[Anchorman]

The best warning that I know of re the top failure is an increase in noise level. You don't have to snap a cable to break the bow. All that has to happen is the motors getting out of synch, putting uneven strain on the top structure. If a bow breaks, some have found used replacement parts. My bow broke in my second month of ownership, and I needed to get it fixed quickly, so I got all of the parts through me OPC and a local top/interior shop did the repair. In total, parts and labor came to nearly $1k. I've been on manual operation ever since.

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[KensCab]

If there is I would like a 'copy' Also...

Thanks

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[flash]

pay close attention when you are putting it up and down - any odd noises in the drive are not to be ignored - the top should go up and down evenly and smoothly - grinding or growling noises in the mechanism are signs of impending doom - if any of that happens - immediately put the top in manual mode and sort out the problem



if you have the top manual, read it - there are adjustments that establish the correct orientation so it will operate smoothly

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[KensCab]

Mine currently works flawlessly, no noise or indication of a problem...

But I think I'll take it to the 'Manual" mode as i put it up and down often, just to avoid the headache of a breakage !

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[flash]

mine is that way now because i am doing so much inside the car, and it goes up and down a lot right now, and i need to stop it half way to clearance check the roll bar and stuff - after i am done i want to restore it to power mode because it goes up and down too fast and i don't want to crease the window or the top, so i take care as it goes down to insure that everything lays down smoothly - still working out the wrinkles from when it was in the paint shop and in manual mode and up and down a couple of times without taking the proper care

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[KensCab]

Flash-

I'm soon having the top replaced (already have the 'factory'canvas top), should I leave it on power or go to manual?

Does it take more effort in manual to get it 'tucked' away when down?

(The car only has ~38.3k miles but it was an one-owner in Pheonix and the top is pretty faded is the reason to replace)

I've seen of the first 'sneak' photos of your project, The interior is awsomely striking IMO... georgeous!!!

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[92PSCab]

[quote name='WYLDCTZ' date='Feb 1 2005, 03:54 PM']Just thought I'd add to the history on the new site with info on my favorite 968 mod: Making your convertible top work even when the engine is running.



This was originally devised by memartin on 968.net, so I thought I'd give him his props...



How to bypass the dumbest idiot proofing ever on a car:

First, open your hood and find the fuse box. It is located pretty close to the windshield on the drivers side.

Find the G21 relay. (large square black fuse thingy)

Pull it out and find pin 6. This pin needs to be covered or disconnected somehow for your cab top to open and close with the engine on. Some people found that if they wrapped it in black electrical tape and reinserted the relay, that this worked. I personally could not get the tape to stay on when I reinserted the relay, so I just bent pin 6 to the side and put the relay back in. If I ever want to switch it back, I can just bend the pin back straight.



Some people actually have cut off the pin completely, but if you do that, then you have to replace the entire relay if you want to revert back to the stock configuration.



Thats all there is to it. Enjoy.



Mark (WYLDCTZ)



Here is some techy info posted by Techguy I found on how this all works...



----

The electrical system is composed of the fallowing components:

1.(2) roof actuation motors

2. A control relay for each of those motors

3.(4)limit switches (microswitchs)

4. Operation switch (center console)

5. Relay G21



A hard wire logic is established by the interconnection of the limit switches and the electric motor control relays. The limit switches detect the fallowing conditions:

1. Roof closed position

2. Roof open position

3. Roof locked

For example, if the roof is locked, actuation motors do not operate.



Relay G21 is the main control in this system. It is not a conventional relay with an inductive coil, this is a solid state relay (we can say it could be a small "ecu"). G21 decides if the roof can be actuated or not by means of a voltage (current) supply wire to the roof operation switch in the center console. G21 have the fallowing input signals:

1. Switched 12V+ (ignition switch)

2. Battery 12V+

3. Speedometer Signal

4. Ground (12V-)

5. 12V+ from the Fuel pump voltage supply line.



The logic programmed inside G21 is unknown. But based on what Bruce explain, when the engine is turned on G21 activate (enable) an interlock that prevents the roof to operate. Remember that a 12V feedback signal is received by G21 from the fuel pump. Taking the ignition switch to the off position must reset this interlock.

----

[right][post="67"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

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[Anchorman]

92PSCab - I assume you meant to do more than just quote the first post on this thread. If so, please try again.

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[92PSCab]

Rookie mistake. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> Just wanted to add to the accolades for this post as this was a most annoying "feature".

[quote name='Anchorman' date='Feb 17 2005, 10:20 PM']92PSCab - I assume you meant to do more than just quote the first post on this thread.  If so, please try again.

[right][post="906"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

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[924s]

I'm giving this a bumb - because I am going to do this mod over the weekend -

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[Stephenwz968]

Steve-



Awesome avatar!



Steve

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[gryphon]

I believe that my top broke from lack of use. I left it up for at least six months. When I actuated it, a cable broke. Regardless of how hot it is in Arizona, I now operate it at least monthly.



Tom

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[Rutger Gert-jan]

Hi,



I also did this mod. it works great, but my car still has to make a full stop before I can close/ lower my top... so the top can not be operated while moving....Is it just my car or is this normal?





Regards,





Rutger

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[flash]

hmmm - i never actually tried it while moving - not a good idea anyway, as the mechanism is so prone to failure, but i don't see why it wouldn't work - i can't imagine they tied it to the speed sensor, and i did not see any gravity devices in there (like on seatbelts)

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[Rudolf968]

I also did this modification a year ago and can confirm the findings of Rutger. It's seems like there is somewhere a speed-check. In the meanwhile I'm going manuel because of the failure of 1 electro-motor ( weared noise and blocking of the right autom. mecanisme)

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[flash]

interesting - looks like i need to do some research - i plan to delete the motors altogether, and now need to see where the wiring gets involved with the speed sensor

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[Anchorman]

According to an earlier post, relay G21 gets a speedometer signal to pin 3.

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[924s]

[quote name='Stephenwz968' post='41399' date='Sep 19 2007, 10:51 AM']Steve-



Awesome avatar!



Steve[/quote]





Thanks - Finally got around to creating one <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[924s]

Well on Saturday I go and open up the fuse box and go to the G12 area--



Look and there is no Relay :wow:



I took pictures - and wanted to post them here , but the site was down <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



I wonder why there is no relay? does anyone have the part # so I can order a relay.





This is how my top works - if the car is running and the top is down I have to shut off the car - pull the key - and wait for it to beep beep beep. then I can reinsert the key turn it to the AC position ... then the top will go up.



I wonder if this is because I don't have that relay, then I wonder why or who pulled the relay?



Any help on this is much appreciated

Thanks

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[Mark]

G21 not G12

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