[snova]

 

 

Something I meant to mention last night but forgot is the rock auto link @snova posted doesn’t appear to have that neck down in the return hose. I know pictures in the catalogue don’t match parts IRL, but that’s something to confirm before you order. A straight hose won’t fit on the reservoir nipple. 

looks like the hoses in the kit are for a BMW E39/E46.    I believe change in rubber ID happens only in the suction hose that goes into the P/S pump via the Porsche specific hose. 94434744505.  Seen here:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php...7323&jsn=1

 

 

  The E39/E46 return hose doesn't seem to have a change in ID in the rubber portion.  The metal end on this assembly seems to be used for BMW's quick connect/disconnect for this this metal end attaches into the female side of the p/s/cooler pipe.     The rubber end that goes into the common ZF  P/S tank has a 90 degree elbow built into the BMW return hose.   You can see in the rockauto photo 7 or 7 in that kit.  Also, it can be seen in this youtube video at time code marker. 7:40 sec.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMKyeyxLviM.  I intend to reuse the BMW return hose, cut the  BMW quick disconnect metal pipe on this hose and replace it with my own standard quick connect components as shown in my previous post in this thread.

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[snova]

Those clamps give me what a buddy used to call “that lonely feeling,” aka Spidey senses going off. I used ABA SS solid fuel injection clamps because a) they’re serviceable with a screwdriver by the side of the road and B) I have a ton of them from my old motorcycle business. 

 

You can get them from CAP Hardware or Belmetric

I try not to use fixed length clamps anymore due to this thermal issue. Learned this lesson the hard in gas and liquid systems.  I figure there is some thermal things happening here too as there is a p/s/ cooler to deal with changes in pressure in the p/s system and the associated temps swings.  Having those p/s lines sitting over the exhaust headers doesn't help the situation.    To each his own.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxazYMD7a9s

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[dlearl476]

looks like the hoses in the kit are for a BMW E39/E46.    I believe change in rubber ID happens only in the suction hose that goes into the P/S pump via the Porsche specific hose. <a>94434744505</a>.  Seen here:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php...7323&jsn=1

 

No, it’s both of them. The return hose has one as well. 

   

Hard to see it underneath the hose clamp but this is the best actual photograph of one I could find. 

   

 

There are posts on RL about guys replacing the hose with a straight 3/8” hose and heating the end to slip it over the nipple, but that just means you have clamp the heck out of the other end which is ~1/4” IIRC. 

 

As for heat, I believe that what the spiral wrap is for. It’s easy enough to take it off your old hose and put it on the new one. 

 

 

eta: Something just occurred to me. It may be that the return nipple on the URO reservoir is smaller than the OEM one and a straight hose will work (if you can make it do the 90° bend without crimping) I don’t know as I used my original reservoir. 

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[snova]

 

 

eta: Something just occurred to me. It may be that the return nipple on the URO reservoir is smaller than the OEM one and a straight hose will work (if you can make it do the 90° bend without crimping) I don’t know as I used my original reservoir. 

It may be more likely the tank is same as OEM, but the return hose that BMW uses is 1/2" all the way through.

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[dlearl476]

Could be. 

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[Waylander]

power steering flush, how to from ZF

 

https://porschedocs.s3.eu-west-2.amazona...eeding.pdf

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[dlearl476]

power steering flush, how to from ZF

 

https://porschedocs.s3.eu-west-2.amazona...eeding.pdf

Excellent. Pictures help. Saved to my maintenance file folder. 

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[snova]

OK,  the kit from RockAuto came. 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php...7378&jsn=9

$43 + shipping

 

The two hoses supplied are are for a BMW E46.  I did't use the BMW hose which goes to the p/s pump. For that I ordered the part from Porsche as its formed correctly. However,  did use the BMW p/s cooler return hose from the kit  is 1/2" straight through.  This hose has the 90 degree bend in it going into the bottom of the p/s tank which has the same nipples a ZF unit.   I attached this end to the tank and clamped with a 10mm width by 18mm  spring hose clamp which expands or contracts with temperature around the hose.  At the other end I attached the female end of a 1/2" quick attach coupler which has a 1/2" barb end on it.  Around this barb I attached a pair of 10mm x 19mm spring host clamps 

The Quick attach coupler can be purchased here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F12...UTF8&psc=1

$14

 

This takes care of the tank connection and provides me with a quick attach that I can use to flush the p/s system.    The male end of the 1/2 quick attach in the $14 set above has a 1/2 NPT female end.    So to attach this to the 3/8" end of the Porsche hose that is crimped on to the p/s cooling pipe, I bought a 3/8" barb to 1/2 NPT male end. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075VG...UTF8&psc=1

$9

 

I secured the 3/8" barb to the Porsche 3/8 hose with a pair of 10mm width by 15mm diameter spring hose clamps.   Cut the Porsche hose back long enough to get the full barb length into the hose, with not too much length left.  Essentially the idea is the Porsche hose will be lined with the barb on the inside.  

 

 

 

Here are the results. 


OK,  the kit from RockAuto came. 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php...7378&jsn=9

$43 + shipping

 

The two hoses supplied are are for a BMW E46.  I did't use the BMW hose which goes to the p/s pump. For that I ordered the part from Porsche as its formed correctly. However,  did use the BMW p/s cooler return hose from the kit  is 1/2" straight through.  This hose has the 90 degree bend in it going into the bottom of the p/s tank which has the same nipples a ZF unit.   I attached this end to the tank and clamped with a 10mm width by 18mm  spring hose clamp which expands or contracts with temperature around the hose.  At the other end I attached the female end of a 1/2" quick attach coupler which has a 1/2" barb end on it.  Around this barb I attached a pair of 10mm x 19mm spring host clamps 

The Quick attach coupler can be purchased here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F12...UTF8&psc=1

$14

 

This takes care of the tank connection and provides me with a quick attach that I can use to flush the p/s system.    The male end of the 1/2 quick attach in the $14 set above has a 1/2 NPT female end.    So to attach this to the 3/8" end of the Porsche hose that is crimped on to the p/s cooling pipe, I bought a 3/8" barb to 1/2 NPT male end. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075VG...UTF8&psc=1

$9

 

I secured the 3/8" barb to the Porsche 3/8 hose with a pair of 10mm width by 15mm diameter spring hose clamps.   Cut the Porsche hose back long enough to get the full barb length into the hose, with not too much length left.  Essentially the idea is the Porsche hose will be lined with the barb on the inside.  

 

 

 

Here are the results. 

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[Waylander]

Constant pressure clips are the way to go, unless there is any pressure involved,

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[dlearl476]

Are those QDs Dry Breaks? That would be sweet for flushing as you would have to worry about plugging the return line on the reservoir, and with a spare end, you could make a drain hose that plugs right into to the cooler/return line. 

 

That’s a great idea. I wish I would have thought if it. I have a spare set of dry break QDs that I got for my Triumph fuel line recall. (I replaced the nylon ones with SS, so I just tossed the ones from Triumph in my tool box) They would have been perfect because one is a 90° and one is straight. The nylon would have been fine for ATF. (Ethanol fuel, not so much. Hence the recall)

   

 

Just found another link to it. When I did mine, I removed the whole rubber hose in the return line. Cut the crimp with a dremel:

   

 

Which leaves a standard tubing end with a nipple. Put the hose clamp on the upstream side of the nipple and Bob’s yer uncle. Whole 30 year old hose replaced. 

   

thx to Alex89 for the RL pictures. 

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[snova]

Constant pressure clips are the way to go, unless there is any pressure involved,

ANY pressure?  Perhaps you mean if the pressure exceeds the pressure of the clamp?    

 

 

https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/power-s...reservoir.

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[Waylander]

Cooling is only 15psi, thats pressure but not much, you cant use them on anything much more than that



Cant use them on 3-5 bar fuel lines for instance,

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[snova]

I guess we shall see what happens.   https://www.porscheatlantaperimeterparts...63909.html

 

I have a hard time picturing much pressure here.   If I understand things correctly, we have fluid entering the tank from the return line and then exiting back out of the tank via the suction line into the p/s pump.   I assume the relative pressure related to the diameter of the inlet vs the outlet ports on the tank.

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[Waylander]

Thats why constant pressure clips work well for this application

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[snova]

Thats why constant pressure clips work well for this application

thanks for clarifying.   Yes, so far things are working fine.  no leaks.

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[dlearl476]

thanks for clarifying.   Yes, so far things are working fine.  no leaks.

Good thing! Beats the heck out of tearing the whole passenger side apart to replace the $300 oil cooler, doesn’t it? 

 

ps: If you had any leaks previously, get a good degrease/steam clean under there. I didn’t think of it before the ATF destroyed my new sway bar and lower a arm bushings. 

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[snova]

Good thing! Beats the heck out of tearing the whole passenger side apart to replace the $300 oil cooler, doesn’t it? 

 

ps: If you had any leaks previously, get a good degrease/steam clean under there. I didn’t think of it before the ATF destroyed my new sway bar and lower a arm bushings. 

will do. thanks.

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