. 

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[dlearl476]

Hate to mention it, but there's a filter inside that reservoir. It may hold on to some of the synthetic fluid still, so you may want to consider replacing it.



 

Yeah, I was aware of the filter situation. In order to verify it was my hose was leaking and not the seam in my OEM reservoir, I filled it up with kerosene and let it sit on a paper towel for a couple of days. When it proved intact, I dumped the fluid out and it was pretty dirty. I did it a couple more times in between gently blowing compressed air through it until it came out clean, then finished it off with a round of Wurth parts cleaner. The filter was clean when I re-installed it. 

 

Probably a lot of extra work, considering a I had a new one sitting on the shelf, but I like that you can visibly check the originals with a glance, vs the black plastic or the aftermarket ones. 

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[dlearl476]

yeah... the stock hose doesn't exactly have enough length to simply cut off the bad end and reconnect.  I way to replace that part of the hose is needed IMHO.

 

mine had a soft spot in the hose and eventually leaked. I am thinking it might be from age, moisture and heat from exhaust header being directly below.   Here is  my current plan.  I don't think I'm going to mess around with the metal flange that comes at the end of the kit hose. I'll just cut that off.    I think I'll cut back the original hose which is attached to the cooling pipe to where it is still good and insert a stainless steel 1/2" barbed to 1/2 NPT fitting.    In worse case scenario, I can cut the hose all the down to the length of the 1/2 barbed fitting, so that the inter portion of the remaining hose lined with mostly all stainless steel from the barb.  i.e use one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LDQ...UTF8&psc=1

 

The barb is long enough to make me feel comfortable with the seal. I'll also use this kind of pipe clips which give me some extra length pressure instead of worm drive host clamps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0753Y...UTF8&psc=1

 

The kit hose, after I cut off the metal flange, I'll also insert a barb fitting but this fitting will contain a quick attach complier,  from this set.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F12...UTF8&psc=1

 

The other end of the quick connect set from the package above, I'll screw onto the NPT end of the barb fitting that I attach to the original hose. 

 

Doing it this way I'll be able to quickly disconnect the return hose from the tank.  I should be able to fill the tank to supply the p/s pump with new fluid while I pull vacuum on the return hose through that quick disconnect fitting in order to flush the old fluid out and fill the system with new fluid.   I'm not sure if the vacuum will be enough or if I will need to runs the ps pump from the engine.  Either way, I should be able to separate the new fluid from the old through that quick connect connection.     

 

I guess I could even buy 3 way valve manifold, however I think that would be overkill. lol.

 

thoughts? 

Those clamps give me what a buddy used to call “that lonely feeling,” aka Spidey senses going off. I used ABA SS solid fuel injection clamps because a) they’re serviceable with a screwdriver by the side of the road and b) I have a ton of them from my old motorcycle business. 

 

You can get them from CAP Hardware or Belmetric

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[dlearl476]

Anyone got a step-by-step? I figured Clarks would have one, but for some reason, nothing is loading but the home page.

This is what I did. Thanks to Tom951 on RL.

<p style="margin-left:40px;"> 

<p style="margin-left:40px;">Here's how I've done it:


1) On the bottom of the resevoir, pull off the hose coming from headlight area, attach a 5 ft. clear hose and place the end securely in a oil drain bin b/c fluid will shoot out of this hose once you start the motor.



2) Cap off the opening on the resevoir the hose was connected to.



3) Have a helper start engine and turn the steering wheel lock to lock while you pour fresh fluid into the resevoir. Once fluid going into the drain bin is clean, turn off motor.



4) Reattach hose & fill system.

 

Done.



Home Depot had the clear hose and a barb fitting to connect your hose extension to the existing p/s return hose. Best to have the front wheels off the ground.

 

 

 

Also, because I was concerned about the offending synthetic power steering fluid contamination, I over did it. I started with green Pentosin ATF, then did it again with red MOTUL ATF to make sure it was all out. (As best as I could) 

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